cbwx34
@cbwx34
active 1 year, 3 months agoForum Replies Created
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So… it worked… but I couldn’t log in… it just said userpro=login or something like that.
Now I can login… but the page once again doesn’t load.
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Ok… been that way since the upgrade… it’s never loaded. (I’ve tried many times).
Also, I click on any users name to see their profile… it says… Page Not Found.
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So, I try and click on links to other pages… like from that post I created yesterday, and I get this…
…. just me?
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Hopefully, the enlightenment you seek will be found here…
(Page 6 about 1/2 way down, if the link doesn’t take you there directly).
p.s. Page 12 has the pictures and info I believe tcmeyer is referencing (info actually starts on p.11).
(That whole thread is worth a careful read).
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I did a bit of a cost comparison between the KME and the Wicked Edge HERE, mainly because a lot of people see the W.E. as “so much more expensive” than the KME. It’s really not. Although the comparison was with the W.E. Go, its similar with all models… you may pay more initially, but you get more.
Both are good sharpeners. I think a lot of it boils down to how much you plan on sharpening? With the W.E., you pay more up front, but you get more that will last longer. If all you have is a few EDCs and sharpening isn’t a priority, the KME is up to the task. But when you start making statements like, “I do plan on sharpening for friends and family a lot….”, then the upfront investment in the W.E. will pay off, and makes the overall cost a non-factor, IMO. (Not saying which one you should get… just a little more info you might find helpful in deciding).
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I would call W.E., and see if you can get a replacement set of 100g diamond stones from them, (without buying a new handle set).
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I’ll throw in my .02… fwiw….
200/600 is a great “2 step” sharpening combo… and meets the purpose that Clay mentioned earlier… coarse stone to shape an edge, and a fine stone to refine it a bit… quick and get back to work. The basics of most sharpeners uses this simple 2-step process… which is what I thought the intention of the Go was. 200/400 is too close to be beneficial. Some of you are basically “building” what is already available, and trying to make a sharpener that will do it all. Give the 200/600 combo a try on a few knives, and I think you’ll start to realize its potential. Keep in mind that you’re not always looking to obtain the “best” edge, and you’re not trying to necessarily remove all the 200g with the 600g… just an edge that is shaped, refined a bit, burr free, and will do the job. If you need more than this… there are other models for that. Not to say you can’t get the Go, and build on it if you want… but it shouldn’t start out that way. (Heck, I’d even do a 100/600… depending on the condition of the knives I mostly saw…).
Magnets… use the magnet to hold the stone to the blank… but not to hold the stone in place. It doesn’t need to be very strong to do this. Even with the current WE stones… with the raised edge all around the stone… one or two “low power” magnets will do the job, and will reduce the chance of the buildup of filings, etc. If you’re prying stones off with a screwdriver, having to slide them off, etc…. too much. (But please, if you do a redesign… get rid of the lip….. it’s like the bezel on a cell phone)…..
Willis68… probably hit the nail on the head… in one sentence.
I’ll give you 3 that I see “go wrong” in the forums…. 🙂
- Start with a “practice knife”, not the one you care about above your first born.
- Mark the edge with a Sharpie, match the angle already on the knife, and learn the dynamics of the sharpener (like angle change…. ). In particular, where to position the knife in the clamp front to back. Mucho important, (and as is repeatedly shown… a bit counter-intuitive).
- In other words, don’t make your first sharpening a major reprofile job… you’ll get frustrated and probably mess up the knife. (I see this a lot).
- Don’t let the stone rotate around the tip… you’ll sharpen it off or alter the blade profile.
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I would mark it with a Sharpie, and check both sides first. Many new knives look like they have a nice even bevel… few actually do. And even if they are, most will benefit from a bit of a regrind,,, even if slightly lower.
But, if they are even, and you just want to touch it up… I would still start around 600g (maybe lower)… just to “set” the edge for the Wicked Edge (if that makes sense), and even out the grind marks, etc. (Few knives will match another sharpening method perfectly, regardless of how it’s done).
That picture was for a different test, but does support the point (man, you keep stuff better than I do haha).
This picture is what I did, when I didn’t believe it (I sent it to him too)…
… apparently, he wasn’t swayed.
I actually emailed him after the first video he did… and he must have read it, ’cause he referenced it in the above video… then dismissed it as people not knowing what they’re talking about.
Snecx, your video is good, and I understand it… problem is, a person who believes that the angle does change, will interpret it as, by not rotating the angle gauge, you’re moving the pivot down the edge (like it’s on a rail). I know that’s not the case, but am betting that’s the response.
I really think Clay should contact him… since it might be beneficial to get it straight from the source… especially a source he says is wrong. I doubt he’s gonna listen to anyone else. If he actually ground a little on that steel he put in for the demo… he’d see there’s not a 6˚ difference.
Oh well, time will tell I suppose………
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