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Viewing 15 posts - 61 through 75 (of 490 total)
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  • #1225
    TonyJ
    Participant
    • Topics: 2
    • Replies: 7

    I found them a while ago after having bought some blank paddles and tape (well before my WEPS arrived) probably from the same place you did. Never tried this store myself, but they seem to be the cheapest I could find at the time.

    I have never tried the tapes yet but might today and compare them with the strops. I am still toying with the idea of getting the 15k/30k Shaptons as I have 220, 1000, 4000, 8000 and 16000 Shapton glass stones which I love and will end up getting a 30000 Shapton glass as well

    #1229
    Scott Babineaux
    Participant
    • Topics: 4
    • Replies: 80

    This is the progression I am currently following.

    Stone Microns
    100 Diamond 122
    200 Diamond 69.5
    400 Diamond 22
    600 Diamond 16
    800 Diamond 12
    1000 Diamond 7
    1,200 Ceramic 5
    1,600 Ceramic 2.85
    Polishing tapes 1

    Question:
    Assume that you keep the knives and stones clean of all dust and grit from the various stones. What would I gain from the Chosera or Shapton stones other than getting to 0.48 microns? The same question goes for the strops and compounds? The ceramics are equal to or finer than the stropping compounds so what other benefit is there?

    #1234
    TonyJ
    Participant
    • Topics: 2
    • Replies: 7

    I tried the 1 and .3 micron lapping film yesterday. Great edge and finish.

    I don’t have a definitive answer to your question. It seems logical to suggest that grit is grit and that if you get there with ceramics or whatever then the result will be the same. However when you start talking about stones/films and strops then there are variables such as surface flexibility and pliability to take into account.

    I too would be interested in an answer.

    #1235
    Scott Babineaux
    Participant
    • Topics: 4
    • Replies: 80

    Hence, the reason for forums….dialog.

    I agree that there are other factors other than grit alone, that’s why I’m asking for input from the more knowledgeable forum members.

    #1236
    wickededge
    Keymaster
    • Topics: 123
    • Replies: 2939

    I think the concept that “grit is grit” is essentially correct. I would add that hardness and friability of grit are important factors in determining the depth of the scratches and how those extend out to the final edge as teeth. Some abrasive manufacturers actually rate their products with an AR (average roughness) scale to describe the peaks and valleys of the surface rather than the particle size. Other factors are the substrate pliability which can mitigate the effects of super hard abrasives like diamonds and can also modify the geometry of the edge, providing curvature. Additionally, leather has the very unique function of burnishing; smoothing the surface of the steel through plastic deformation. I’d translate all that to say that grit for grit, the scratch widths should be the same, the depth will vary based on hardness and friability of the abrasive, giving the final edge more or less teeth. A flexible substrate like leather will give curvature and only leather or super hard, super smooth metal will burnish the surface. The leather with a good micro-abrasive is an unbeatable finish IMHO for most applications except when you want a very toothy edge.

    -Clay

    #1958
    Jamie Baldwin
    Participant
    • Topics: 6
    • Replies: 31
    #1959
    wickededge
    Keymaster
    • Topics: 123
    • Replies: 2939

    These look great, thank you for posting them! I hope you don’t mind that I posted them to our Facebook page.

    -Clay

    #1960
    Jamie Baldwin
    Participant
    • Topics: 6
    • Replies: 31

    Hey Thanks Clay ! I don’t mind at all if you use the pics. I’m learning how to polish the blades , but not up to the standards as some on here … hint hint but I’m working on it.

    #2080
    wickededge
    Keymaster
    • Topics: 123
    • Replies: 2939
    #2288
    wickededge
    Keymaster
    • Topics: 123
    • Replies: 2939

    I had a great time making snacks and taking photographs of this sharpened knife. Edge angle is 20 degrees per side, finished at .5 microns with diamonds on leather strops. Steel is AUS-8.

    -Clay

    #2311
    wickededge
    Keymaster
    • Topics: 123
    • Replies: 2939

    Here is a Wicked Edge sharpened knife photo sent in by Brad Lawson:

    -Clay

    #2847
    wickededge
    Keymaster
    • Topics: 123
    • Replies: 2939

    Here are a few of the mule from Farid, made of CPM REX 121:

    The effect with the one above is really cool – it looks like there are big chunks missing from the blade. It’s actually just the way the finger grooves come up to meet the edge and are reflected.

    This last image isn’t super impressive, but I like the look of it with the steel dust and soft reflection. This is just after the 600# diamond stones.

    -Clay

    #2848
    Leo James Mitchell
    Participant
    • Topics: 64
    • Replies: 687

    Yikes! Those are spectacular shots of that highly reflective edge you put on the Farid blade! I can’t believe it took only 4 minutes to raise burrs on that formidable steel edge. I look forward to getting my folder from Farid hopefully sometime in May. Who knows?! He is very mysterious about his work flow so one never knows. 😉
    You are up late tonight boss! Can’t sleep? Me too! 😆

    Cheers
    Leo

    #2849
    wickededge
    Keymaster
    • Topics: 123
    • Replies: 2939

    Thanks Leo. I was just up a little late waiting for Kay to get back from chorus and thought it would be fun to post some pics from the week. I was actually inspired after reading Rlb’s post and seeing his pictures here: Mirror Edge PM2

    -Clay

    #3116
    wickededge
    Keymaster
    • Topics: 123
    • Replies: 2939

    Just finished a batch of Kershaw blades:

    Reprofiled them all to 15° per side, polished them to .25um Diamond on Kangaroo strops.

    -Clay

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