unable to create burr with 100 grit stones
- This topic has 11 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 02/18/2017 at 6:53 am by
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I don’t use my 100/200s except where I’m trying to reprofile an edge or trying to remove some serious damage. For that matter, I don’t use the burr as an indicator of establishing an apex. In any case, I wouldn’t look for a burr until I use my 400s. In fact, I try to not touch the apex with the 100s or 200s, as they can create some divots in the apex that are really difficult to remove with finer grits,
When presented with an edge that has some serious damage, it’s good practice to file the edge flat to the point where the deepest dings are completely leveled out. While this seems to be illogical, it actually saves you quite a bit of effort as there is simply less steel to be removed. If the resulting flat is so wide that the 400s don’t seem to be making progress, drop back to the 200s (or if needed, the 100s), but try not to cut into what you feel is the apex line. It’s when these coarser stones hit the weakened strength of an apex that they can tear out chunks that will be difficult to remove.
The answer to your question? Don’t look for a burr with your 100s. If you get one, you’ve probably gone too far.
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I agree with TCMEYER! Based on his advice long ago I too started “Filing” the edge flat on significantly damaged edges first. I don’t think it illogical at all, Why waste time reaching the apex until all the damage is removed. I would get a pocket microscope or loupe if your really interested and inspect your edge frequently throughout the sharpening process. You will actually see this for yourself. With the 100’s and the 80’s and even the 200’s these are really course “work horses” for quickly removing material. WARNING for future readers; “Most knifes never need to go that course”! They are, however, a great time saver for those who frequently repair damaged edges “Actually repairing the edge and not just sharpening it”. These are actually two different procedures. On most well taken care of knives, starting with the 400’s is enough. When we say “re-profile”, we mean “Changing the angle” which requires a lot of metal removal and thus requires a course grit to do it in a timely fashion. When repairing a damaged edge you might need to go a little more course, however, for most people using the basic WE stones will do the sharpening task nicely. In fact, once a knife is sharpened on a WE, in most cases, you can keep it that way with the lapping films or leather with diamond paste and never use the diamond stones.. Inspecting your edge with a loupe will give you whole new perspective on sharpening
I would add after re-reading your post; If you are getting a burr at 200, you have established your apex and are right on track. Just keep progressing and don’t look back. Your 100’s are probably tearing the burr off or “chucking off metal” with each pass. If you keep grinding away, your removing too much metal and are reducing the life of your blade. Getting the burr at 200 Says; “You have “sharpened” the edge, now you just need to refine it and polish the the bevel.
Eddie Kinlen
M1rror Edge Sharpening Service, LLC
+1(682)777-1622I don’t disagree with the above, but it doesn’t answer the question on testing your 100g stones.
First, how old are they? The 100g can be the first to wear out, since, for most sharpenings… they do the most work.
To test, I would take a “beater” knife (one you can experiment on). Divide the knife with a Sharpie, and also mark the edge. Run the edge 90 deg. on a fine stone (so that it’s uniformity dull… just a few strokes). Then, set the angle so that you’re equal to the current bevel, or slightly favoring the shoulder. Then scrub one section with the 100g stone, and the other with the 200g stone (straight up and down)… and see which section reaches the edge and/or creates a burr first. Keep everything consistent (stroke speed, pressure, etc.), and check often, so you can see when you get a burr. Don’t apply too much pressure… let the stones do the work. (Set it up like this)…
If the 200g stones “win” by a significant margin… then I would say it’s either time for a new set of 100g stones, or, if they’re new, maybe contact WE and see if there’s an issue with the stones.
Only other suggestion, and you may want to do this first, is clean your stones… make sure the 100g isn’t clogged up. This can also keep it from cutting well.
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Are you keeping them clean? How many knives have you used your 100 vs 200’s on?
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Your 100’s are probably tearing the burr off or “chucking off metal” with each pass.
I’ll agree with M1rrorEdge on his theory of why the 100’s don’t seem to create a burr, especially with such new stones. A burr is a weakened edge which will roll over to the opposite side. A really coarse grit could possibly rip such a loosely attached section of steel free from its anchor point. This also seems to me to be possibly dependent on the qualities of the steel.
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Yeah I agree with Curtis, you can definitely get a burr with the 100/200’s,I do it all the time when reprofiling (because as you stated most factory edges are not even from side to side). That being said it takes me about 15-20 min to reprofile an average 3.5″ folder blade to 15 dps with the 100’s. I don’t have the 50/80’s.
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