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Micro Fine ceramic stones: my first impressions

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  • #23689
    Todd Simpson
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    • Topics: 0
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    The issue with a ceramic or diamond plate is that the performance will depend on the surface condition. Unlike a water stone, where we can repeatably expose a new surface by lapping.

    As one example, I have a DMT325 plate that is only used on steel and as a result the diamonds are very smooth and uniform – it produces a polished bevel and keen edge. I also have an Atoma 400 that is only used for lapping my waterstones and the diamonds are comparably rough – it produces an ugly bevel with no keenness.

    Although I like the idea of long-lasting non-dishing hones, I don’t see an obvious way to fit them into a progression.

    #23692
    Mr.Wizard
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    • Topics: 6
    • Replies: 190

    Todd, I have been arguing that in a related discussion: https://knife.wickededgeusa.com/forum/2-welcome-mat/13423-getting-a-mirror-finish-on-your-edge?start=30

    Would you would be willing to describe your experience with ceramic hones there?

    #23711
    Mark76
    Participant
    • Topics: 179
    • Replies: 2760

    Incidentally have you directly compared the result of the 1000 diamond plate and the “1.4 micron” ceramic?

    No,I have not carried out any experiments to compare them. But I wouldn’t be suprised if their abrasive performance (whatever that may be) was pretty similar.

    Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge

    #23716
    Pat
    Participant
    • Topics: 16
    • Replies: 114

    I agree with this. Since my edges are for practicality and not aesthetics, I find that the diamond stones are more than suitable to 1000. Anything over that is time better spent elsewhere YMMV

    Although I like the idea of long-lasting non-dishing hones, I don’t see an obvious way to fit them into a progression.

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