new arms

[Robert Borowski]

Hey guys before anyone orders these you really should check to see if their currents arm bar is in spec.

To do this just look from the front so you are looking at the sides with the holes. You know you will need a new bar if you see a belly under the bar pointing toward the wood or whatever you have it mounted on.
Good luck!

This is very obvious in M0DiFiEDZ new YouTube video he released yesterday.

“Installing the New Wicked Edge Ball Joint Arms”

Here is a pic from that.[/quote]

Good shot, I didn’t see the vid but that pictures shows it really well. Like I said check yours before your order!

[Chris]

I filed the INSIDE of the slider to make them fit.

I am not sure how much more we can ask for.

I guess it is good for folks to have a heads up on the issue… just in case. I know that I was a bit disillusioned when I could not install my new arms…

Phil

Phil

The new arms black “slider” must have a tighter tolerance, as the older blue ones work OK with the bulging bar.

It would be natural to think the new slider was the cause, as they appeared to introduce the problem.

I feel sorry for Clay, as he is trying to release a new model, but also trying to keep an upgrade option available for existing owners.

I see there seems to be some variation with the arm holes in the stones which was also fine with the earlier (thinner) arms, but now the newer thicker arms don’t fit in some.
So another problem is introduced and not an easy fix, as many stones are already out there.

I will adapt a slightly larger diameter arm and thread it to fit the joint.
Then drill all my stones to an exact fit.

edit – But that’s just me being pedantic. 😉
I’m sure a light ream would fix any stone that is tight?

[Phil Pasteur]

Just curious, where did this come from? I read it last night and just had to know. I got out every one of my 34 individual paddles and tried them on the new arms (both sides just to be sure). I did not find any to be too tight. I know that this is a small sample, but they have been purchased at various time over more than 1.5 years.

Do you have the new arms now? Actually have paddles that are too tight or bind on the new arms?

Again, just curious, as I had not heard this talked about before now.

Phil

[Chris]

Hi Philip,
I don’t have the new arms yet, but have ordered them today.

I have no problem buying any of Wicked Edges products.

If you watched the video I refered to above, then read the comments on that page, you will see where he replies to me about stones not fitting on the “new” arms.

From what you say, it might not be a widespread problem.
I can notice a difference between my stones with a straw over the original arms.
But my comments are not based on that.

Attachments:

• Tight.jpg

[wickededge]

The stone holders are created by injection molding and an air piston is used to create the hole. Depending on the cooling rate, there can be some minor expansion/shrinkage of the plastic. The other potential cause are the screws holding the trays to the black plastic piece – if they’re over-tightened in production, they can cause the plastic to bulge slightly toward the hole making it tighter. A quick ream with a rat tail file does the trick. It’s an issue we hear almost nothing about these days though it used to crop up a few years ago. I’ve looked at installing a brass sleeve inside each of the handles that fits the rod incredibly closely but still slides smoothly. It turned out to be prohibitively expensive and the performance improvement was minimal.

-Clay

[Chris]

It’s an issue we hear almost nothing about these days though it used to crop up a few years ago.

Thanks for the detail Clay, I’m sure it’s not a big deal.

Perhaps it has only reared it’s head again with the increased diameter of the new, thicker rods supplied with the new arms?

Or maybe just with older stones/paddles?

Either way, I can’t wait to get hold of these new arms. 😉

[wickededge]

Yes – a while back we reduced the thickness of the arms to allow for the variation in the handles. The new rods are thicker to answer the feedback we’d been getting about too much play. I like the thicker arms and just reaming the whole a little as a solution because it eliminates most of the play.

It’s an issue we hear almost nothing about these days though it used to crop up a few years ago.

Thanks for the detail Clay, I’m sure it’s not a big deal.

Perhaps it has only reared it’s head again with the increased diameter of the new, thicker rods supplied with the new arms?

Or maybe just with older stones/paddles?

Either way, I can’t wait to get hold of these new arms. ;)[/quote]

-Clay

[Chris]

The new rods are thicker

Do you have a measurement for the new rods Clay?
Then I can start my search for a rubber boot.

My Mitutoyo Digital Calipers read 5.15mm for the older rods.

[wickededge]

The new rods are thicker

Do you have a measurement for the new rods Clay?
Then I can start my search for a rubber boot.

My Mitutoyo Digital Calipers read 5.15mm for the older rods.[/quote]

I get 6.31mm on my Mitutoyos 🙂

-Clay

[Phil Pasteur]

The new rods are thicker

Do you have a measurement for the new rods Clay?
Then I can start my search for a rubber boot.

My Mitutoyo Digital Calipers read 5.15mm for the older rods.[/quote]

I would think that you would want the top of the boot to fit lower on the assembly. Probably below the locking nut on the top part of the joint itself… below where the rod screws in. I did a quick measurement with some cheap plastic calipers and did not read tenths. Seems like it was about 11 mm. I was concerned about getting the boot over the nut for some stupid reason and measured it at about 12 mm. In retrospect I came to the amazing conclusion that all I had to do was remove the arm and locking nut…
:blink:
Please correct that if I am off Clay.

Phil

[wickededge]

Sounds about right. How about fitting the boot on between the nut and the rod end joint?

The new rods are thicker

Do you have a measurement for the new rods Clay?
Then I can start my search for a rubber boot.

My Mitutoyo Digital Calipers read 5.15mm for the older rods.[/quote]

I would think that you would want the top of the boot to fit lower on the assembly. Probably below the locking nut on the top part of the joint itself… below where the rod screws in. I did a quick measurement with some cheap plastic calipers and did not read tenths. Seems like it was about 11 mm. I was concerned about getting the boot over the nut for some stupid reason and measured it at about 12 mm. In retrospect I came to the amazing conclusion that all I had to do was remove the arm and locking nut…
:blink:
Please correct that if I am off Clay.

Phil[/quote]

-Clay

[Phil Pasteur]

This is what I was looking at

So yes, that is ..I think.. what I was trying to say. The top of the collar of the boot would be below the nut and the body of the boot would stretch to cover the entire joint and have another collar (nipple ??) at 90 degrees to seal the exit for the horizontal part of the joint.
The only problem I see is getting the thing stretched over the whole joint… and maybe how much friction it would cause in the movement of the joint.

Phil

[Chris]

That’s the ultimate option.

http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r520/mandrake50/boot.jpg

[D K]

Sorry to barge in off topic! I placed an order about two weeks ago for the new arms and have yet to be charged for them or hear anything about it. I have placed two phone calls along with an email over the past week inquiring about the status and have yet to hear anything back from anyone which I feel is quite uncommon. Did anyone else run into similar problems? Maybe I need to be more patient?

[Ken Buzbee]

They are back ordered a couple weeks.

Ken

[Author]

Posts