Guidance on Opinel Pocket Knives?

[Ryan]

Everyone in my family has an Opinel pocket knife in either the stainless or carbon. I just received the Pro Pack Upgrade with the new arms and higher vise/clamp. So I’m surmising I can now sharpen this blade.

It is my understanding this is a convex from the factory. So how would I proceed on convex blades that are not overly dull but need a freshening up? Do I use the Sharpie and then work it with a strop? Start with the 1000 diamond, or 1200/1600 ceramics. I don’t have a cdlue where or how to start. Please provide me with some general guidelines to get started. I haven’t tried sharpening a convex yet.

Ryan

[Zamfir]

Why do you want convex? If it were me I would redo the edge to a nice perfect flat bevel. convex bevels are overrated. A convex edge is usually made at the factory because it is just easier to do for them. They do not sharpen on the WE :silly:

[Steven N. Bolin]

Why do you want convex? If it were me I would redo the edge to a nice perfect flat bevel. convex bevels are overrated. A convex edge is usually made at the factory because it is just easier to do for them. They do not sharpen on the WE :silly:

:ohmy: I love a convex edge!

:huh: And, by they are you referring to the individuals at the factory who put edges on the knives, or are you referring to convex edges and the inability to sharpen them on the WE?… The WE definitely handle a convex.
_____________________

Ryan,

You may want to check out the first video posted below. It’s what helped me learn how to convex on the WE…

And here’s what I was able to accomplish after watching Clay’s awesome video…

In terms of maintaining the edge on your Opinel, I’d say the 1200/1600 ceramics will do the job.

[Zamfir]

“they” are the people putting the edge on the blade at the factory. I know the WE can do convex. I just do not see any advantage to having one on a normal knife. If you think it looks sweet then that would be a reason. Functionally I do not see any reason to make one convex on any knife I use.

[Steven N. Bolin]

“they” are the people putting the edge on the blade at the factory. I know the WE can do convex. I just do not see any advantage to having one on a normal knife. If you think it looks sweet then that would be a reason. Functionally I do not see any reason to make one convex on any knife I use.

Ah, ok, gotcha! :side:

[Aaron kimpton]

I have a fair number of opinels, 8,10, etc.

Re profile the edge. They are not often evenly ground. Make them even. Say 17° per side with 19° micro bevel polish out.

[Mark76]

Clay’s video is indeed a very good into to creating convex edges.

Over the years there have been quite a few discussions on it. I did a couple of blog posts on this topic: https://moleculepolishing.wordpress.com/category/convex-edge/

Success! It’s not very difficult.

Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge

[Ryan]

Thanks guys! I’m not questioning or challenging the merits of convex vs V grind. I can go V grind easier than I can convex. And probably do a V grind on my first attempt, then buy another one and try the convex…they’re cheap enough to experiment with.

I just wanted to know if the Opinel will fit in my new Pro Pack upgrade with the taller vice. I’ve not had good luck with the standard vise height and wanted to know if I can sharpen smaller blades now with the upgrade…also what process I should attempt to use if I decide to go with a convex. Thanks.

[CliffCurry]

Aloha Ryan, if you cant get down to the angle you want, even with the upgrade, you could check out the Wicked Edge low angle adapter…or the small knife adapter by Tormek. Between the 2 of them you can get down below 10dps no sweat on most smaller knives.

[Ryan]

So Mark76 if Clay’s video is a good intro to creating convex edges then what is the process to maintain an existing convex? I have a Blind Horse knife that is already convex. It needs a re-sharpening badly. I do not know where to start??? Do I use a sharpie then use a 1000 grit until I start evenly removing marker? Let’s say it is 20 degree or 40 inclusive. Then back off to 22 degree to maintain the convex. I’m totally lost here and do not want to ruin a great convex knife.

[Mark76]

Hi Ryan, I don’t know what the current state of the edge is, but if it needs a touch up, I’d use stropping with cow leather. Maybe first using a coarse compound (like the 14 mu paste), then a finer compound. The advantage of cow leather is that it is fairly thick, so that it forms a bit to the edge. Don’t forget to use an angle about two degrees lower than at which you sharpened the edge of the edge.

If that doesn’t work enough, I’d use the ceramic stones just to sharpen the edge of the edge using a limited number of passes (so you don’t turn the convex edge into a v-bevel).

And if you need even more grinding, you can use the techniques Clay shows in his vid and I describe in my blog. I’d start with finer stones (say, 800 grit diamonds) and only use coarser stones when necessary.

Succes! And plkease let use know how you fare.

Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge

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