More on the Sharpie bit vs. just using a recommended angle. When I try to match angles using a sharpie, I make a very gentle pass with the 800 stone, basically just trying to wipe off as much Sharpie ink as possible. If your setting is off (and it usually is if it is a new knife to you) you are not really taking any significant metal off by doing this. So you make the pass, and adjust the arm in or out a degree or two until you get the most “wipe”. Then you know you are about as well matched as you are going to get, and typically you will start your progression with the finer grits instead of the coarser grits.
If I’m doing a knife that isn’t in too bad a shape, I don’t necessarily want to reprofile it, just match the existing angles. On the other hand the angles suggested in the manual, 18, for example, are just that – suggestions or recommendations. If you have an old kitchen knife with a munged up edge, you’re going to want to reprofile it anyway and 18 degrees is a good suggested angle to use. No Sharpie marking needed, just set up for 18 degrees, put on the 100 grit stones and have at it until you get the burr. Now you are on your way to a reprofiled edge as you go through the progression.
Once you get experience you can decide what angles you like, based on how you use your knives. For me, I tend to higher angles on kitchen knives than pocket knives, because my kitchen knives get “abused” by the family and the higher angles tend to last a bit longer. But that’s just me.
Rgds,
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