Scott Babineaux
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04/28/2013 at 1:07 am #11217
I can’t speak to many of your listed choices but I do have the Bark River Bravo-1 in A2 tool steel. With the exception of very high end hand made knives; the finish on this knife is unsurpassed. The attention to detail is flawless. You wont find better in a production blade.
10/25/2012 at 7:34 am #6648I saw the same thing and it turned out I got one of the kits with a bad heat treatment and my vice jaws were actually bending. Hopefully that is not the case here.
07/10/2012 at 9:08 am #3946Clay,
In the event you decide not to continue to carry the 1200/1600 ceramics; how will you proceed with their replacement? I have a pair coming for warranty replacement.
06/19/2012 at 1:25 am #3588You can put me down for a set of those new pivot arms when they become available. :woohoo:
06/11/2012 at 8:50 am #3458Sorry to hear about your injury Dennis. I’ve done the same thing myself reaching for my computer mouse to update my knife database. WEP was between me and the mouse with one of my kitchen knives mounted. Got a nice scar on the very edge of my hand opposite my thumb. Luckily it was shallow and did not bleed at all; super glue worked for me.
Cheers.
06/01/2012 at 7:35 am #3402I just got my Bark River Bravo 1 in the mail. I have to say it is beyond question the best production knife I have every received. Beautiful near full convex grind that is perfect from tip to choil. And as sharp or sharper than I get from my WEPS.
More to follow.
05/30/2012 at 12:39 am #3368I have a Bark River Bravo 1 in A2 steel on the way as well. Looking forward to it.
05/30/2012 at 12:12 am #3366I like the Aegis but had to reprofile it from 18 to 22; the edge rolls much too easily for what I paid for it. But live and learn; the steel does matter. I just picked up the Griptillion and am curious to see how the D2 steel holds up.
05/29/2012 at 11:33 pm #3364Here are some of mine:
FNP 45 Tactical
Glock 21SFSOG Aegis
Kershaw Ken Onion Leek – Sandvik 14C28N stainless stee,Love this knife
Benchmade Griptildion – D2 steel05/16/2012 at 1:48 am #3199How about a spot for a picture for reference and comparison. Not of the edge but the entire knife.
04/17/2012 at 7:34 am #2807Assuming the blade is not full flat or an extreme hollow grind and you have good flat spine; it could be the vise. That’s exactly how I first noticed that I got one of the vises with a bad heat treatment. The longer I used it worse it got.
03/31/2012 at 11:08 am #233203/23/2012 at 9:39 pm #2163Jerry,
Some people, myself included have found that wrapping the spine of full flat and hollow grind knives with chamois works well. A little experimentation with multiple folds will usually allow you to find a way to “backfill” the space between the knife and the vice to keep the edge centered and held firmly. You may not be able to pick up the WEPS base and all by the knife handle but it does the job.
I can’t speak to double edge blades as they are illegal in Texas and I don’t own any. I suspect that you could probably use chamois and place the widest part of the blade in the vice but that would possibly result in the exposed edge being too low in the vice to sharpen. Perhaps the low angle attachment that Clay is developing would solve this.
Welcome to my obsession!:blink:
03/22/2012 at 5:06 am #2152The first one I tested was from Sonic; but I found the corner store down the street from me had the same one. They are the larger/longer ones for larger drinks About 10 inches long and red.
As I split them lengthwise I am not concerned about the ID and these are larger than the opening for the paddles so they actually “spring open” when inserted into the paddles.
On average the ID of the paddles is 0.270 inches while the swing arms are 0.235 leaving 0.035 “play. The walls of these straws are 0.007 inches thick; so inserting the staw “closes up” the paddles to about 0.255; reducing the “play” by about half. Leaving 0.020 inches free space which seems to work perfect. As stated in my previous post I am now trimming the straws about 1/8 inch so that there is no overlap. On two paddles I believe this is causing a “slight” bind that I can feel but goes away with a drop of oil.
Hope this helps.
03/21/2012 at 3:51 am #2139One update; I am now cutting a narrow strip off the straw after splitting them so that there is no overlap after they are inserted into the paddles. In two cases it seems that the overlap causes them to be a bit too tight and they drag a bit when used. A drop of oil takes care of it but I’ll most likely redo those two.
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