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Custom cut water stones… discussion

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  • #19340
    Josh
    Participant
    • Topics: 89
    • Replies: 1672

    So I am writing this thread in my quest of “the ultimate stone that cuts really fast but doesn’t leave deep scratches” lol (probably not possible, but still!). See, I really like the 50/80s but they do put huge scratches in your bevel that seem to take a while to get out, and even with that being the case, I would still like something a little faster. am I on my own on this or do others feel the same way? I am not looking down on the current stones and set up at all, I am just always looking forward! 😛

    So in Cliff’s thread we got to discussing stones. Cliff recommended that I check out Stu’s recommendation on stones. I figured this needed it’s own thread. so first, the quote from that other thread (not on this site):

    Schtoo wrote:

    The Shapton #120 is similar to the King you have, soft and very friable. Works well enough, but it won’t last long.

    The Shapton #220 is too hard to be effective with anything hard unless you raise a slurry first. Even then, I’m not a fan. It just doesn’t work.

    Shapton GS #120 is again, too hard. It’s the right stuff, but too hard and won’t cut properly on anything really hard. Normal steel, it’ll probably be ok but I’ve not got the temperament to deal with stones that need excessive attention. It’ll be ok for knives, maybe.

    Shapton GS #320 isn’t bad, but it’s thin and won’t last long.

    Shapton GS #500 is pretty good, but it’s also thin and won’t last long.

    Suehiro Cerax #300 is very fast, good dish resistance, cheap and BIG.

    Suehiro Gokumyo-Ryu #300 is dual density. One side is a softer version of the other, hard side. Very fast, works with everything well. The hard side doesn’t dish and works very well to clean up after the soft side. Because it covers both bases, it’s not compromised but it’s seriously expensive.

    Sigma #120 is a monster, but it’s also very coarse and not ideal for blade backs. Grinding bevels, it’s good.

    Sigma Select II #240 is rather soft, very fast but it’s slightly harder than most in this grit range and much better for it.

    Sigma #400 works very well for both bevel and blade backs. Doesn’t dish very much, isn’t the fastest but can be made to work faster if needed and easily.

    Beston #500 isn’t bad but it’s a very ‘dry’ feeling stone. It’s not bad, but I’m not a fan.

    Naniwa Superstone #220 is too slow and soft. Just not good enough, but if you got stuck with one it’ll work. Not recommended.

    Naniwa Chosera #400 is very smooth, works well enough but is outclassed by half the other stones mentioned.

    King #300 is very hard, but with slurry on it (need to create it) it works well and isn’t too expensive. Good for blade backs, less so for bevels and rehabbing.

    Anything else I have is either not commercially available and good or really substandard and I won’t give them a mention.

    What’s I’ve written there is a list of what I have and have used, and is written about because it’s been mentioned or because they’re good.

    Sergey, good luck with that stone.

    Stu.

    so I am thinking that the Sigma Select II #240 looks rather interesting based upon what he said about it. All that being said, does anyone know if a waterjet cutting service could cut one of these stones up into 1″ x 5.5″ sections for us to use on the WEPS paddles? Does anyone have any connections to get this done?

    #19347
    Geocyclist
    Participant
    • Topics: 25
    • Replies: 524

    Josh,

    Please post your findings. I am interested to what you find out.

    #19349
    Mark76
    Participant
    • Topics: 179
    • Replies: 2760

    Josh, I don’t know of any waterjet cutting service, but I do know that Tom (Jendeindustries) and Ken Schwartz cut their own stones. Maybe they want to do custom cutting. Ken does offer and can cut Nubatama, Shapton and Japanese natural stones. He cut my Shaptons.

    I have wondered whether I could take a waterstone to a service that also cuts bathroom tiles and the like, but I never tried.

    Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge

    #19354
    Daniel maloon
    Participant
    • Topics: 10
    • Replies: 209

    Im in. Just ordered some stuff that will be here in a week and change. I agree about the 50/80

    #19439
    Daniel maloon
    Participant
    • Topics: 10
    • Replies: 209

    In no way scientific i started with an aluminum plate. Im using the 50g diamonds as a base and my 50’s are worn in. 100 scrubbing passes.
    50 grit diamond paddle

    80 grit Waterstone

    Havent cut the stone to fit the paddles yet so the angles are close but done freehand
    Diamond

    Waterstone

    Pretty close
    -anyone use the Nubatama Ume 24 grit before?

    #19481
    Leo Barr
    Participant
    • Topics: 26
    • Replies: 812

    I have a bench sized Nubatama Ume 24 grit it is good & quick for repairing tips not so good for thinning it is best not to flatten it unless you have something of a similar or lower grit .I am not sure that it would be useful on the WE but for brutal quick repairs it is excellent and for this there is no need for a flat stone look at the video of it in use on Chefsknivestogo web site it is a pretty large stone and could almost be used with a constant spray of water on it in use.
    Overall the Nubatama stones are excellent the 150 is also an excellent stone.

    #19484
    tcmeyer
    Participant
    • Topics: 38
    • Replies: 2095

    Hey DanMaloon: What sort of camera did you use to take those pictures?

    I’m test-driving a new microscope and am not very impressed… Thinking of returning it.

    #19642
    Daniel maloon
    Participant
    • Topics: 10
    • Replies: 209

    Hey TC, its my cellphone lg g2. Its not a microscope but it takes nice photos.

    -Arkansas oil stone tri-hones for the wicked edge lol. They work really good after being flattened. I need to get1 more thats even finer
    And it would be quad stone.mirror finnish in 4 steps<--dont know yet but looks probable maybe a film or ceramic

    #19643
    Josh
    Participant
    • Topics: 89
    • Replies: 1672

    That’s a great idea Dan!

    I have the lg g2 as well and love my phone! unfortunately I have scratches all over the lens which gives the “halo” effect recently… getting ready to have the lens replaced though.

    So on the nubatamba 24 grit… do you think it reprofiles as fast or faster than the stock 50 grit stones? it obviously leaves much more shallow scratches!

    #19645
    Daniel maloon
    Participant
    • Topics: 10
    • Replies: 209

    I dont have the nubatamba 24 but i bet i would work well. I tried a naniwa 80 first and think
    Its somewhere in between a 50 and 80 diamond. The problem is that the stone is
    really soft so it wont work. I saw kens video on the 24 and it looks good. Surprisingly the coarse
    oil stone raises a burr quickly with out deep scratches but i havent compared it yet

    #19646
    Daniel maloon
    Participant
    • Topics: 10
    • Replies: 209

    Coarse oil stones next to 50

    #19647
    Josh
    Participant
    • Topics: 89
    • Replies: 1672

    nice! so the diamonds are the marks on the left… right?

    #19648
    Daniel maloon
    Participant
    • Topics: 10
    • Replies: 209

    Yep theyre on the left just for quick reference.
    Got the first set almost done today. I didnt forget

    #19650
    Mark76
    Participant
    • Topics: 179
    • Replies: 2760

    Wow, that’s pretty impressive. They’re Arkansas oil stones? Where did you have them cut?

    Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge

    #19658
    Eamon Mc Gowan
    Participant
    • Topics: 17
    • Replies: 513

    Yeah Dan, Please do a review. I am really curious as to what you find out with the oil stones?

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