Micro adjustment and the "locking" screw

I used to use nylon inserts …. now I just use nylon cap screws.  Work well for me.  Sent you a message.

You just need a #10-32 x 5/8 size (though you could get some that are a little shorter). I originally got them at Granger.  Here’s the Granger link:  https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-10-32-x-5-8-Socket-Head-Cap-4FVL3   However, you can probably find them at any big box hardware store.  Originally, after I bought them, I would grind down the threads (to where one would slide easily in the adjustment hole) and then cut off a 1/16 inch or so section and insert it in the hole.  I would then screw in the original adjuster screw.  The nylon bit would press against the arm threads, preventing damage.  After a year of doing this, decided to just try to use the nylon screws.  They have been working great.  They hold in place and you don’t need to apply too much force tightening.

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wstaton

I place a tiny plug of electrical wire insulation – probably a little smaller than a 1/8″ cube.  It will take a perfect form of the micro-adjust threads.  I also square up the end on the locking screw so that turning it won’t mess with the plug.  Once it’s done right, the plug can last for several years.

Bill is right that you can use a file to completely remove the damaged section of threads, but this can contribute to damaging whatever you use for a locking screw / plug.  I damaged my micro-adjusts too, by messing up the end with the Allen socket.  Please don’t ask why or how.  I will not acknowledge my stupidity.  Anyway, I replaced the microadjusts and spherical ball joints by buying 1.5″ long set screws and plain ball joints.  I epoxied the set screws in the bores of the ball joints and it works beautifully.  Not all that expensive.  You can also call Kyle at Wicked Edge and ask what they’d chanrge for replacement parts.

I took an eraser from a Staedltler mechanical pencil and cut a small piece off and inserted in the threaded hole and used original Knobbed set screws.