DOES SPEED MATTER ?

I suppose if you go really fast, there’s a possibility of “skidding”, whereby you don’t make constant contact, but I doubt anybody’s that fast around sharp edges.

How fast you remove metal is dependent on a few variables:

1. The grit number and how fresh the diamonds are (they do get worn down after a while)
2. The hardness of the steel and how well it resists abrasion.
3. The pressure applied.
4. The distance the abrasive passes over any one point with each stroke.
5. And, of course, the strokes per minute

Number 4 is a function of the width of the stone and the angle at which the stone passes the edge.  Generally, the length of the abrasive is at least the width of the stone.  It would be greatest in a vertical stroke, where the length is nearly the real length of the stone.  For number 5, scrubbing strokes produce more strokes per minute and therefor more abrading distance per stroke than unidirectional strokes.

Maybe I missed a point?

I’d say it’s the other way around. If you do it faster, you apply more force, so there’s a higher chance of chipping. In addition you’re probably less careful.

NotVerySharp: it’s technique for me that counts. Keeping the paddles flat against the bevel’s surface with whatever consistent pressure I am applying. I may vary the pressure from sort of a lot to very very light depending on what I’m doing with which particular paddle. No matter if I’m using scrubbing strokes, edge leading or edge trailing strokes the most important aspect for me is technique. If I’m not holding the paddle flat against the bevel to ensure full flat contact I’m not creating a smooth straight bevel that terminates at the apex. When I do this on both sides of the knife the result is a very straight smooth sharp edge.

When I’m reprofiling or reshaping and need to remove a lot of metal I use more pressure often with a scrubbing, up and down stroke, with lower grit diamond stones but still maintain the flat constant contact and don’t allow the paddle to roll in my fingers against the bevel. If I can maintain technique while going faster then I go faster. I try to not slap the stones against the knife which can happen if I try going fast.

I also spot check visually with the USB microscope to see where I need to concentrate my paddle contact. Sometimes I see I’m leaving old metal low down on the bevel close to the shoulder and sometimes I’m removing more metal close to the shoulder and not a consistent amount from up near the apex. So I may need to adjust my finger placement higher up or lower down on the paddle to achieve proper pressure to even out the flatness of the bevel. Again for me it’s all about technique.

As I move up to the higher finer grits to achieve a polished appearance I use lighter pressure maintaining flat technique sometimes with just barley a touch.

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