Micro adjustment and the "locking" screw

[phillyjudge]

I ruined a set of arms by tightening down on the micro adjuster screws and flattening the threads. What do you guys do to prevent them from shifting?  Teflon tape? Was I just  wayyyyy over tightening?

[Dennis Hibar]

I used to use nylon inserts …. now I just use nylon cap screws.  Work well for me.  Sent you a message.

[wstaton]

Dennis, thank you for the comment. Would you mind telling me what size you got and where you got them?

[Dennis Hibar]

You just need a #10-32 x 5/8 size (though you could get some that are a little shorter). I originally got them at Granger.  Here’s the Granger link:  https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-10-32-x-5-8-Socket-Head-Cap-4FVL3   However, you can probably find them at any big box hardware store.  Originally, after I bought them, I would grind down the threads (to where one would slide easily in the adjustment hole) and then cut off a 1/16 inch or so section and insert it in the hole.  I would then screw in the original adjuster screw.  The nylon bit would press against the arm threads, preventing damage.  After a year of doing this, decided to just try to use the nylon screws.  They have been working great.  They hold in place and you don’t need to apply too much force tightening.

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wstaton

[Bill Kirkley]

You can use a triangular file to smooth out threads.

[tcmeyer]

I place a tiny plug of electrical wire insulation – probably a little smaller than a 1/8″ cube.  It will take a perfect form of the micro-adjust threads.  I also square up the end on the locking screw so that turning it won’t mess with the plug.  Once it’s done right, the plug can last for several years.

Bill is right that you can use a file to completely remove the damaged section of threads, but this can contribute to damaging whatever you use for a locking screw / plug.  I damaged my micro-adjusts too, by messing up the end with the Allen socket.  Please don’t ask why or how.  I will not acknowledge my stupidity.  Anyway, I replaced the microadjusts and spherical ball joints by buying 1.5″ long set screws and plain ball joints.  I epoxied the set screws in the bores of the ball joints and it works beautifully.  Not all that expensive.  You can also call Kyle at Wicked Edge and ask what they’d chanrge for replacement parts.

[Bill Kirkley]

Another option is to add a 1/4-28 nut to the arm.  With a standard nut you will have 3/16 travel left.  To gain more you can grind the nut thinner.   Another option is to get a piece if 5/8X1/2X1/8 flat bar and drill and tap it.  With the home made “nut” you can finger tighten it and forgo the wrench.  When tightening the nut hold the allen wrench firm and gently tighten the nut to avoid losing your position.  I have not used this but I think it would work.

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[Pinkfloyd]

I took an eraser from a Staedltler mechanical pencil and cut a small piece off and inserted in the threaded hole and used original Knobbed set screws.

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[Bill Kirkley]

TCMeyer – With the triangle file you do not have to remove the damaged section of the thread.  You only file away material that protrudes into the thread.  Most of the thread remains.  You are only repairing the thread, not removing it. A triangle file has the same angle as the thread and seats in the thread.

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