Can you guys show

[phillyjudge]

A picture of how/ where you tape off the knife or the jaws in the Gen 3 vise?

if taping is so critical, can the jaws be taped and the tape just left on from blade to blade?

I plan on installing my G3 tomorrow and want to start off on the right track!!

Also, can I skip the angle cube on the blade/ splitting the difference technique with this new vise?

 

 

[tcmeyer]

Just about any tape similar to masking tape is workable.  Below is a photo I took of a clunky knife mounted in my old Gen I vise, where i was using a piece of a paper shop towel to protect the blade from scratches.  This is where you’d use the tape.  For serious knives (value > $50) I will mask off everything, even the bolsters, leaving only the very edge exposed.  This is intended to protect the finished parts of the knife from accidental scratches, which can happen when you’re waving diamond stones around.

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[Joe_Manco]

I taped the vice jaws and not the blade when I did this M4 para2 blade earlier tonight. Worked fine but doesn’t last more then one blade. I prefer to remove the blade from the body of the knife when possible and if I’m not in a rush.

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[wickededge]

phillyjudge wrote:

A picture of how/ where you tape off the knife or the jaws in the Gen 3 vise? if taping is so critical, can the jaws be taped and the tape just left on from blade to blade? I plan on installing my G3 tomorrow and want to start off on the right track!! Also, can I skip the angle cube on the blade/ splitting the difference technique with this new vise?

I put a thin strip of Moleskin on the insides of each jaw and it usually lasts for a good number of knives.

-Clay

[tcmeyer]

Whilst we’re one the subject of the Gen 3 vise, I have a question/suggestion which has to do with the key holes.

Why are the upper and lower holes on the right jaw slotted together?  I find that using the upper key position isn’t as stable as the lower key position. When holding a blade in position on the upper key, the key tilts down on the right side, making the operation a bit awkward..  The problem is exacerbated by the fact that the Gen 3 jaws are held wide open until you turn the crank.  Clamping a blade while the key is tilted often results in not being able to remove the key – it’s locked in position by the spine of the blade.  Even when I can remove the key, the fit is really tight and I worry about scratching the spine.  This simply isn’t a problem with the lower key position.

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dulledge, 378pete, phillyjudge

[wickededge]

tcmeyer wrote:

Whilst we’re one the subject of the Gen 3 vise, I have a question/suggestion which has to do with the key holes. Why are the upper and lower holes on the right jaw slotted together? I find that using the upper key position isn’t as stable as the lower key position. When holding a blade in position on the upper key, the key tilts down on the right side, making the operation a bit awkward.. The problem is exacerbated by the fact that the Gen 3 jaws are held wide open until you turn the crank. Clamping a blade while the key is tilted often results in not being able to remove the key – it’s locked in position by the spine of the blade. Even when I can remove the key, the fit is really tight and I worry about scratching the spine. This simply isn’t a problem with the lower key position.

This is a great question. We’ve been testing the design since you last mentioned it and are planning on making the change to corresponding holes on the opposite side. The slot was a design feature we carried over without revisiting from our very first, Gen 1 models. It is no longer necessary as the design of the Free Jaw in our WE100 line changed in Gen 2.

-Clay

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dulledge

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