The 50/80 stones and the subject of raising a burr

First, save the 50s for when you’ve got some serious metal to remove. For example you want to reprofile an edge down several degrees, or make a major repair.

On the 50s, I try and stop when I’m about 1/16 in. away, maybe a tad less, from the edge. Mark the edge with a Sharpie (marker), and watch as it disappears.

I then switch to the 80s, remark the blade if needed, and stop when I just see a few lines in the marker cleaned off to the very edge, if that makes sense. I usually look through a loupe (magnifier) to check this. Then switch to the 100s and start cleaning up the grind marks… that will also usually reach the edge.

Curtis couldn’t have said it better.

All I can add is: just try the 100’s. If you don’t see improvement and a burr then go back to the 50/80’s. It doesn’t hurt anything.

If you do raise bur it’s OK. Just spend more time with 100/200’s. The only problem I am aware of with raising a bur is the edge will have deep scratches/teeth in it. This can be smoothed out but is less work to avoid it in the first place. I try to force myself to spend more time the 100/200’s after using the 50/80’s to help get out the deep scratches anyway.

Of course, anything that I would use the 50/80s for, I take to the belt grinder. A couple of minutes with a 120 or 180 grit belt and I am ready for the WEPS.:evil:

Phil

Cheater….. :silly: :silly: :silly: 🙂

Well, persistence paid off. I did eventually get this baby down to 26° inc.

It was way harder than I’d expected. It’s my first S35VN blade but it seemed much more wear resistant than I’d expected S35VN to be. The only stones that were really a problem were the 100s. I wondering if they have worn more than the others…. Hmmm…

At any rate, Bob is now sending me a set of the 50/80s for the next reprofile. (thanks Bob!)

And I know just the knife for them……..

Ken

Please let us know how that edge holds.

Will do. I didn’t polish it. Only ran it through the ceramics but it’s a great edge, starting off.

Ken

I have had the 50/80s for a little while now and couldn’t be happier. I don’t think it takes that much time to get the scratches out. With the WE 100 passes only takes a minute and I find after only 50 passes on each 100 then 200 I can’t tell I used the 50/80 stones.:)

Matthieu,
Thanks for the report. I will preface this with.. if you are happy, that is all that counts.
Still, I would like to know how you make the decision that you can’t even tell ??

Do you use any magnification to “not tell”?
What level of refinement do you try to attain with your edges… your bevel? Meaning what is the finest grit that you use?

The whole idea of letting people know of your results is framing the answer so that others know what you mean.
There are lots of conversations going on about getting the ultimate edge refinement and a mirror bevel. In general sharpening discussions, these questions migh be irrevelent, In the context of the WEPS, they become critical.

From my experience, even the 100 grit scratches will take a long time to remove. In fact, after careful attempts at removal, they will reveal themselves when one is trying to do everything through multiple grits to remove all visible evidence of scratches.

Now, if one is sharpening for a great edge and never goes past the 1K grit diamonds and some stropping,nothing I asked about matters. That is a very worthy goal!! But, I would ask that you define that for us a bit…

Just trying to get to your frame of reference… otherwise the statement “I can’t tell” is real hard to intrepret.

At any given time, there are many times the number of visitors here as hard core members, they also need to know.

THX
Phil

Do you use any magnification to “not tell”?
What level of refinement do you try to attain with your edges… your bevel? Meaning what is the finest grit that you use?

The whole idea of letting people know of your results is framing the answer so that others know what you mean.
There are lots of conversations going on about getting the ultimate edge refinement and a mirror bevel. In general sharpening discussions, these questions migh be irrevelent, In the context of the WEPS, they become critical. I’m sorry for the lack of details. I am new to forums and probably don’t have the best writing skills. I read this forum just about every day for tips and would feel a little guilty if I didn’t try to contribute something.:huh: I raise a burr with my 50/80 stones then proceed through all the diamond stones 50 to 100 passes per stone the last few passes on each grit with light pressure.The super fine ceramics are next then the micro ceramics. Then I change my angle 2 degrees lower in this case form 17 to 15 then start stropping with the 5/3.5 on leather light strokes then test with my dogs hair (short hair terrier) then back down to 17 degrees for my balsa strops with 1./0.5 diamond spray then back up to 15 degrees for a final strop with o.25/0.125 Cubic boron nitride. I use alcohol spray on all my strops and I have to say maybe a little to much my leather seems to be stiffening up which might not be so bad as far as rounding the edge with the soft leather is a concern for me.I check my edges with a 60x lighted lop like I saw in one of Clays posts. I get the mirror finish and cut dog hair but it’s not perfect I’m still learning. The few small scratches i see when I am done I think are contaminates from lapping my ceramics and my leather strops not my 50/80 stones.