Manix 2 Advanced Sharpening Guide Placement with Pro 3 2017 ?
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I will be getting my first Manix 2 and I was wondering if any folk here have the placement for it using the Advanced Sharpening Guide with a Pro 3 2017? The steel will be Maxamet but I do not think that would alter the placement of the blade on the sharpening guide but ??
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Clay has that exact knife. Hopefully he will respond.
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I do have the Manix 2 though I don’t remember exactly the settings I used. I think that I set the spine on both prongs of the Depth Key in the top holes of the vise and I clamp the blade so that the forward 1/3 of the Spyder Hole is covered by the jaws. I tend to sharpen those at around 16 dps and then add a 20 dps micro-bevel. If you can wait until tomorrow, I can grab mine from home and confirm my settings, otherwise you can try those and tinker a little with a marker and fine stone to get the “sweet spot” figured out.
-Clay
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Indeed I will surely wait as my Manix 2 is arriving before 8 PM Friday… Thank you Clay.
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I received my Manix 2 today and looking forward to putting a WE on it. It is by itself incredibly sharp from the factory and I can not wait to see how the WE and its diamonds, ceramics and strops refine this edge after I position it correctly.
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I received my Manix 2 today and looking forward to putting a WE on it. It is by itself incredibly sharp from the factory and I can not wait to see how the WE and its diamonds, ceramics and strops refine this edge after I position it correctly.
Cmyhero, welcome to the forum, May I make a suggestion from a happy well experienced Wicked Edge User? Before just clamping the new knife and sharpening it, look at the edge under magnification, if you’re able to. See the type and shape edge the manufacturer has sharpened your knife with. Identify if the bevels are even or uneven. Identify any defects. Look at the shape, pattern and direction of the grind.
Then use the knife with the edge you received it. That way you have a basis for comparison, to compare your sharpened edge to, when you do sharpen it. Otherwise the only edge you’ll ever know and will ever be able to compare is your edge you sharpened on it. You’ll never know what a Manix 2 out-of-the-box cuts and feel like.
Also from what I know about the Manix 2 and what I have learned about many of my high-end “super steel” chef’s knives is they come very sharp from the knife smith. Many of these knives I’ve used for 6-8 months before all they needed was a quick touch up.
When I first started with WE I immediately clamped and sharpened everything. I bought new knife after new knife. Clamped them then sharpened them. I missed the opportunity to feel a new sharp knife how it was made to feel. I no longer want to miss these opportunities. I know I’m a better knife sharpener having experienced knives first how they were made to feel. Not just how I make them feel.
Lastly when I layout sometimes upwards of $500 on a knife I want to use every last micron of metal it comes with, not just grind some away because I think it may be unnecessary or not needed!
Marc
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Hi Mark,, thank you the knife is very sharp out of the box… it is shaving arm/leg hair sharp and I am using it a bit but I want it to cut phone paper almost silently.
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Hi Marc, thank you the knife is very sharp out of the box… it is shaving arm/leg hair sharp and I am using it a bit but I want it to cut phone paper almost silently.
I feel you, some knives do better with a little toothiness, that is, they will make a little noise. Try to look at the ground edge under magnification, now, while you can. You’ll never have this opportunity again…they’re only new once. Then you’ll know what that original edge looks like. Especially, if your not as happy with your sharpened edge and you’re trying to get it more like it was, when it was new. You might also try to take it to a leather strop first, before using any stones. That often helps fix the edge, reduces some of the toothiness and makes it cut better.
Marc
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I received my Manix 2 today and looking forward to putting a WE on it. It is by itself incredibly sharp from the factory and I can not wait to see how the WE and its diamonds, ceramics and strops refine this edge after I position it correctly.
Cmyhero, welcome to the forum, May I make a suggestion from a happy well experienced Wicked Edge User? Before just clamping the new knife and sharpening it, look at the edge under magnification, if you’re able to. See the type and shape edge the manufacturer has sharpened your knife with. Identify if the bevels are even or uneven. Identify any defects. Look at the shape, pattern and direction of the grind. Then use the knife with the edge you received it. That way you have a basis for comparison, to compare your sharpened edge to, when you do sharpen it. Otherwise the only edge you’ll ever know and will ever be able to compare is your edge you sharpened on it. You’ll never know what a Manix 2 out-of-the-box cuts and feel like. Also from what I know about the Manix 2 and what I have learned about many of my high-end “super steel” chef’s knives is they come very sharp from the knife smith. Many of these knives I’ve used for 6-8 months before all they needed was a quick touch up. When I first started with WE I immediately clamped and sharpened everything. I bought new knife after new knife. Clamped them then sharpened them. I missed the opportunity to feel a new sharp knife how it was made to feel. I no longer want to miss these opportunities. I know I’m a better knife sharpener having experienced knives first how they were made to feel. Not just how I make them feel. Lastly when I layout sometimes upwards of $500 on a knife I want to use every last micron of metal it comes with, not just grind some away because I think it may be unnecessary or not needed!
What an excellent post. I too have made the same mistakes. Thanks Marc!
Alan
cmyhero, I have found more times then not the knife is ground asymmetrically. Also the bevels are often inconsistent, on each side, down the length of the knife. After all, many are hand made. The important part to making the knife sharp is how the two sides meet at the apex; the knife’s edge. I don’t know if the accuracy in the grind or precision you expected to see or assumed would be there is necessarily realistic. It certainly isn’t necessary or required for it to be a very fine, expensive, sharp knife. I used to be quite surprised to see that such a coarse or roughly executed grind job could result in such a sharp good cutting knife. This is the reason I wanted you, and every one else, to take a look at their newly purchased knives, right out-of-the box.
What you learned is what I wanted you to learn and experience. Now you know what you started with. I wanted you to see the distinct evenness of the grind pattern and the direction and angle of the grind pattern. I’m guessing using a 3 micron diamond stone, (which you had asked if it was a good starting place), will result in a much finer scratch pattern than came from the maker, new. Then when you have at it and change the edge you’ll learn if it helps or hinders the knife’s cutting characteristics.
If we don’t take the time to do this, now, when we can, we don’t have any basis for comparison. After gaining some experience from sharpening a few different knives, I now try to photograph the bevel of a new knife, with a USB Microscope. What really can be surprising is how different two of the same exact model knives can appear when brand new, out-of-the-box. Especially when I’ve tried them both and they both are very sharp and cut really well. It leaves me to wonder what aspect of sharpening is actually important to gain a truly sharp durable edge and is that in line with what my preconceived conceptions?
Marc
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Wow.. I am experiencing something new for me but I am sure not others. I put the Manix 2 in at the coordinates (15.85 deg) Clay gave and I marked the bevels and checked both sides and they are 15.85 and then using a high grit stone the marker is removed easily on the right but on the left it is way down the bevel this would show me that one side of the knife is 2 degrees or more different with this knife. Has anyone else experienced this coming from Golden and what suggestions can you give me? Thank you..
Which model of WE are you using? If you have the older clamp style (non-gen. 3) the knife might be leaning to one side in the clamp.
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