Haakon Aase Heie

[Haakon Aase Heie]

You really did good with that Sami knife. Beautiful edge. Nice mirror polish.:-)

[Haakon Aase Heie]

Thanks for your help. I suppose all goniometers would have a problem with convex edges. I have now ordered the model you use:-)

[Haakon Aase Heie]

Big chips I would estimate it will take between 2 to 4 hours to get the chips out grinding at 12.3Ëšand get it to the sort of finish you would expect from the WE.
I am sure the result will be good but I don’t think the knife is worth that much work spent on it I would set the stones to the highest angle to remove the chips which would not take long at 30Ëš with the courses stone then I would put a micro bevel around say 16Ëšpre side I imagine that would take something like 20 minutes and the knife would be very sharp plus you won’t of wasted precious diamonds on what is a cheap knife which has been used as a cheap knife (the chips verify that) ; yes the steel is good but I would not dream of doing that for someone & I would be pushed to do it for myself.
Still if you do it as a scandi grind it would be interesting to hear how long it took.

I am not sure what to do yet. I got it from a friend. I am also waiting for the 50/80 stones in my package, so maybe I’ll use it to break them in?

I’ll just see what to do and how much time to put into it. If I decide to do it as a scandi, I’ll let you know how it worked out.

[Haakon Aase Heie]

Thank you Mark,

The fellow from Catra said that this one was not usable for a business, but of course he wants a better sale..:-)

Personally I think that if it’s good enough for you, it is definitly good enough for me. Thanks.

[Haakon Aase Heie]

Hello Eamon:-)

They are not difficult to clamp, because the bevel starts like from 1/2 to 1/3 part of the blade towards the edge. The tip is the only part that is 100% zero grind.

Try to get some pictures in here (this particular one needs lots of work as you can see:-))

Angle is 12,30 degrees. I can’t really see why that should not work with the low angle adapter…

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[Haakon Aase Heie]

Anyone tried with the low angle adapter? Just ordered one hoping that it will make it possible to do most scandis on the PP2, and there are a lot of them around over here. Technically, if you put a micro bevel on them, they are no longer a scandi grind…

[Haakon Aase Heie]

I think you will want to reprofile later anyway, when you get used to the WEPS 🙂 It’s a great syatem.

20 degrees is probably closer to the factory angle, but as I said, Benchmades can be sloppy coming from the factory. The angle can also be different on each side. But as long as you get a burr all the way on both sides you should be fine.

[Haakon Aase Heie]

Yeah, I remember that debate. Amazing how emotional and fierce, and how strong feelings certain people (and their gurus) can manifest when it comes to simply sharpening a razor. O__0

My position in it was that I did it edge trailing and mostly agreed with Carter, and in the end I sent him a razor for sharpening. It came back very sharp and smooth, giving a really close shave only with one pass.

Tom’s article on this is really good and balanced (as all his writings are). Especially considering all the trouble and hostility at the time.

[Haakon Aase Heie]

Benchmade is not known for making an even and consistant edge unfortunately, so it is possible that the edge is all over the place with regards to degrees.

I just reprofiled my tanto to 15 degrees each side on the WE, and it is a really good and sharp knife now. I use it as my EDC.

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[Haakon Aase Heie]

Can’t see the video Curtis. It says that it’s “private…”

[Haakon Aase Heie]

Perhaps try with a cork from a wine bottle or something. That is the method that my grandfather used. I have also seen that Murray Carter use that method when he sharpen knives and even razors 🙂

[Haakon Aase Heie]

5 microns on the coarse side, and 3.5 on the fine side 🙂 Don’t use loads of compound. A little goes a long way.

[Haakon Aase Heie]

Yes, that razor is looking really good. Thanks for the pictures. It’s great fun as well, restoring old razors. Somehow the quality seems so much better than the ones they make today 🙂

[Haakon Aase Heie]

#Bob

Good luck.

I am sure you’ll do fine:-)

Let us know about your results..

[Haakon Aase Heie]

#Josh

Still there is something with the ceramics that make the shave somewhat harsher than waterstones from my experience, and that is something that puzzles me. I have managed to get smooth shaves directly from a Norton 8000#, and they are only rated at about 3um. Our WEPS microfines should be way better from looking at the grit chart. The 15k Shaptons are “only” rated at 0.98um…

However, as I said to Bob, The ceramics work fine from my point of view, as long as the razor is sufficiently stropped afterwards.

#Mark

Personally I have never had any problems with convexing from stropping. One of my friends is and old school barber, and he claims that a razor lasts for ages if stropped his way. His recommendation is contrary to what is accepted truth in the S.R. community though. He’s stropping hard, applying about 2kg of pressure on the razor against a felt strop. I have tried this method on my daily shaver, an old Eicker&Söhne wedge, and it has actually held up now for 3-4 years without touching a stone. I don’t know how it will work over time on a flexible hollow ground though, since I only occasionally use them.

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