BarmanBean

[BarmanBean]

I think he’s saying start down and towards the user, move up and away towards tip (edge trailing stroke).  Then, without moving stone of the blade, you are still in the position of up-and-away, bring the stone back down and towards the user.  This is in lieu of removing the stone, repositioning at down and towards user, and then doing another “normal” edge trailing stroke.

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NotVerySharp

[BarmanBean]

Marc, everything arrived as described.  Knives look great, shipping was near immediate, and everything was packed with care.  I look forward to using them!

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Marc H

[BarmanBean]

<p style=”text-align: left;”>I’m still a noob here, but one thing that helps me is to work one side at a time and use the index finger on my other hand as a bit of a guide.  I will hold my finger so it rests on the tip and extents past it so when I’m working the stone I can’t roll it over and round the tip–I’ve not had any rounding issues with this method, although I do experience some widening bevels at the tip like OP here.</p>

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Joe Cooley, Marc H, Organic, Mark76

[BarmanBean]

Hey Marc,

I’m interested.  Could you shoot me an email at my username at gmail.com?

Thanks 🙂

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Marc H

[BarmanBean]

Wicked Edge components have a lifetime warranty.  Get in touch with their customer service for replacement.  I suggest calling them directly or communicating via facebook, replies to submissions on the website have been a bit slower.

[BarmanBean]

Hey, thanks for the video.  It’s funny, I watched one of your other videos not too long ago just searching through random stuff on youtube.  Saw a couple of your posts here on the forum and heard the voice on the video here and thought “damn, that sounds familiar”!

Good stuff, looks like all your equipment gets a lot of use!

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NotVerySharp

[BarmanBean]

I think most people use foam tape, a piece of rubber, piece of chamois, etc. to aide in mounting FFG knives like that.

[BarmanBean]

I really think it’s the knife.  The other knife in the pair sharpened fine, many others are sharpening fine.  Although I have to admit I’m trying to use the 200 grit wherever possible as the starting grit.

 

tcmeyer, you say you never apex with stones under 400 grit.  Well how the HECK are you developing an edge then?  You mean that you are continuing to try and reprofile knives with 600 grit stones and higher?  If I’m understanding correctly, doesn’t that correlate to spending ungodly amounts of time in reprofiling?  I’m honestly confused, because I thought the point was to apex at the beginning grit and then continue to refine / polish the edge as you go through the stones…?

[BarmanBean]

yeah, everything seems to indicate not to apex / develop a burr using the 100 grit stones.  I didn’t even mean to really, I think the metal just wore down extremely fast.  I made a few scrubbing passes on each side and the demolition evidence was in full effect.

This is why I’m continuing to use cruddy knives for the most part 🙂

My roommate with the Henckel–caught him cooking some chicken tonight and asked him how the knife was.  He said something along the lines of “I thought I had sharp knives before, but this is just crazy”  🙂  It’s nice putting an edge on a tired knife!

[BarmanBean]

Awesome.  I’ve had a fantastic customer service experience with WE so far also, although my method of communication has been through facebook messages 🙂

[BarmanBean]

Well, the “good news” is that something definitely seems to be wrong with your specific rods.  I cannot produce any binding in the similar range of motion on my own rods.  I would definitely get in touch with WE / Clay to discuss the issue.

[BarmanBean]

Yeah, fiddling around here, I can’t even get the universal joints to bind in any fashion even if I’m trying to somehow produce that effect.

Could OP possible have the ball joint arms and is swinging to far out to the side on the “return” strokes?  Isn’t there a limit to how for out away from the vise you can swing with those arms?

[BarmanBean]

As a new WEPS user, I’ll say that I have not had a single binding issue with the normal universal joint arms that come with the kit.  Not one.  I started of doing only trailing edge strokes for safety (and going SLOWLY) but within a couple weeks and just a handful of knives, I’m pretty comfortable doing trailing and leading edge strokes with some decent speed as long as I don’t try to cover the entire length of longer knives like a chef knife–those I just work in sections, keeping work even across the length.

If you have bad binding with the universal joint arms, maybe there is an issue with your specific set?  I have no experience with the ball joint arms.

[BarmanBean]

Thanks guys.  I’ll continue to fiddle around with a sharpie and moving my knives around.  I have a 60x magnifier on the way that should help–it’s honestly quite hard to be sure that all the sharpie is being removed without some magnification (and probably better lighting overall).

I did a couple shorter santoku knives (fairly flat edge profile) that turned out pretty well.  I think my stones are definitely still breaking in.

[BarmanBean]

I’m definitely not in a big rush and fine with taking things slow.  Fiddled around with the knife I sharpened the other day and it’s pretty impressive even after just 10min or so worth of work.  Had a cherry tomato and the same type of knife dragged across it does nothing.  Sharpened knife goes right through without even adding any pressure.  Wife is convinced

 

Base shows up tonight, that should make the whole system much nicer to work with.

[Author]

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