Did I Bite Off Too Much?
- This topic has 6 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 07/22/2019 at 11:35 am by
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Richard,
Below is a snip from zknives.com. This site has great information on blade steel. I have sharpened CPM 3V and it is hard work. Especially if you have to reprofile the bevel. Did you feel and hear the difference sharpening this steel compared to other blades? To me, it was evident from the start that sharpening this steel was going to be a long time at the bench.
When I searched 80Crv2, it just came up with “low alloy tool steel.”
Ed K.
<p id=”qStats” class=”lrv”>Generated 45475319 times.</p>CPM 3V(Crucible) – Introduced in 1997. It’s predecessor was now discontinued Vasco Die steel. SImply put, CPM 3V is a PM version of the Vasco Die steel. CPM 3V is one of the toughest tool steels available, especially interesting considering its high wear resistance. In other words, there are other tougher tool steels, AISI S1 steel for example, but none that have comparable wear resistance. CPM 3V also has 7.5% which definitely helps with corrosion resistance, although it is not a stainless steel. Initially, when the steel was new, Knife Steel FAQ stated it’d develop pitting instead of the surface rust. More recent tests show the opposite, even after prolonged exposure to the elements, CPM 3V didn’t develop pitting, just a surface rust. I suppose, if left outside in aggressive environment, CPM 3V would eventually develop pitting, but not before or in place surface rust. When maximum toughness is required, combined with very good wear resistance, 3V is a great choice. CPM 3V also works very well for small fixed blades and folders are high hardness 62-64HRC. Edge stability is very high even at 63HRC, because of its high toughness, and you won’t have edge dulling due to microchipping, which does happen for many alloys at that hardness.Manufacturing Technology – CPM
Country – United States(US)
<ul id=”lst3″ class=”cListMain”>
Crucible CPM 3V and equivalent steel knives reviews
Known Aliases:
Crucible – 3V, Crucible – PM7.5-1.3-2.75CrMoV<ul id=”lst1″ class=”cListMain”>
Proprietary Equivalents
<ul class=”cList”>- Vasco Metal – Vasco Die
Richard, if it’s more time consuming and more work then you want to do then maybe you “bit off too much”.
It’s not anything that you’re not equipped and capable of doing and doing well. Just apply the basics you’re already using. Use your tools and aids. Pay attention to detail and don’t move on to the next step before you’re finished with the present step.
I can share in my experience that harder steels, for me, are sharpened better with a more perpendicularly angled stone stroke to the knife edge. That is closer to an up-down stroke. Work the edge in smaller sections. Then blend the scratch patterns with overlapping stone work. These hard and sometimes brittle steels seem to chip less with edge leading strokes. That is down and onto the knife edge, strokes.
If you take your time you can do it, if you want to. The W. E. will do as good a job as any sharpener can when done correctly with time, effort and attention to detail.
Marc
(MarcH's Rack-Its)It takes time.. you can not “Figure on” a set time per knife.. It is probably safe to say..I will be done sometime within the next 8 hours..
This is like replacing the drain pipe from the washer to the stack pipe.. should take about 4 hours but plan on 3 days!
I’d be learning and practicing on some other knives first with that big electric wheel.
Marc
(MarcH's Rack-Its)2 users thanked author for this post.
I’d be learning and practicing on some other knives first with that big electric wheel.
Boy, you were right about that!
1 user thanked author for this post.
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