billabong

[billabong]

000Robert wrote:

I’m going by what I was told. She can call it what she wants to.

Unfortunately the person who replied to my comment “under” the video is a WE representative, possibly not simply a “she” as you call it, but still unknown.

I get the feeling wherever I read your comments about WE product that you never admit that something can be improved and assume a role more like a salesman, I guess this is how you see the role of a Beta tester receiving free product?

Not to upset you, but it is obvious and thanks anyway.

 

They also said this It will take some time to get the new screws into production because we have to build a mold and get the parts running.

[billabong]

Marc H wrote:

The little white “keeper” balls need to be saved to reposition them whenever the ball-end guide rods are removed. These “keeper” balls hold the delrin pivot sockets in place so they won’t fall out and get lost.

Thanks for the great pic’s Marc, I was hoping to get a look at the parts close up. It’s a shame you can’t just use a longer screw to hold the cup part. I can see it would reduce the ability to achieve a lower angle though.

 

[billabong]

000Robert wrote:

But I do know that the hex end on the new guide rod tension screw and the slide locking screw will benefit many people.

I’m told here in the comments area of a WE video that a “Star Knob” will be implemented.

Quote: we have already identified a design change that we’ll be implementing which is to change the head to a star knob making it unnecessary to use a tool at all.

[billabong]

airscapes wrote:

I assume that part rotated in the housing if need be, have not taken mine apart to look at it, grease be it petroleum or silicone would cause the socket to “stick” in the housing but still move as it would be lubricated.. Not sure if that part is supposed to rotate but I assume not so sealant would be fine if that is the case.

It would be interesting to put a white dot of paint or similar on the edge of the “Delrin Pivot Race” (as WE call it) and watch when moving the arms to see if it actually rotates. My guess is that it does assist the process of smooth movement or else it could have been threaded and tightened.

And if it does, will lubricant be advised in the future?

A video here advises about the white ball.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/6Ya5hxxSnn0

 

 

[billabong]

000Robert wrote:

Did you not see the link for the article that I wrote on the WE60 above? Post# 58069.

Of course I did, perhaps I didn’t explain what I’m asking well enough?

Marc H wrote:

All I know is the original WEGO, (WE50) was an extruded base. This new WE60 is machined. The WE60 is a single, stand alone model, it is not upgradeable. Another, better optioned model, based around this compact WE60 format is slated for release this fall around Nov.

Having not looked at WE GO’s before and having an interest in the design and manufacturing of what is new from WE. I decided to go back and look at what you got with the GO50, to my surprise I felt the WE50 was a complete package and offered more than the new GO60 in some area’s.

So what was the motivation to change so much?

I can’t see an advantage with the new arm joints, I’m assuming this is a production cost saving? I mean now the arms are exclusive to the GO60 and you can’t use your longer one’s if needed from your WE130 etc. How long before those little white balls get lost in setup in the bush, obviously the tension screw will be upgraded to a Delrin Star Knob, so no screwdriver needed, a late improvement.

You get a bag tailor made to contain the GO50 but nothing with the GO60?

We get a jaw upgrade (fingers) but still the same basic animal, admitting that this (clamping) is still an ongoing problem with non-cam clamps.

I’m not sure what the GO50 retail cost was, but I assume the GO60 is no cheaper @ $275?

So I’m curious, why would I upgrade to a GO60? I can only wonder what the next models to come will be priced at, with a cam-vice upgrade. Considering that to purchase the latest gen vice alone as a part now is $240.

Just my thoughts, if I seem too critical with my questions here let me know and I’ll ask somewhere else. Thanks for your input.

[billabong]

Not having ever handled any WE GO, I’m curious, can I ask why the GO WE50 needed an upgrade to this WE60?

Is it cheaper to manufacture or smaller to carry or?

My inexperienced eye tells me it may be a backward step, be kind with your opinions please. 😉

[billabong]

tcmeyer wrote:

Wicked Edge either buys their rod-end couplings with a special stud mounted by the manufacturer or they very precisely fabricate studs of their own design. Try to fabricate your own press-fit version and take the risk of a too-tight fit expanding the spherical ball and increasing its friction within the coupling. A too-loose fit is likely to slip out of position.

