James

[James]

Richard wrote:

Here’s some more pics with a little more definition.

Has that knife been sharpened on an electric sharpener (maybe Chefs Choice?). In the second pic, it appears to have a BIG low spot in the blade about an inch and a half from the bolster A chefs knife should be flat in that portion of the blade.

As for the chips, heat treatment could certainly be the culprit. It looks like you are using the chipped portion of the blade to chop with. I’m just wondering if the heel portion of the blade would chip, if used for chopping. It may be that Mikedoh is correct in that factory sharpening caused it. If that is the case, it may be that only that portion of the blade was overheated.

2 users thanked author for this post.

NotSharpEnuff, Marc H

[James]

Marc H wrote:

Just to be clear, I only apply the dry wax lubricants for the inside moving parts in the W.E. vises and on the ball ends, after I wipe all the parts clean to remove any steel dust from sharpening using a clean dry micro-fiber towel. I do not apply anything on the boot covers or any rubber parts. The guide rods I do wipe clean with the dry clean towel first, then a silicone gun rag. I also pull a small wad patch cut from the silicone gun rag, with a string, through the bore holes of the plastic sharpening stone paddles when they seem resistant to slide and rotate around the guide rods while sharpening. Wiping the guide rods and pulling the silicone wad through the handle bores is the most frequent maintenance process I exercise. This makes a noticeable improvement in sharpening ease.

I think a bore snake would be great for cleaning the inside of the paddles. You can get them in lengths for pistol/revolver, and most have a soft brass brush, followed by a swab at the end. Clean and lube at the same time.

1 user thanked author for this post.

Marc H

[James]

Expidia wrote:

Welcome to the forum James!

Thank you!

[James]

Eric wrote:

Using Ballistoll(spelling) on the rods only . Once I clean it up, I’m going to use Hornady drylube a d cover the pivot arms with the RC covers Like MarcH and some others use. I’ve been doing some reading in here.

I’d be cautious about using any petroleum based lubricants on those rods. Petroleum based lubricants, will over time, cause rubber, vinyl and certain plastics to dry out and crack. Just lube one of your sink washers with vaseline, and see how long it takes to start leaking.
With the slight amount that would be left on those rods, after cleaning, lubing, and wiping off, you might never have a problem with with your handles, but…..
Silicone lubricants are usually recommended for anything that comes in contact with rubber, plastic, vinyl, etc. Teflon would probably be fine as well.
Both are available on Amazon as dry lubes.

[James]

I agree with MarcH…16 DPS.

This is from the C&M website for the Shun Hiro….”64° Rockwell Hardness; hand-sharpened Japanese double-bevel blade angle 16° (each side)”

And for the Shun Classic: Rockwell Hardness: 60-61; hand-sharpened Japanese double-bevel blade angle 16° (each side)

3 users thanked author for this post.

Richard, Expidia, Brewbear

[Author]

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