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Spine Angle

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  • #30311
    Sharp1
    Participant
    • Topics: 2
    • Replies: 1

    Good evening all,

    I am starting to appreciate the impact of placement of the blade forward and back, but find myself wondering about the angle of the spine relative to the edge.  The instruction seem to suggest that the spine should always be flat against the guide pins.  This seems unnatural to me as the edge may then be tilted up or down.  This seems like it would result in an uneven bevel (particularly at the tip of a drop point).  So should I attempt to keep the long edge of the blade perpendicular to the base even if that means pivoting the spine up on one guide pin.  Does that make sense? Is this approach correct?

    #30315
    Anonymous
    Inactive
    • Topics: 14
    • Replies: 427

    the placement of the blade does not mean it has to sit on both pegs,. Its not the law.. those guide pegs are just a reference..  the higher the blade sits in the jaws, the more acute the angle is. The angle cube is the last word in the actual angle.  here is an example.. set the blade in the vice and set the paddles at 20 * degrees. raise the knife in the jaws and the angle will decrease. lower the blade and the angle will increase.  placement of the blade  in the same spot is for repeatability placement of the knife forward or back from the center line is critical to sustaining the angle throughout the stroke. illustration of this is found in the manual, showing how the knife does not have to be parallel with the base .

    4 users thanked author for this post.
    #30321
    Josh
    Participant
    • Topics: 89
    • Replies: 1672

    Bill’s got it exactly right. I haven’t used my depth key in years.

    #30322
    tcmeyer
    Participant
    • Topics: 38
    • Replies: 2095

    I have a bunch of low-cost, el-cheapo folders I use around the house.  Early on, I decided to settle on a single set-up for all of them, so I wouldn’t have to look up each one in my log-book.  I use the top position of the key, the spine of each knife held tight against the two key pins and with the bolster pressed tight against the near face of the vise.  I don’t have to think about the correct position – it’s always the same.  The angle is always 20 dps.  Saves a lot of time.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #30323
    Geocyclist
    Participant
    • Topics: 25
    • Replies: 524

    Good question.  Pros for using the depth key: you have a repeatable reference on how deep the blade sits and also if you put the spine against both pins or not.  I started out keeping the flat part of the edge parallel to the base => so it may or may not sit on both pins.  For some knives it makes since to tilt the blade to make it easier to get the sweet spot without having to position the blade too far reward in the vice.  Cons: some blade shapes work better with manual placement.

    I would say keeping a log has worked well for me.  I don’t track the junker knives, but all the rest I do.  It makes touch ups much easier to reposition the same way if you have good notes.  Also I can’t always remember the angle it was sharpened at.  It’s nice to know this especially when the blade doesn’t perform as well as I like and the angle needs to be changed.

     

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    #30331
    Anonymous
    Inactive
    • Topics: 14
    • Replies: 427

    The concept of sharpening as knife is not brain surgery. There are a few tricks. but for most, any angle can be made sharp because the WE design takes all of the free hand variable angles out of the process… one of the tricks is the pressure use in the stroke. toward the end of the process the touch is more critical. Attaining the first burr can be done with any pressure. but as the edge becomes defined, and the level of pressure relates more to the visual flatness of the scratches as the smoothness is adjusted by finer and finer stones.

    Finding that sweet spot can easily be attained using that trick Josh showed in a Vid, where he put a piece of tape on a paddle to set the sweet spot of the knife within the vice.  using the tape to visually see just how the stroke  impacts the edge. from front to rear.

    I don’t for one minute, profess to be an expert, but the learning curve comes very quickly with a few tricks. The WE itself makes sharpening a knife very easy, if you understand the concept… Once the knife is set correctly within the vice, the only variable is the amount of pressure used, and the number of strokes necessary to get the edge to the next level. I’ve taken a knife to 600# grit ( toothy edge ) and cut a tomato so thin (.005 inch ) you could see through it.  The blade edge never slipped off the tomato. Moving the edge to the next slice was very positive. almost like the knife stuck to the skin when I placed the knife on the next position using my fingers as a slicing guide. A non toothy edge could move slightly when placed on the skin.

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    #30364
    Mark76
    Participant
    • Topics: 179
    • Replies: 2760

    A non toothy edge could move slightly when placed on the skin.

    I happened to write a blog post on this: https://moleculepolishing.wordpress.com/2015/06/26/will-a-knife-with-a-polished-edge-cut-a-tomato/

    😀

     

    Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #30382
    CliffCurry
    Participant
    • Topics: 42
    • Replies: 461

    I seem to remember talk about a transparent grid in the works to mark tip position for repeatability?  That always seemed like a great way to get the knife clamped the same way…

    #30386
    Anonymous
    Inactive
    • Topics: 14
    • Replies: 427

    there is already a position gage to set the front to back placement and log the position into your data log …the position gage sits on the two pins of the depth gage. Both pieces came with my WE pro II.

    #30387
    Anonymous
    Inactive
    • Topics: 14
    • Replies: 427

    A non toothy edge could move slightly when placed on the skin.

    I happened to write a blog post on this: https://moleculepolishing.wordpress.com/2015/06/26/will-a-knife-with-a-polished-edge-cut-a-tomato/ ?

    This is what I found, my personal experience.. when you have a seriously sharp knife, without toothiness, the knife has to be exactly 90 * degrees to the cutting surface… if the knife sits at a slight angle, it will rest on a slippery smooth side that was mirrored and with a slight adjustment of the slice angle it will be 90* degrees and will slice through anything like butter…. again this is my experience, Not to be confused with someone who actually knows something about this system.

    with a toothy edge ( that is sharp ) no matter if the cut angle is slightly off by a few degrees, the toothiness will stick the edge to the tomato or what ever you are trying to cut.. With a mirrored edge, it  is much less forgiving, ( my experience ) . I can take a toothy edge and not be as concerned about a perfect 90* degrees plus or minus 1 degree.. Where as, a toothy edge will engage at 90 * degrees Plus or minus 5 degrees, making a ten  degree deviation a non issue. A mirrored edge has to be more perpendicular to the cut than a toothy edge.

    Let me give an analogy… if you have ever tried to open a clam or oyster,, the knife has to be “exactly” 90* degrees to the opening or the knife wont go in..

    opening a clam is like using a mirrored edge.. it works like magic if you have the knife exactly 90* degrees to the cut. turn that knife one degree and it wont go in. the clam.

    Just my insight.. not to be confused with actual science…although the math is good.

    #30393
    wickededge
    Keymaster
    • Topics: 123
    • Replies: 2938

    I seem to remember talk about a transparent grid in the works to mark tip position for repeatability? That always seemed like a great way to get the knife clamped the same way…

    We’re still working on that. Our mfg partner that was helping us with it imploded last summer, so I’ve got to source a new supplier.

    -Clay

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #30427
    tcmeyer
    Participant
    • Topics: 38
    • Replies: 2095

    I keep a set of clamping dimensions in my sharpening log spreadsheet.  Except in the case of large belly curves, or where there is no spine to speak of, I try to always use the two pins (upper or lower) as a fixed reference.  Then I record the distance from tip to the face of the clamp in millimeters.  This makes for an absolutely repeatable position.  For those large sweepers which don’t allow for use of the pins, I may actually place my Anglecube on the edge at the heel. With the tip dimension, this comes really close to providing a physical reference. I also take a quick digital photo, taking care to include the key reference points.  I may include in the photo the Anglecube. showing its position and its readout.

    #30446
    Anonymous
    Inactive
    • Topics: 14
    • Replies: 427
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