-Terry

[-Terry]

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NorCalQ wrote:

Terry, I found the same thing. Add to that, variances that occur whether your stroke is leading edge/tailing edge, heel to tip/tip to heel, scrubbing/full strokes, working the blade in sections or taking full strokes and combinations of all those variables. Right now, I’ve settled on holding near the top of the handle, trailing edge, heel to tip, full stroke, for the most consistant bevel scratches. That said, maybe I’m wrong and should be holding near the bottom of the handle…I don’t know.

 

Like I was told, you have to do what gives you the results you desire. However, I do scrubbing to form the burr, then edge leading, heel to tip strokes, and continue those strokes until all or close to all evidence of the previous grit, have disappeared. I also hold about a third of the way up from the bottom of the stone. With edge leading strokes, holding the stone too high (besides getting the results I originally posted) can also put you in greater danger of cutting yourself if you’re not paying 100% attention.

[-Terry]

Marc H wrote:

I rely on visual inspection with a USB microscope in conjunction with finger feel for the burr and edge sharpness. I also test each grit edge for sharpening progression by pulling a piece of newspaper down across the clamped knives edges. I’m looking for the change, that is the improvement, in ease of cutting the paper and the sound made while cutting the paper with each grit compared with the next finer grit. I start each grit one sided with scrubbing strokes done alternating by switching back and forth from side to side to keep the amount of effort and steel removal similar. There’s a balance between the formation of the burr then removing it when you switch to the other side of the knife edge. As you get further along in the progress of profiling the opposite side bevels and apexing the edges, with each subsequent grit, the burr is formed and quickly removed all along the length of the blade. When I see and feel the burr has formed I know that side and that portion of the edge is profiled how I want it. Then I move my attention to the other portions of the blade till the entire length on both sides reached this point; burr on then burr off. So the burr is really just an indicator of my progress and I don’t leave it in place for very long. Once I’m satisfied my bevels are profiled, that is angled and shaped, flat and even sized along both sides of the entire knives lengths with the scrubbing strokes, then I switch to alternating side (left-right-left-right) edge leading (down and onto) strokes. Again, I use the USB microscope and finger feels to monitor my sharpness progress. To expand on the explanation of my technique, I work any knives I’m sharpening in portions. Only working a portion of the length at any time. The size or actually the length of the portion is determined by what is working best for that particular knife and the shape of the knife edge. I keep the amount work balanced by the time I spend on the portion without actually counting the strokes. It’s more by the monitoring my back and forth or down that portion of the edge then back up, a few times, then I switch to the other side and repeat it, similarly. I blend each portion together with overlapping strokes as I do the next portion until the entire length on both sides is done to my liking. When I’ve done the scrubbing first followed by the edge leading strokes till I’m satisfied with the appearance and the feel, I move on to the next finer grit and repeat. The improvement I feel and hear with the pull down paper cut test with each grit helps me monitor my progress. I’m visually inspecting for in-line, parallel, scratch patterns with these scratches of similar width and similar depth corresponding with the grit being used. When the appearance is consistent and I have done my two stroke technique I move on up a fine grit and repeat. Each finer grit is quicker and easier to complete because they’re really just refining the profile created with the first grit. First time sharpening are more laborious and time consuming and are done with a coarser beginning grit. Touch-ups are easier, quicker and can be started with a finer beginning grit depending on the level of edge wear and damage. My results are entirely dependent on the quality of the beginning profiling done with the starting grit. Finished results are dependent on the consistency and attention to detail from each grit along the entire process. Poor quality results from earlier grits can stay with you through the entire sharpening process. They will probably more so effect the final appearance then the final sharpness. The amount of time I spend, and the appearance of the results of each grit will determine the quality of the final polish. The trick is to find the balance between sharpness, durability and mirrored appearance that fits the needs of that particular knife and it’s purpose and duty.

That was incredibly informative, thank you. It would be great if there was an experienced member near the 14616 zip. I’m a much better visual learner.

[-Terry]

Sorry Readheads, I didn’t see your post as I was typing mine. My bad.

[-Terry]

In my limited experience with creating a burr, the burr us much harder to detect as you progress to higher grits. You can still feel it, but it’s not as easy. I usually run a finger from spine, to edge on both sides, and can usually feel the difference. Just be sure you feel that difference from heel to tip. Then repeat the process on the other side. Not saying my way is correct, but that’s what I do.

[-Terry]

I’m actually trying to look for a reflection on my knife edges, and it looks like I’m seeing reflection from  the sides (bevels) not the actual edge. I have a USB microscope coming Tuesday, I guess I’ll have to wait for that.

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[-Terry]

Ok, well that’s almost exactly how I do it, so either were both right, or both wrong. Lol

[-Terry]

Yes, I agree. I use my cube for each grit change. I also noticed that there is upwards of .3 to .4° slop in the stone on the guide rod too. I adjust for the position I hold the stones the most.

[-Terry]

Perfect, thanks.

[-Terry]

So as long as my cube indicates the desired angle, thats all that matters? Good to know. Thanks everyone.

[-Terry]

1. Ok, so I put my knife at position F6, set the table to 15°, and the micro adjustment will not allow me to get an actual 15dps. However, if I set the table to 16°, I can get to 15  dps using micro adjustments. Is this normal?

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[-Terry]

FYI, I’m using the Wicked Edge Gen 3 Pro.

[-Terry]

So I’ve taken my system apart, and noticed 2 things. I have 6 washer sets, as opposed to the 5 I see in the instructions (Could be why my clamp is tight at the lowest tension setting with a regular pocket knife).

Secondly, a 1 inch long, by 1/ 8 inch diameter piece of rubber fell out of the clamp mechanism, and i don’t know where (again, not in the instructions) it came from. Any ideas?

[-Terry]

1. Ya, I lifted the blade, and it no longer hits the clamp. Most of my blades are close to the same size, so illI have to remember to lift em all a bit higher than resting on the pins. Thanks

2 users thanked author for this post.

Organic, Brewbear

[-Terry]

Perfect, thank you .

 

[-Terry]

Sorry for all the confusion, and mixed content. I’ll try to keep my topics separated now.

[Author]

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