Does it stay cleaner
- This topic has 11 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 01/24/2020 at 1:50 pm by
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Eric, from my own experiences, yes, once the diamond stones have broken in, less loose and excess diamond grit is sloughed off from the stone paddles and onto the sharpener. Besides the stone debris, knives being sharpened for the very first time, with the W.E., will yield more steel dust as they are being profiled this first sharpening, then when sharpened during subsequent sharpening touch ups.
I also believe there may be steel dust and residue from the machining processes of the vise’s internal parts that benefit from dismantling and cleaning the vise. A dry teflon lubricant applied to these parts during reassembly will help the parts move more freely.
After that first dismantling and lubricating, it is much longer and farther between needed cleaning and maintenance.
The Wicked Edge is a well made precision machined tool. The W. E. is able to do well , extremely precisely, with great accuracy and repeatedly, what other knife sharpeners fail to. I have found that employing some modifications, adapters and accessories enhances my W.E. sharpeners making them easier to work with. Here are some links to these accessories, (including the dust boots), that many of us W.E. users have found helpful to simplify our sharpening experiences with our W.E. setups.
Marc
(MarcH's Rack-Its)1 user thanked author for this post.
This lubricant has been working well for me for.
Here’s the vise dismantling instructions: WEClampCleaning
Marc
(MarcH's Rack-Its)EXpedia ; I think I have the newest gen 3 clamp on the WE 130
Mike : Using Ballistoll(spelling) on the rods only . Once I clean it up, I’m going to use Hornady drylube a d cover the pivot arms with the RC covers Like MarcH and some others use. I’ve been doing some reading in here. lol
MarcH : Thank you, Found that last night and already downloaded. Hope you don’t mind dumb questions, cuase I’m probably going to have a LOT of growing pains. lol thanks for your help
Just to be clear, I only apply the dry wax lubricants for the inside moving parts in the W.E. vises and on the ball ends, after I wipe all the parts clean to remove any steel dust from sharpening using a clean dry micro-fiber towel. I do not apply anything on the boot covers or any rubber parts. The guide rods I do wipe clean with the dry clean towel first, then a silicone gun rag. I also pull a small wad patch cut from the silicone gun rag, with a string, through the bore holes of the plastic sharpening stone paddles when they seem resistant to slide and rotate around the guide rods while sharpening.
Wiping the guide rods and pulling the silicone wad through the handle bores is the most frequent maintenance process I exercise. This makes a noticeable improvement in sharpening ease.
Marc
(MarcH's Rack-Its)Just to be clear, I only apply the dry wax lubricants for the inside moving parts in the W.E. vises and on the ball ends, after I wipe all the parts clean to remove any steel dust from sharpening using a clean dry micro-fiber towel. I do not apply anything on the boot covers or any rubber parts. The guide rods I do wipe clean with the dry clean towel first, then a silicone gun rag. I also pull a small wad patch cut from the silicone gun rag, with a string, through the bore holes of the plastic sharpening stone paddles when they seem resistant to slide and rotate around the guide rods while sharpening. Wiping the guide rods and pulling the silicone wad through the handle bores is the most frequent maintenance process I exercise. This makes a noticeable improvement in sharpening ease.
I think a bore snake would be great for cleaning the inside of the paddles. You can get them in lengths for pistol/revolver, and most have a soft brass brush, followed by a swab at the end. Clean and lube at the same time.
1 user thanked author for this post.
James, the newest version W.E. plastic paddles are a two piece paddle, glued together, clam-shell like. I also use a bronze brush run through the bore holes to remove any excess glue, extruded from the gluing/assembly process. Some of these new paddles bind slightly or don’t slide freely, on the guide rods. The bronze brush removes this glue residue, well, and resolves that issue.
Marc
(MarcH's Rack-Its)
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