Case for WE130, upgrade options?
- This topic has 35 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 11/28/2017 at 6:01 pm by
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I should add, I have zero experience with lapping, but have stropped by hand a bunch, so I’m familiar with that process.
I’m not sure where I should be adding lapping to improve my stropping, maybe even lapp all the way down to .5 with a final few passes with a strop, I have no idea. So open to input there.
My goal is to have a mirror polish, be able to do frequent touch ups tot he knife in my pocket with an easy, repeatable setup, and at minimum maintain a shaving sharp edge, but would like to be able to pass the hanging hair test, with the high polish level I’m after.
Edit: I just called back, Kyle is probably getting bored of my calls by now, to change to the upgrade 3, as that will give me a complete second system, basically. I’ll figure out what to do with it later lol!
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Justin, I have all the upgrades but still use the old “L” brackets. I don’t believe there’s a reason to replace them as long as the threaded hole for the ball joint are clean and smooth, and the threads for the locking thumb screws are also good. The male threads on the ball joint screw do become flattened from clamping pressure when locking them with the thumb screw. The ball joints I’ve had to replace. Now I use a nylon thumb screw to lock them, in place of the original metal ones. Some users use a small piece of plastic material inserted in the threaded holes with the old metal thumb screws.
I think you would do well to order the 1500 diamond / glass platen combo and use this in place of, or in addition to, the 1200/1600 ceramics. That also gives you one more glass blank for an additional lapping film. I like to follow my diamond progression up to 1500. I think that 1500 is a very good finishing stone. The strops are a good call. I love the diamond emulsion 4/2 pair.
All the ceramics, (1200/1600, 1.4/0.6) take a lot of use to break them in before you’ll realize their full potential.
Marc
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Thanks Marc,
I am sure I will forget or be missing something from this order, so I can always do a small follow up order afterward.
Do you think the diamond 1500 with say a 9 or 6 micron film would replace my ceramics? I’m kinda murky on the 1500 with the 1200/1600 ceramic. Wouldn’t it be a step backwards from the 1500?
I don’t think I have broken in the ceramics yet, so not too keen on replacing them!
Would the 1500 then a 6 micron lapping film replace my ceramics all together? I’d have an extra surface, but then I would probalby have a finer lapping film, like a 1.5?
So would you suggest diamond to 1500, then 6/3/1.5 micron lapping film, then a 4/2 & 1/.5 micron strop? Goal again being hanging hair test and mirror finish.
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The 1500 paired with the 6µ is a good way to go. I do think the films can replace the ceramics if your goal is a visually mirrored polish. I have done well with the films down to 1.0µ. Smaller than that my results are sometimes less predictable.
So would you suggest diamond to 1500, then 6/3/1.5 micron lapping film, then a 4/2 & 1/.5 micron strop? Goal again being hanging hair test and mirror finish.
Yes I like that progression. Realize when your changing abrasive mediums the grits don’t always correlate or follow linearly down the grit range. It’s usually a good idea when switching mediums to step back up a grit and allow the overlap or repetition if you will of the grit size.
I have found that an edge will sometimes pass the Hanging Hair Test (HHT) prior to stropping and not pass HHT after stropping. But it will cut more smoothly and feel sharper after stropped.
Marc
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Thanks Marc,
I will go forward with what I have now. Diamond to 1000, then 1200/1600 and 1.4/.6 micron ceramic. Then 6/3 diamond lapping film, and finally 4/2 emulsion & 1/.5 micron diamond paste on leather. I do feel I should be able to get a better result than I have been getting, and dividing up the cost would help, as currently I am off work for 6 weeks with a broken foot so I am not getting paid.
On the bright side, it has given me lots of time to play with knives and the WE!
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I should add, I have zero experience with lapping, but have stropped by hand a bunch, so I’m familiar with that process. I’m not sure where I should be adding lapping to improve my stropping, maybe even lapp all the way down to .5 with a final few passes with a strop, I have no idea. So open to input there. My goal is to have a mirror polish, be able to do frequent touch ups tot he knife in my pocket with an easy, repeatable setup, and at minimum maintain a shaving sharp edge, but would like to be able to pass the hanging hair test, with the high polish level I’m after. Edit: I just called back, Kyle is probably getting bored of my calls by now, to change to the upgrade 3, as that will give me a complete second system, basically. I’ll figure out what to do with it later lol!
This post got overlooked. The order is generally: Diamond stones, (ceramics or no ceramics, your choice), diamond lapping films, strops. As I said early a stropped knife will loose the wire edge that I believe is helpful or needed to pass HHT. I do feel the stropped edge is sharper and smoother. I think a knife sharpened to demonstrate a HHT may not be durable enough for the pocket.
Marc
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A stropped knife will loose the wire edge, but stropping will also make the edge sharper apart from that (due to burnishing). And if you’re going for a mirror polish, the answer is quicky made.
Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge
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I have done away with all my ceramics as I find them not necessary when going to the films, even the 9 micron films don’t show much scratch pattern improvements over the 1500 diamonds. Although it is not a perfect science/progression as different steel/heat treats react a bit differently.
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Justin go with what you have coming. Figure it out with the new vice and jaws. Get your technique down. Figure your repeatability out. See the results of what your mediums produce. Then…after learn how to use what you have, and also, what your getting soon, and understand what all you have, then buy some more goodies! Especially if time is limited in your busy schedule. Just MO.
BTW I too use Shapton Glass Stones then go to strops.
Marc
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Thanks Marc,
I’m gonna do that. My partner in knife collecting also uses Shapton glass on his Edge Pro, I know a couple others as well who freehand with them, and all get good results. I also get good results as is, but am looking for better than good!
I’m thinking that is Clay is using Shapton stones, rather than diamond, and going right into fancy CBNs etc
Justin – I don’t use the Shaptons at all. I have a set, but I haven’t pulled them out in a couple of years. I do straight diamonds through 1500, then usually lapping films and finish with strops, most commonly the 4/2 set though I’ll go finer if I’m looking for a more perfect finish. I still use ceramic stones on knives where I want a good finish and a very sharp edge but am not looking for a mirror. I usually follow the ceramics with a little stropping.
-Clay
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Justin, I do use Shapton Glass Stones, often. I find I can get pretty much the same polish and fine, even predictable scratch pattern from the SGS as I can with Diamond Lapping Films, (DLF). The advantage to using the SGS is they can be used edge-leading, edge-trailing and with a scrubbing motion with out damage to the stones. Whereas with DLF you must exercise real care to use them any other way then edge-trailing to avoid cutting and gouging them.
Both these mediums are consumable with the DLF wearing out or cutting much quicker than the stones will wear. The SGS are a true costly investment and the Shapton Diamond Glass Lapping Plate is worthwhile and needed, to maintain the flatness, and a costly investment too. But once you go for the expense you’ll have the use for many, many, years to come.
I have found, IMO, that some of the newer Super Stainless Steels” seem to sharpen well and easier with the SGS then with metal Diamond Stones or DLF. I can’t say for sure whether it’s the hardness or toughness of the SGS or that they’re use with a spritz of water. Maybe the water cools the metal or lubricates it. They do seem to sharpen the new steels with less effort, less chipping and quicker than diamonds stones.
Marc
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