A new youtube video
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I thought that we were not supposed to check angles with a coarse stone? And I advise you guys to wear a N95 mask when you are sharpening knives with any system. It is the particles and dust that you do not see, that you breathe in…IMHO
Before sharpening I determine the angle with the catra hobbygoni. That will be my guideline. The sharpy test is only to check if the knife is in the right place in the clamp.
000Robert, when I’m finding the “sweet spot”, (i.e., the best or most efficient position to clamp the knife for sharpening), using a sharpie, I use a very fine stone or often even lapping films, with a very wide or obtuse stone angle setting. All I’m trying to do is remove the sharpie ink, just barely touching the edge with the stone, without removing any steel, while adjusting the clamping position. I’m simply determining how efficiently the stone contacts the knife’s edge apex as it’s positioned and clamped.
Once I have the knife positioned and clamped in this best position, then I start adjusting the stone angles, more acutely, to determine what the angle actually is, as I remove the sharpie ink from across the entire bevel height. Then last, I measure and record the stone angles where I get complete removal of the sharpie ink from the full bevel, shoulder to apex.
For me it’s a multistep, multipurpose process.
(My issue with the hobbygoni is, I sharpen mostly chef’s knives. These knives can often be too tall to fit in the circular frame of the goniometer. IMO, just measuring the bevel angle at the shorter height of the knife’s tip, (the only knife portion that would fit in the device), is not a true representation of the actual knife’s bevel angle and therefore an expensive device for limited use. I find many knives as they’re forged, have a narrow bevel angled tip where the steel is often thinner, also).
Marc
(MarcH's Rack-Its)1 user thanked author for this post.
That’s pretty much the way the knowledge base helps say to do it rather than grinding your blade with a coarse stone not knowing where it is going to grind your blade at. I would rather put a gentle scratch on my edge while removing the sharpie ink to find the right angle than gouging a 100 grit scratch across it.
The hobbygoni is a quick and easy way to get an idea of about what a blades edges are. At home I would just clamp it up and see.
1 user thanked author for this post.
000Robert, when I’m finding the “sweet spot”, (i.e., the best or most efficient position to clamp the knife for sharpening), using a sharpie, I use a very fine stone or often even lapping films, with a very wide or obtuse stone angle setting. All I’m trying to do is remove the sharpie ink, just barely touching the edge with the stone, without removing any steel, while adjusting the clamping position. I’m simply determining how efficiently the stone contacts the knife’s edge apex as it’s positioned and clamped.
Once I have the knife positioned and clamped in this best position, then I start adjusting the stone angles, more acutely, to determine what the angle actually is, as I remove the sharpie ink from across the entire bevel height. Then last, I measure and record the stone angles where I get complete removal of the sharpie ink from the full bevel, shoulder to apex. For me it’s a multistep, multipurpose process. (My issue with the hobbygoni is, I sharpen mostly chef’s knives. These knives can often be too tall to fit in the circular frame of the goniometer. IMO, just measuring the bevel angle at the shorter height of the knife’s tip, (the only knife portion that would fit in the device), is not a true representation of the actual knife’s bevel angle and therefore an expensive device for limited use. I find many knives as they’re forged, have a narrow bevel angled tip where the steel is often thinner, also).
MarcH Maybe this one is something for your knives: https://sharpeningtool.eu/de/catalog/accessories
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Very interesting and a useful tool to be sure, but a bit overkill in my case. There are only a handful of angles I sharpen at (13, 17 and 20) and that I already have noted for each knife. If a new blade happens along, sharpies work OK and I generally like to keep it simple. Just my 2 cents.
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