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Another “Lessons Learned” post

Viewing 13 posts - 1 through 13 (of 13 total)
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  • #22673
    Pat
    Participant
    • Topics: 16
    • Replies: 114

    Ok here is my experience after trying to sharpen a Santuko Heckels knife the other night. I changed my technique to the following:

    1) I slowed way the heck down and did everything with a purpose. I used the lightest pressure I could and still feel that the stones were working.
    2) I used sharpie which is permanent
    3) I took the 20x lighted loop seriously and learned what was happening after every few strokes of the stones on each edge. I discovered at the start that one side was at the edge (the side I worked more on the other night), the other side was short of the apex by less than a millimeter, so that was my problem the other night.
    4) I was careful with sharpening the heel and the tip with deliberate strokes at both.
    5) Every few strokes I relooked with the loop and when it looked like I was at the edge on both sides, I stopped and moved on.
    6) I could tell when the stones had done their work this time because as you grind down the scratches with the next grit, the action gets smoother and you know you are about there and additional work has diminishing returns. WHEN USING LIGHTER STROKES, IT IS VERY EASY TO TELL WHEN THE STONES ARE NO LONGER TAKING OFF MUCH STEEL
    7) Perhaps next time I need to use 800 grit for the microbevel so it is more toothy

    Also, I believe I will purchase the upgrade kit soon for the following reasons:
    1) I would like to go lower angles if desired…of course
    2) Although the U-joint arms it comes with work well with oil, I can tell I am going to need to spray them down with brake cleaner to get all the oil out, along with the steel and diamond shavings, then reapply oil then put some protective rubber over them (like the cut-off clove fingers I see being used, even with the ball joint arms). So far; however, they are working good enough and are rather smooth. 3 in 1 oil works much better than dry graphite…I will say that. Perhaps even break-free would be better as it has a better friction protection factor when you mix metal shavings in the lube where the CLR breakfree tends to keep the shavings suspended and not allowing them to adhere to the metal you are trying to keep clean (the joints).

    Other thoughts are appreciated.

    #22683
    Josh
    Participant
    • Topics: 89
    • Replies: 1672

    Great write up thanks Pat! Yeah the loop is one of the most important things for sharpeners to have!

    #22684
    Marc H
    Moderator
    • Topics: 74
    • Replies: 2735

    Pat, I’m curious, did you adjust your sharpening angle for the clamping error? You made no mention of that. My Santoku’s all lean to the left from vertical when clamped securely. I have to lower the left setting by 1.0 dps and raise the right setting by 1.0dps to keep my bevel even. In other words for a 20dps/40 incl bevel my left is at 19 and my right is at 21. If you did not take the cant of the knife into consideration that could possible also explain why one side you worked on did not reach the apex the first time you tried it. I find most of my knives lean or cant left when clamped. I sharpen mainly kitchen knives.

    Marc

    Marc
    (MarcH's Rack-Its)

    #22686
    Josh
    Participant
    • Topics: 89
    • Replies: 1672

    Pat, I’m curious, did you adjust your sharpening angle for the clamping error? You made no mention of that. My Santoku’s all lean to the left from vertical when clamped securely. I have to lower the left setting by 1.0 dps and raise the right setting by 1.0dps to keep my bevel even. In other words for a 20dps/40 incl bevel my left is at 19 and my right is at 21. If you did not take the cant of the knife into consideration that could possible also explain why one side you worked on did not reach the apex the first time you tried it. I find most of my knives lean or cant left when clamped. I sharpen mainly kitchen knives.

    Marc

    Marc,

    If you do what I am about to describe you should not have any tilting after locking the knife in the vise…

    1. degrease your blade really good w/ windex or something
    2. put a piece of painters tape around the spine.
    3. lock your knife into the vise ** properly ** (that being key) – what I mean here is that the gap at the bottom (from the bottom screw) should be roughly equivalent to the width of your spine BEFORE you ever start tightening the top screw. Then when you get the knife clamped in (using the top screw) you only need to turn the bottom about 1/2 turn.

    The contact points of the spine edges against the sides of the jaw are prevented from slipping and allowing the knife to tilt because of the tape… try it and let me know what you think!

    #22687
    Pat
    Participant
    • Topics: 16
    • Replies: 114

    Thanks Josh for the suggestion and I will keep that in mind as well in case I run into this with FFG blades.

    Marc – my Santuko didn’t have the issue IMO. My angle finder showed a 0.2 degree difference so that was de minimus IMO. Also, my knife isn’t FFG so it had enough flat steel to keep the angle rather even.

    Pat, I’m curious, did you adjust your sharpening angle for the clamping error? You made no mention of that. My Santoku’s all lean to the left from vertical when clamped securely. I have to lower the left setting by 1.0 dps and raise the right setting by 1.0dps to keep my bevel even. In other words for a 20dps/40 incl bevel my left is at 19 and my right is at 21. If you did not take the cant of the knife into consideration that could possible also explain why one side you worked on did not reach the apex the first time you tried it. I find most of my knives lean or cant left when clamped. I sharpen mainly kitchen knives.

    Marc

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    #22688
    Marc H
    Moderator
    • Topics: 74
    • Replies: 2735

    Josh, I’m still working on that clamping technique. I keep trying it first every time I clamp a knife. I still haven’t been able to clamp the knife securely enough to not move. After a few strokes on either side the knife is shifted/rotated away from where I initially clamped it. When I get it tight enough to be stable it has canted left then I have to adjust for the lean. But Thanks for your suggestion.
    Marc

    Marc
    (MarcH's Rack-Its)

    #22690
    Pat
    Participant
    • Topics: 16
    • Replies: 114

    Marc,

    I suggest you clamp the knife as deep as possible in your vise. Are you at least clamping it at the lower setting?

    Additionally, your strokes should not be severe enough to move the knife as you are working on it as long as it is snug to not move with casual bumps and such.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    #22694
    wickededge
    Keymaster
    • Topics: 123
    • Replies: 2938

    Marc,

    Are your vise jaws bent?

    -Clay

    #22695
    Pat
    Participant
    • Topics: 16
    • Replies: 114

    This is another excellent point. I am very careful to only tighten the vise tight enough to prevent the knife from moving with casual bumps and movement, not to pick up the base like Clay will show in the video (paper base that is) for I have a granite base and that thing isn’t moving.

    #22699
    Marc H
    Moderator
    • Topics: 74
    • Replies: 2735

    Marc,

    Are your vise jaws bent?

    Clay I don’t believe so. The tiny gap appears uniform from top to bottom and side to side.

    Marc

    Marc
    (MarcH's Rack-Its)

    #22700
    Pat
    Participant
    • Topics: 16
    • Replies: 114

    I would imagine to tell you would just remove all screws and put them together and see if there are any gaps top to bottom. I would think if bent it would be toward the top.

    #22701
    Marc H
    Moderator
    • Topics: 74
    • Replies: 2735

    Marc,

    I suggest you clamp the knife as deep as possible in your vise. Are you at least clamping it at the lower setting?

    Additionally, your strokes should not be severe enough to move the knife as you are working on it as long as it is snug to not move with casual bumps and such.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    I’m sharpening Japanese style knives VG10 steel at 12dps. I don’t believe I can get that narrow in the bottom holes.

    Marc

    Marc
    (MarcH's Rack-Its)

    #22702
    Pat
    Participant
    • Topics: 16
    • Replies: 114

    In that case you may need the low angle adapter. The basic kit has limitations you are testing.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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