Pro pack II set screws
Recent › Forums › Main Forum › Suggestion Box › Pro pack II set screws
- This topic has 128 replies, 20 voices, and was last updated 01/01/2013 at 12:46 pm by Chris.
-
AuthorPosts
-
10/29/2012 at 3:22 am #6703
Greetings,
I received my pro pack II a couple of days ago. I need Clay to address an issue I’m having. The original angle arms have set screws that are rounded on the end allowing them to set inside the pre-drilled angle indention’s. The new pro pack two set screws are flat on the ends and doesn’t allow for a proper angle adjustment. I tried using the old set screws with the new arms but they are too big. Do you offer the set screws for the new pro pack with rounded ends?
I have attached a pic for reference.
Help because I want to get back to sharpening!
Thanks Clay
10/29/2012 at 3:33 am #6705Hi Toney,
Thank you for writing. We’re hearing about this with last batch of upgraded arms we went out. Our machine shop took the liberty of switching the screws without notifying us. They should be #10-32 Stainless Steel Socked Head Cap Screws with a Knurled Head that have been lathed to a conical point. Instead they sent #8-32 screws. We’re working with them to rectify the situation ASAP. I should have more answers on how to proceed to replacing yours tomorrow.
–Clay
-Clay
10/29/2012 at 4:31 am #6707I had the same problem with one of mine, thought it was a problem with the tap job for the angle arm unit at first till I switched screws with the side that was ok. Got a machine screw from hardware store to stabilize it. Put it on the non dimpled side . Works fine.
Have email and voice mail in to WE re what my problem turned out to be.
Machine screw works fine, just not as convenient as a thumb screw.
10/29/2012 at 7:36 am #6712I am waiting on my PP + upgrade kit arrive. Is any part of the WEPS have threaded holes? Or does it just nuts on the end of the bolts?
If there are threaded holes on the WEPS I don’t see how 8-32 would fit (without force or re-tapping the hole) when it is tapped for 10-32.
10/29/2012 at 9:31 am #6719I think he forgot the picture. I’d love to see what he meant, as I’m a little confused by his description.
10/29/2012 at 1:42 pm #6726Our machine shop took the liberty of switching the screws without notifying us. They should be #10-32 Stainless Steel Socked Head Cap Screws with a Knurled Head that have been lathed to a conical point. Instead they sent #8-32 screws.
In this earlier thread you simply say there are two sizes.
“Hey Dennis,
Great question. Some have #10-32 and some have #8-32. It looks like you’ve got the ones with the #8-32 screws.”http://wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&func=view&catid=13&id=6372&Itemid=63#6373
Were you hoping it wouldn’t be an issue Clay?
Was wondering why you never answered the guy that asked why you changed them?Are all the “black” screws #8-32?
10/29/2012 at 1:47 pm #6728Our machine shop took the liberty of switching the screws without notifying us. They should be #10-32 Stainless Steel Socked Head Cap Screws with a Knurled Head that have been lathed to a conical point. Instead they sent #8-32 screws.
In this earlier thread you simply say there are two sizes.
“Hey Dennis,
Great question. Some have #10-32 and some have #8-32. It looks like you’ve got the ones with the #8-32 screws.”http://wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&func=view&catid=13&id=6372&Itemid=63#6373
Were you hoping it wouldn’t be an issue Clay?
Was wondering why you never answered the guy that asked why you changed them?Are all the “black” screws #8-32?[/quote]
I guess I missed the question before. The machine shop switched the spec without consulting me and I tried them and didn’t find an issue so we went ahead and sent them out. I’m working with them to remedy the situation now.
-Clay
10/29/2012 at 1:53 pm #6729I’m working with them to remedy the situation now.
Did they think using smaller screws would remove the need to machine the point?
10/29/2012 at 1:55 pm #6730I’m working with them to remedy the situation now.
Did they think using smaller screws would remove the need to machine the point?[/quote]
I’m not sure what the thinking was.
-Clay
10/29/2012 at 2:01 pm #6731Are “all” the black screws #8-32?
10/29/2012 at 2:05 pm #6732Are “all” the black screws #8-32?
Yes, I think so. I need find out how many we sent out with the #8-32 screws. I should know tomorrow.
-Clay
10/29/2012 at 2:24 pm #6733If there are threaded holes on the WEPS I don’t see how 8-32 would fit (without force or re-tapping the hole) when it is tapped for 10-32.
#8-32 is smaller!
So it seems they threaded a new, smaller hole instead of the usual #10-32 one.
Do they now simply send out “pointy” #8-32 screws or recall the “L” brackets, drill/tap and fit the original #10-32 screws?
I’m guessing new screws. 😉http://www.engineersedge.com/screw_threads_chart.htm
The screws go here.
Pic from Oldawan site.10/29/2012 at 11:28 pm #6767I had the same problem with one of mine, thought it was a problem with the tap job for the angle arm unit at first till I switched screws with the side that was ok. Got a machine screw from hardware store to stabilize it. Put it on the non dimpled side . Works fine.
Have email and voice mail in to WE re what my problem turned out to be.
Machine screw works fine, just not as convenient as a thumb screw.
I was curious about this post… was there a difference in the two screws that came with the kit? (not the replacement you bought).
10/29/2012 at 11:34 pm #6769So call me a newbie, but one set screw is obviously for clamping onto the base rod, the other does what exactly? It looks like the arm is tight in the bracket, and has a nut to tighten it to the bracket. So what is the 2nd screw for? What am I missing?
10/29/2012 at 11:50 pm #6774 -
AuthorPosts
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.