Which is why I would start with a current Wicked Edge ball joint, because the mini “L” bracket is machined to fit it perfectly and have it replaced by a machine shop using the old stud for precise dimensions. Not like I’m talking hitting it in with a hammer after angle grinding a bolt down or something. A walk in the park for the right person with the right tools.

You seem to be offended that I doubt epoxy is a  good working solution, that’s not the case, it’s most likely what I will do. I’m thinking like a product manufacturer, would I glue it in if a press fit tapered stud was an option?

I would be very surprised if WE have a stud of this length made deliberately. History shows the past and present methods of locking the stud after adjustment have been hamstrung by the length. I guess we may never know?

Call me a dreamer!

Everyone likes good engineering.

 

[billabong]

NotSharpEnuff wrote:

Billabong, Here’s the link.

Thanks Ed, I didn’t realize that you remove the 1/2″ excess metal to obtain a thin adjusting nut, so nothing in stainless out there? I see why plastic is a better option for you.

Greatly appreciate you sharing the information, if I were in the US, I would simply order from you as freight is through the roof here now.

Not sure if I can find these parts in Oz and if McMaster Carr post to here. A bit more research needed I think.

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[billabong]

Thanks Tom, greatly appreciate your input here and love reading your posts throughout the forum.

tcmeyer wrote:

Rod-end couplings are available at my local farmer’s outlet for about $8US.

I have no problem finding Heim joints with a straight through 1/4″ hole, what I’m trying to establish is, can I avoid simply using epoxy to attach the threaded rod and replace that connection with a longer “press-in” stud? Like the original Clay supplied (in my upgrade kit) but longer, it is 1/4″ on one side (threaded) and larger on the outside end and tapered. I’m guessing Clay probably wouldn’t offer these Micro Adjuster Kits himself for that reason? Of course I may be wrong.

It’s the ball joints that Clay supplies that I can’t find on the internet. (see pics) This mainly applies to my situation using the WE130UP3 and “L” brackets, which are machined to be a perfect and close fit together. Of course I could buy the WEUP4 set and press the stud out, but I don’t need or want to pay for the extra alterations cost of adding a broached hole in the end and including nuts.

I can see that I will most likely fail in my quest to “press in” a longer threaded 1/4″ stud and adopt the epoxy solution like everyone else.

It’s my OCD guiding me here!

 

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[billabong]

 

Firstly I would like to thank you Marc for your detailed and informative posts and make it clear I’m no so much resisting simply buying Ed’s setup, just trying to feed my OCD at this stage!

Marc H wrote:

The Gen 3 model’s adjuster in your picture 01 is a two piece screw setup.

Ahh, that explains everything, so I guess Clay can’t find a way to extend the thread length by using a longer tapered “pressed-in” stud type ball joint either, simply not made?

I can’t even find out in the wild the ball joint Clay is using to see if I can press out the stud and press in a replacement re-manufactured longer one, of course there would then be no need to broach the ends as I would be using a fixed large knurled knob instead like you.

This is an issue that has haunted me since the original ball joint arms were released in 2012.
As my OCD also hated that the locking mechanism involved a threaded bolt screwed into the side of another thread.
Like a lot of people here, I have poured money into following the upgrades path as things were added, altered or adjusted.
I also hated how fidly the old clamps were to get a knife perfectly vertical and the level of grip strength obtained.
I was delighted to upgrade to the self centering clamp of today, great engineering!

Ed’s alternate solution being to J-B weld (something I have no previous experience with) a threaded rod into a smooth heim joint just seems a bit agricultural to an OCD like me, absolutely no offense intended, as it is working so well for everyone that has bought it and I will most likely end up adopting this solution also.
Of course I see the advantages of large knobs and locking nuts too.
I would be going with stainless knobs, no lock arm’s and put a dome nut (looks better) on the outside instead to lock the adjuster.

