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Chisel Grind method?

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  • #46053
    marang
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    New to the forum and have a question. I have an Emerson Protech CQC-7, chisel grind, tanto blade. What is the best way to smooth the burr from the flat side after a burr is raised from the bevel side.

    #46054
    Marc H
    Moderator
    • Topics: 81
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    Welcome to the Wicked Edge Forum, marang.

    How you handle this does in practice will depend on your particular model WEPS, but the theory or method is the same.

    When I want to knock off the burr only from the opposite side of the knife from where I’m doing the sharpening and creating the bevel; e.g., in the situation when sharpening a chisel ground knife.  I set up that side’s guide rod angle to a very wide/obtuse angle setting such that when I lay a relatively fine grit stone over against the knife’s edge it’s only impacting just the very apex.  Then I use very light pressure strokes just to that one side, to knock off the burr and not to create any bevel or at the minimum just a very tiny, narrow bevel.

    It’s easy to do this with a model like the WE100, WE120 or WE130 that allow independent angle adjustments.  If your using the Gen 3 Pro you will probably need to slide the angle adjustment lever out wide to the left just to knock the burr flat.  Then bring it back to your sharpening angle position, when finished.

    You’ll need to use short narrow strokes and exercise care when working on the narrow flat part and the tip to keep these areas straight and crisp and not round them over.

     

    Marc
    (MarcH's Rack-Its)

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    #46065
    marang
    Participant
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    Whew, I’m glad I asked because I was thinking of using the lowest degree possible to knock the burr off. BTW I’m using a WE 130. Thanks for the help.

    #46066
    marang
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
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    Should I use the highest grit possible when I do this. The finest I have is 1200/1600.

    #46067
    Marc H
    Moderator
    • Topics: 81
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    I’d stick with your diamond stones and use 1000 grit Diamond to knock off the burr. If the burr proves to be tough and resilient I’d step up grit by coarser grit (1000>800 >600) until you have success removing the burr.  Don’t use more pressure and force if the burr proves tough.  Keep using very like pressure at the wide angle and try again with the coarser grit stone. Your just trying to knock off whats curled over the apex not grind or create any bevel.

    At the end of your sharpening progression you can finish with the ceramics.

    If you were to use a very low angle this positions the stone more parallel to the knife’s side and allows for a broader contact patch and wide bevel.  With a wide obtuse angle the stone just barely contacts the steel in a very narrow contact patch.

    Marc
    (MarcH's Rack-Its)

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    #46079
    marang
    Participant
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    Thank you MarcH

    1 user thanked author for this post.
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