motion and range of movement for WE GO
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I just got my wicked edge go and tried sharpening knife with it and so far I am impressed with the precision and build quality but I have a few concerns and questions I am hoping someone could answer. I am coming from an edge pro type sharpener where I can produce a very even scratch pattern from heel to tip by using edge leading strokes from heel to tip, aside from looking nice this is supposed to point the micro serrations towards the cut and make it slice better. I understand the typical wicked edge motion is to do alternation edge trailing strokes but this seems to produce a scratch pattern that looks strange to me and should in theory be worse for slicing cuts. My main issue is I tried doing the same edge leading strokes as on an edge pro but found it very difficult on the wicked edge go because the length of the vice and rods do not allow me to use the entire length of the diamonds, so I cannot go from heel to tip in one stroke. Is there any solution for this such as a vice spacer and maybe longer rods? What type of motion do you all use? My other questions is how does everyone how about sharpening Spyderco knives, is it better to dremel off the plastic on the stones or to cut a sharpening choil into the knife?
Welcome to the Wicked Edge Forum and Community Anton.
I will start with warning you to be very careful when using edge leading strokes with your Wicked Edge. You are pulling the stone down on and against the exposed knife edge and anything dangling will get cut. I know that from personal experience. That being said, I do use edge leading strokes most of the time. I utilize WE Safety Shields when sharpening. They aren’t necessary just my preference.
There are no upgrades of any kind, at this time, for the WEGO model. To do your preferred heel to tip, edge leading strokes you can do it breaking up the knife’s length into two or three shorter sections. Then go back to the overlap places and blend them in. It works quite well once you get the hang of it.
Both methods are used for the Spyderco knives. I have heard some users make a permanent sharpening choil just forward of the ricasso with a dremmel tool. I would prefer for safety reasons to keep the plastic on my stones.
Marc
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Thanks for the warning Im sure it could be easy to get quick and confident and slip up. In the mean time I might try to make a 1 inch riser for the clamp which would let me use the whole stone and achieve lower angles on small blades. I saw there are upgrade kits for other wicked edge models which include some kind of riser block for the vise, it looks like the exact type of thing I would need, any chance you know if those blocks would fit the go or could be easily made to fit the go? thanks
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There are no upgrades for the WEGO, at this time.
For me it’s hard to maintain an edge leading, parallel, scratch pattern from heel to tip, while maintaining constant contact between the diamond stone and the knife edge, as the guide rod swings through it’s arc of rotation, as the stone slides done the rod, without the scratch pattern becoming somewhat longitudinal or at least more horizontal in it’s direction. Especially if the knives have any length to them. This is why I do my knives in sections. I have 3 different model WEPS, two with both riser blocks and extra long guide rods and I still do the edge leading strokes broken up in sections to maintain the slanted parallel scratch pattern that’s preferred to enhance the cutting ability.
Marc
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Welcome Anton
When I have to sharpen a knife in stages or sections and blend the bevel, I draw a sharpie line down from bevel toward the spine on each side of the blade at the junction point.
This way I have a visual mark for my sharpening strokes.
Ed K.
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Anton, I stand corrected. Wicked Edge longer guide rods are comptible with the WE GO. There is not a riser block offered. You’d have to make your own modification.
Marc
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I use edge-leading strokes for all diamond or ceramic stones. Where I need to remove a lot of steel, I’ll often use scrubbing strokes. Of course, for film or strops, I’ll use edge trailing strokes.
I try to always grip the handles near the bottom, so as to keep the fingers and the application of pressure below the knife edge. I’ve never suffered an injury (cut) as a result of how I was holding the handles. Most cuts have been a result of catching the tip of the knife when retracting my hand from beyond the knife.
When you are developing muscle memory for the motion of your sharpening strokes, exaggerate the swing away from the edge on the return stroke. When viewed from above, the motion should be “D” shaped for your right hand, and the opposite for your left, regardless of whether the stroke is edge leading or edge trailing.
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