Heel to tip edge consistency problems

[Z2Smith]

First let me start off by saying I’ve been searching throught the forum for about an hour and can’t seem to find the answer I’m looking for. I’m sure one of you pros out there have a link or a suggestion for where I can find the answer I seek, so I am asking for your help.

My problem with the WE is that I cannot maintain a consistent edge from the heel of my knife to the tip of my knife. I have experimented on several of my cheap knives and even one of my nice ones. I really hope I’m doing something easy to correct because, well, I’m running out of knives to experiment on haha. Can someone please point me in the right direction for guidance on how to acheive a perfect edge where the grind width does not grow as I approach the tip? I have attached a picture of my Adamas, which I’m guessing is a challenging knife to sharpen. I thought I had my technique down, but from the photo link I have provided you can tell I have room to improve. Thanks!!

Picture of my Adamas with goofy looking edge: https://goo.gl/photos/KTs1ZmbgsAJGbQSe9

[cbwx34]

This link should help…

Finding the Sweet Spot – Positioning Your Knife from Front to Back

… it looks like you need to bring the tip closer to the clamp.

3 users thanked author for this post.

wickededge, Mark76, CliffCurry

[CliffCurry]

cbwx34 wrote:

This link should help…

Finding the Sweet Spot – Positioning Your Knife from Front to Back

<iframe class=”wp-embedded-content” title=”Embedded WordPress Post” src=”https://www.wickededgeusa.com/finding-the-sweet-spot-positioning-your-knife-from-front-to-back/embed/#?secret=q7CvgjPNlF&#8221; width=”600″ height=”261″ frameborder=”0″ marginwidth=”0″ marginheight=”0″ scrolling=”no” sandbox=”allow-scripts” data-secret=”q7CvgjPNlF”></iframe> … it looks like you need to bring the tip closer to the clamp.

Great link to the instructional diagram!!!  Somehow have never seen that before…sure to be a useful in the future. 

Agreed that clamping closer to the tip should help.  That knife looks to be on the chunky side with large bevels.  Not an easy task…I had several kbar knives flare out like that at the tip on me when first getting started.  Also some knives  just seem have a lot of meat up there at the tip making for a real challenge.

All in all Id say your technique looks good so don’t get too discouraged, positioning the knife to where the arc of the rod is closer to following the tips sweep should get you there.  Good luck! 

[cbwx34]

CliffCurry wrote:

Great link to the instructional diagram!!! Somehow have never seen that before…sure to be a useful in the future.  

The links to the instructions and FAQ need to be put back at the top of the forum page, so they can be found.  Now they’re only on the main page under “Resources”

https://www.wickededgeusa.com/category/instructions/

 

https://www.wickededgeusa.com/category/faqs/

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wickededge

[Mark76]

cbwx34 wrote:

CurryCustomCutlery wrote:

Great link to the instructional diagram!!! Somehow have never seen that before…sure to be a useful in the future.

The links to the instructions and FAQ need to be put back at the top of the forum page, so they can be found. Now they’re only on the main page under “Resources” https://www.wickededgeusa.com/category/instructions/ https://www.wickededgeusa.com/category/faqs/

Great link indeed! For some reason I’d never seen that page either. And I also hadn’t seen some of the other other instructions. Very informative and great graphics. I agree these links should be put back. Thanks, Curtis!

Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge

[Mark76]

This info is avilable already on the WE home page under “resources”. I should have looked better. But a link from the forum page (also to the Wiki) might be useful.

Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge

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wickededge

[Z2Smith]

Thanks for the tips guys, I do appreciate it. I had been following the instruction sheet and still could not get it even which is why I posted here. I do believe after further reading that due to the increase in thickness of the blade towards the tip, and a noticeable increase I might add, it makes it virtually impossible with the wicked edge to maintain a perfect bevel width. So more of a blade issue then operator issue as far as I can tell. I placed the blade tip as close as I possibly could to the clamp without grinding on the clamp itself and it still produces a variant edge to the bevel. It’s only on this knife however, so I’m just going to rule it as a knife issue, unless someone out there has more to add. Thanks!

[Josh]

A secondary thing you can do it tilt the blade in the vise so the tip is much lower than the heel of the edge. If you truly want it fixed though, and get it to cut much better you need a regrind 😉

 

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wickededge, CliffCurry

[tcmeyer]

I think it’s important for each of us to understand that the angle of the bevel is determined by the intersection of the stone with the plane of the edge you are sharpening.  Where the tangent line of the edge changes, the bevel angle changes too.  Imagine a Tanto blade mounted so that the main edge of the blade is horizontal, but the tip is mounted very near the front edge of the vise.  When the stone is rotated to work the bevel of the tip, the angle changes drastically – approaching 90 degrees.  To avoid this, you normally remount the blade so as to put the forward edge parallel with the horizontal plane.  Likewise, you must orient any  sweeping blade profile so as to reduce such angular misalignments.   Where the blade’s profile is extreme, you will need to sharpen it in steps, blending the profile as you go, and yes, moving the blade forward, with the tip farther away from the vise will mitigate the errors.

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