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Play between the rods and the stone handles

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Viewing 11 posts - 1 through 11 (of 11 total)
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  • #19996
    Gustav Highstein
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 4

    Has anyone else experienced play between the rods (I have the pro-pack 2 upgrade in case this makes a difference) and the stone handles (which slide down over the rods)? Does this worry anyone else? I am afraid that this play is affecting the accuracy of any angle I set and rounding out the edges to some degree. Is there anything which can be done to minimize this. My kit isn’t old enough for this to be much of a wear and tear issue. With the handles at the bottom position (as close to the base as possible) there is about 0.15 degree of play. When the handles are up as high as I use them extended when sharpening (2.5 inches conservatively) I get about 1.0 degree of play. This seems like way too much to be optimal. Any ideas? Thanks!

    #19997
    Mikedoh
    Moderator
    • Topics: 38
    • Replies: 570
    #20053
    Gustav Highstein
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 4

    I would be willing to pay for paddles which included a bearing (or another technical solution to this issue) such as the ones discussed on the other thread referred to on this issue – I bet many others would as well. I do think that it is a genuine problem – even if it can be accommodated by changes in ones technique. That said the technique suggested improves things considerably for me – in my hands using the recommended position the slop is reduced to about 0.15 degrees difference between the top and bottom. Still, I hope that WE will consider producing an upgrade to the paddles with bearing loaded paddles or some other technical way of minimizing this issue. In this way those who need the help would have an equipment solution.

    #20056
    tcmeyer
    Participant
    • Topics: 38
    • Replies: 2095

    I’ll be glad to share with you the method I used for adding bushings to my rods. Send your e-mail address to my private message box and I’ll send you a detailed description of how I did mine.

    That said, I have to say that I’ve been pretty anal about the slop thing, but there are a lot of guys making perfect bevels without upgraded blocks. I had made several sets of glass blocks so I could use abrasive film. They had bushings and were so much better I was immediately convinced that I had to upgrade my WE blocks as well.

    There is a learning curve with the WE system and the general feeling is that it takes 20 – 30 knives before you should expect top shelf results. When you understand how the slop is hurting you, you can take measures to reduce the impact. Constant force applied in a consistent manner is a big step. For me, a handheld microscope as part of my bench top was (and is) a big factor in reducing errors.

    I just found three pm messages from May which I didn’t know were there! I wish they had a flag to tell you that you have a new message. As it is now, you have to go to your own profile page just to check for messages. I’ll have to try to check more often.

    BTW, as you’d see in the thread Markdoh posted, the amount of slop you are seeing is typical, not abnormal.

    #20059
    Josh
    Participant
    • Topics: 89
    • Replies: 1672

    I would suggest having longer rods made… mine are about 10″ from the top of the screw to the tip of the rod, whereas the stock ones are only about 8″. Tom and others actually have 12″ rods, which I would consider just about perfect (11-12″ range would be ideal). This will eliminate your paddle going off of the tip of the rod and changing your angle.

    you can make your own or get with Bob Nash at Oldawan Tools and he can help you.

    #20060
    Mikedoh
    Moderator
    • Topics: 38
    • Replies: 570

    “I just found three pm messages from May which I didn’t know were there! I wish they had a flag to tell you that you have a new message. As it is now, you have to go to your own profile page just to check for messages. I’ll have to try to check more often.”

    Don’t know if it’s still works, but near the upper right hand area of the page, there is/was a little “beacon” pulsating when you have a pm by the words “private messages”.
    I’ll send you one so you can have a look-see.

    #20061
    blacksheep25
    Participant
    • Topics: 2
    • Replies: 68

    Regarding the messages, the other thing you can so is have the system send you an email when you get a message (default is no notification). It’s the settings link at the bottom of the message area:

    E-mail notification
    Receive e-mail notifications of new private messages.
    ( )E-mail notification of new messages
    ( )E-mail notification when offline
    (*) No e-mail notification
    [ ]Don’t send notification of replies

    #20062
    Mark76
    Participant
    • Topics: 179
    • Replies: 2760

    The email notification for new pm’s is currently not working. Unless someone has fixed it recently…

    Has the blinking beakon disappeared as well? I wasn’t aware of that.

    It’s a bit annoying. You have to look pretty hard for your pm’s. But it works.

    Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge

    #20064
    Mikedoh
    Moderator
    • Topics: 38
    • Replies: 570

    Mark
    Just sent you a pm to test beacon. Does it work.

    #20065
    Mark76
    Participant
    • Topics: 179
    • Replies: 2760

    Thanks Mike. Nope, the beacom has indeed disappeared. I do see a text saying I have 1 new pm, though. In the upper-right corner, where it normally says “private messages”.

    Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge

    #20066
    Mikedoh
    Moderator
    • Topics: 38
    • Replies: 570

    Thanks Mark. Now we know our WE alert.

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