Steve

[Steve]

think I’ve got it sussesed matey.   Tried it last night with my PM2 and Native 5 both with S30v and S35VN steel.  I think because this steel is ,ugh harder the VG10 it takes longer to form a sharp Micro bevel. I first tried 10 stokes per side and felt the edge…..not very good, tried another 10 strokes Nd it was better, tried 20 another 20 and it was better, did a load more and it was spot on, lightly stropped a few times and the both came out like a razor.  Will see how it goes pal.

 

thanks

 

 

steve

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dulledge

[Steve]

Yes mate I use the same method

[Steve]

dulledge wrote:

Steve wrote:

Hope you enjoy the photos. Steve

I did enjoy your photos. Your main bevel and micro bevel are beautiful! Thank you for posting them! I noticed that you used android cell phone and your pics are excellent. Which microscope and software did you use? Are you happy with it? Do you know anything that is better then that?

 

Hiya buddy, thanks for you positive comments, cheers.

 

Yes I use Samsung S7 phone with jus this https://www.amazon.com/BlueDot-Trading-Magnified-Jewellers-Loupe/dp/B00MMP6VRW.  Works very well and cheap also.

 

Cheers   Steve

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dulledge

[Steve]

One thing I really like about using a micro bevel is that you do not have to touch the main bevel and remove unnecessary material to sharpen the knife unless it becomes damaged or in poor condition etc.

Put the knife in the clamp, use the angle cube to get a few measuresments of the angle of the blade in the clamp, do a little math and boom, a quick and easy touch up of the micro bevel at a precise 20 dps in seconds for a returned razor sharp knife that lasts very well.

 

Steve

[Steve]

OK thanks ks Clay, what method is best used. I’ve got a ultrasonic cleaner if that is recommended.  What’s your recommendation  mate.

 

Steve

[Steve]

Here you go buddy.  What do you think?

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[Steve]

OK guys. Here is a photo through a jewlers loop.  From what I can see there seem to be plenty of diamond stones left on the plate.

 

Can some confirm that what is seen it the photo is the metal plate with plenty of diamond stones remaining in it?

 

What’s your thoughts folks?

 

Steve

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[Steve]

OK thanks for that mate.  I think I have worn the diamonds of the plate then.  I think I have reprofiled a lot of knives with the 100 grit and that is probably what has worn the 100 out.

 

Does that sound right to you buddy?

 

Steve

[Steve]

Just bad another look boys.  The 100 grit stones look and feel smoother then the 200 grit stones. They actually feel smooth against a blade when in the clamp.

 

There seems to be plenty of meat on the stone but not sure that means any thing.

I take it that the whole grit on the plastic  handles us not the whole grinding material or is it.  Should thay wear all the way down to the plastic to wear it out?

 

[Steve]

Hi guys, just and update.

 

Today I have put the knife on my WE.

 

I’ve matched the factory bevel which is now and was near 15 degrees per side.

 

I have finished it with the 1000 grit stones and it’s is hair popping sharp and better then the factory edge.

 

I really wanted to take it through a couple more stages and take it through the strops and make it a mirror polished finish but I was worried as I didn’t want to reck the awsome edge that I had.

 

From my experience the mirror polished edges are all but useless unless you want to slash phone book paper all day long.

 

As much as I love the look of a mirror polished blades they are useless though.

 

Let’s see how long this edge with the S30 steel last hey guys? It was defiantly harder to sharpend.

Steve

[Steve]

Hey Cheers thanks guys for your comments so far.

 

I’ll have a play with it whalebone it looses it’s edge and see what bevel angles are with the angle cube  etc

 

2 of my friend ls have just bought a Endura 4 FFG and they were both very very close to 15 dps.  We have just been experimenting on what grit finish is best for long lasting performance between  600 and 1000 grit.  Still to be confirmed.

 

Thanks so far fellas

 

 

Steve

[Steve]

Hi guys, wow thanks for the in depth replies, very much appreciated.

Yeh its a Spyderco Endure 4 FFG blade with VG10 steel.

I have it sharpened to a 20dps edge and it sharpens up lovley, super sharp!  I have not been chopping through bine but slicing up pheasant and duck breasts, no bone cutting etc.  I tried the other night, I had it super super sharp, shaving hair and slashing phone book paper with ease, chopped up 3 pheasant breasts with no bone etc and tried the shaving and phone book paper ted and it would do neither.  Both bevels are defiantly  even and meat in space, it sharpens really easy, its just as if the blade wont hold and edge.  I am really thinking that the plastic kitchen chopping board may have something to do with it as it is hard plastic and when pushing through the meat you can feel the resistance cutting through the board, basically I’m starting to think that it is like cutting against a wall or concrete floor etc, same sort of thing I suppose!  Ill try and give the board a miss.

 

Like I said I really like the look and the way a 1000 grit finish cuts stuff from hair on arms, phone book paper and meat etc, just wish I could get it to last lol.

 

Ill give it another try and see if I can make heads nor tales out of it.  Ill try removing the chopping board from the equation to start from.

 

Thanks for your help guys, much appreciated.

 

Steve

[Steve]

<!–more–>You know what, you may be onto Somthing there.  Perhaps the plastic chopping board is dulling the edge, the knife does seem to bite into it and cause a lot of drag. I’ll dig out my other chopping board and see that makes any difference.

Like I said I really love the 1000 grit edge but only if it would last.

 

Thanks fellas

 

 

Steve

[Steve]

Thanks for your reply buddy.  I’ve had a real good play tonight and I’m still a bit lost tbh.   I tried a 1000 grit edge, it looked lovely and slashed news paper effortleesly, I chopped up two pheasant breaststroke and diced then up on a site plastic chopping board.  After two pheasant breast it would no longer slash paper and would not shave the hair on my air.  It’s as if the edge just blunten very easily.  The knives is a Spyderco Endura 4 with VG10 steel so is should be better then that.  I also tried it with a minor bevel as per one of Clays youtube video’s, I must have done Somthing wrong as it was just not sharp.

Or am I expecting to much, is this just normal, I mean the knife is still very sharp etc but I thought ams would like it to stay as sharp as it was for much longer.  I’ve heared of people skinning 2 elk before Thierry knife needs a touch up, I can bairly do 2 chicken breasts lol.

 

Any help guys?

 

Many thanks

 

Steve

 

[Steve]

tcmeyer wrote:

Organic is referring to a method of achieving a thin edge (use a rather low angle for the main bevel) and then making it more resistant to dings and chips by making a very few passes at the apex with a higher setting. For instance, for some of my kitchen knives, I sharpen and polish to a 17 dps edge, then take maybe three very light strokes on each side with my 1000 grit stones set at 20 dps. The resulting microbevel is almost invisible to the unaided eye, but the overall performance is improved. You get the low cutting resistance of the polished 17 dps bevels, but the chip resistance and toothiness of the 20 dps 1000 grit apex.

 

Cheers thanks for that matey, I get what you are saying.  I actually watched a youtube video clip yesterday with Clay, he did very similar to what you suggested, he done the primary bevel at at 15 dps to a stropped finish and then he changed the angle to 20 dps and gave a couple of passes with the 200 grit stones to gain the toothy edge.

Ill have a play around guys, any other advise would be greatly appreciated thanks fellas.

 

 

Steve

 

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Mark76

[Author]

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