CAWalter
@cawalter
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03/29/2012 at 2:08 pm #2304
razoredgeknives wrote:
“Did you tap the joints yourself and put in the allen screw or do you have those screws going into a nut on the other side?”
Clay did the modification on the arms of my WE.
I tapped the joint. Am going to play with using nuts too, to see if is easier.[/quote]
keep me posted…. what size screws do you recommend to fit through the existing hole?[/quote]
As I had mentioned in an earlier post, 5-40 is the same diameter as the existing hole and if you buy them long enough in an Allen head there will be an unthreaded portion for the arm to ride on. Cut off the excess. I used 4-40 nyloc nuts tapped to 5-40, just because they where smaller, but work perfectly for the job.
CAW
02/27/2012 at 2:33 pm #1790Due to the arm’s tab width I stayed with the .125″ hole and use a 5-40 bolt with enough unthreaded shaft to ride on, and a nylock nut. The tab thickness tapers, so that was squared up. Now there isn’t any play and the action is smooth. Haven’t addressed the paddle to arm, but reaming the paddle and pressing in a bronze bushing would do. Not going there for a while as it really is very little. 😛
CAW
01/14/2012 at 1:01 pm #1361Same here and sanded part of the tray off to the stone edge on the 400 & 600 just to keep this area even with the rest. Could do it to all the stones, but 600 in that first 1/8″ seems to be fine.
CAW
01/06/2012 at 3:00 pm #1298I find the left to right to be spot on, but if and only if the base is level to the angle finder. If the base is sitting off 1 degree, you will see two degrees difference at a setting that may well be balanced.
CAW
10/13/2011 at 4:19 am #672Due to our increased awareness from using this, we become more critical. That’s good. What I find true is the balance between a tool that cuts to the shoulder and finger safety. Products need to take that into consideration. The stone edge is held back from the paddle edge so we don’t swipe across with a finger pad bulged over the edge onto the blade. Ouch. I ground about 1 1/2″ of the plastic off to the stone edge on a couple of the stones just so I could concentrate on the edge in this area.
CAW
10/02/2011 at 6:09 am #58910/01/2011 at 4:39 am #575It is correct that the edge profile needs to be re-profiled from the factory grind. They very a lot.
This may help to understand that clamping in the middle doen’t necessarily give you what you want.
A little learning curve in using this sharpener. But worth it.
CAW
09/30/2011 at 3:50 am #552The Spyderco Honeybee, held by the jaw tips did a great job.
CAW
09/14/2011 at 8:55 am #389FFG blades will clamp vertically by using an 1/8″ strip of double stick foam tape on the top of both jaws. I use 3M VHB 3/4″X .045″ thick. This really works surprisingly well. My thumb screws tighten and hold fine in the dimples however, not sure of the problem, perhaps the screw end isn’t mating well with the dimple.
CAW
09/06/2011 at 7:29 am #322The instrument measures angular displacement from a reference, in this case the angle of the stones with respect to the vertical line that runs from the edge of the knife through the spine.
There are a number of different makes of inclinometers, but all should be able to be set/adjusted to zero. Using one on the stones/paddle gives an indication of balance in the set-up. We might assume the blade is vertical in the jaws, but should really check that first, as it is tightened. I simply use a square with folding knives, and check both sides of the handle when folded at 90 degrees to the blade, against the base. This gives a fairly good indication that the blade is vertical. Additionally the inclinometer can be held against both sides of the blade itself to check for an equal number. Make sure the base reads zero, or is level. Then of course the bevel can still be off it we don’t pay careful attention when stoning to keep the margin relatively equal. The WE does give the OCD a great opportunity to exercise itself.:lol:
CAW
09/05/2011 at 6:40 am #304The degree markings should be equal distance from the base. My 15 degree mark is 1/2″ from the blue base on both sides. The thumb screws do come loose sometimes, make sure you tighten in the dimple. Check from time to time. As said for FFG blades you can use a strip of double stick foam/gum tape at the top of the jaws to hold vertical, check your set-up.
CAW
09/03/2011 at 2:57 am #277FWIW, I’ve just been using the cheap white foam double sided tape (not removing the side facing the knife) that you get at a grocery store (no particular brand). Seems to work great for me, and I use very thin strips (say 3/16″).
That’s the same stuff I’m using (Scotch Brand – made by 3M) and it works great. We have a lot of the VBH here, used to bond the diamond stones to the paddles, awesome stuff depending on which formulation you get but WAY too sticky to be used that way, too much work to peel it off the jaws afterward.[/quote]
That hasn’t been a problem for me at all. The 3M VHB, 1″ wide and .045″ thick cut an 1/8″ long or so and going across the jaw at the top comes off quite easily. It will most often come off on the blade and then just roll an edge and come right off in one piece. I put the ones that haven’t stuck to themselves on the base and reuse. When this material compresses it gets out of the way at a point, but is also firm in the void areas. tightening so the jaws are parallel assures the jaw tips are equal. A variety of resilient materials will work as well.
CAW
09/01/2011 at 1:59 pm #239:blink: Oops, i believe you are correct it is VHB (very high bond) and yes it is not a foam, but more plastic, gel,gum like. Actually thickness without the release measures,.045″. You found it despite my poor description.
CAW
09/01/2011 at 11:30 am #235With the 3M XHB tape I am using I do remove the release. The strips can sometimes be used again, but doesn’t really matter as it holds the blade really firm and is easy to get the blade vertical in the jaws with this set-up.
CAW
08/31/2011 at 1:33 pm #226The best trick to clamp the FFG blades such as the Spyderco Military is to use a narrow strip of 3M double stick the stuff that’s about 1/16″ thick. Cut a strip 3/32″-1/8″ and stick it at the top of each clamp jaw. A little care in getting the blade vertical as you tighten the top and then the bottom till the gap is parallel. Very solid and doubles to not mark the blade. Sometimes I fold the handle vertical 90 degrees to the blade to check the set-up with a square on both sides of the handle. The double stick idea came from Clay and the really nice young lady that answers the phone, very knife knowledgeable.
CAW
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