Being in Australia it’s a small market, the exchange rate and freight (scary) adds a lot more to the cost of any WE item purchased. There are only a handful of people (compared to the USA) that have a personal knife collection of substantial size to justify buying this level of sharpener as many “sweet” knives are simply forbidden to own. (IMHO)
My sharpener only has thirty odd (mainly kitchen) knives to look after now, so no Gen 3 Pro in my near future.
Although it’s very tempting.

Is it possible to buy the mini L brackets alone, thinking I would fit them with my longer rods/arms and simply swap out the whole assembly when changing lengths?

Ed, can you please link where you source the S/S 1″ Knurled Thumb Wheel Knobs?

Now to ponder with my thoughts a bit longer.

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Marc H

[billabong]

I guess I still have a couple of questions, initially one being in pic 01 below, this is a WE image of the latest Gen 3 Pro, is the threaded shaft all one piece?

If so, it may solve my problem of finding a longer threaded shaft for my WE130 mini L brackets, which appears to be much shorter.

Is the large adjuster on the end, threaded on or just a hex tool to adjust?

Obviously pic 02 is the supplied setup for the mini L brackets and available as a spare in pic 03 as WE-UP4.

Why not offer the ball joints from the Gen 3 Pro as an upgrade for the mini L’s if it is as it appears, longer.

Or am I seeing it all wrong?

edit – Of course I can go the path that Ed offers and may well yet.

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[billabong]

NotSharpEnuff wrote:

Billabong, Here is a pic of the ball joint parts from start to finish. Also, the Stainless knob process from cutting the barrel of and polishing it. It takes a lot of time and effort to make the SS knobs, that’s why I offer plastic knobs which work as well for a lower price. Ed K.

Thanks Ed, great pics, although I think you have posted the same pic twice?

I totally understand what is involved now and appreciate the time and effort involved.

Very impressive, quality looks great also, sent a PM for a brochure, thanks.

I would also like to thank you both (Marc,Ed & Tom) for the awsome amount of information you have added to this forum, I have spent the last few days catching up on everything I have missed since my time away.

Lot’s of valuable information and pics, great stuff from many members.

• This reply was modified 2 years, 4 months ago by billabong. Reason: Additional Comments!
• This reply was modified 2 years, 4 months ago by billabong.
• This reply was modified 2 years, 4 months ago by billabong.

[billabong]

Marc H wrote:

After looking at your photo of the “enclosed ball end joints” it appears to me that part would not have the right properties for the functions we are needing.

I agree, it doesn’t lend itself to the modification we are talking about here, no ability to replace the threaded shaft like Ed has achieved, great if a longer threaded rod could be attached perhaps?

Although I can assure it is a very smooth and precise ball motion perfect for this application, although with limitations.

I have attached a pic of an exploded view.

 

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Marc H

[billabong]

Marc H wrote:

I’ve been never seen that style ball ends. I’ve been using W.E. systems since around 2016…those parts appear to predate my experiences.

I bought most of my stuff in 2012 and did a WE130UP3 in 2019.

Not to mention the many different length rods I had made and experimental adjustments etc. (like most here)

The covered ball joints are still a current item, just hard to find in the US. (I’m in Australia)

I had to get the allen key holes broached in the end by a shop.

Clay said he was going to get some and trial them, but never heard what the outcome was.

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[billabong]

NotSharpEnuff wrote:

Then I cement them into the ball joint with JB weld.

I would love to see a pic of the rod (end) separate from the ball joint, prior to install.

Is it a tapered fit or other?

I would love to be able to go back to these ball joints I used years ago.

I thought I might take the black boot off my enclosed ball joint, which is factory filled with grease and post a couple more pics to show the range of motion they have, it goes back on easily enough.

Thinking it now may be possible to cut off the thread, then drill and tap into the ball to then attach a longer threaded rod to gain the required length to put an adjusting nut on the back?

 

 

• This reply was modified 2 years, 4 months ago by billabong.

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