Burr removal

[Zach Thompson]

I’m having problems removing my burr. I go through all the stones, 1200 / 1600 ceramics, 5 & 3.5 micron strops. I can’t detect a burr, but at soon as I cut some paper…boom, burr is back. I seem to be straightening and refining the burr and not removing it. I usually wind up free hand stropping at a steep angle to remove it, but then I have just rounded the edge and lost a little sharpness (still sharp, but not wicked sharp.)

How can I remove the burr? I think I’m using more than enough strokes. Could it be a pressure issue? Alternating strokes vs “scrubbing” each side (I generally alternate)?

My latest technique is to fold a piece of paper several times and run it down the edge while still in the vise. Getting so so results.

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[Robert Gilvary]

Grade/quality of steel?

[Haakon Aase Heie]

Perhaps try with a cork from a wine bottle or something. That is the method that my grandfather used. I have also seen that Murray Carter use that method when he sharpen knives and even razors 🙂

[Leo Barr]

Cutting corks is a popular method of burr removal the other way is to cut into the end grain of a piece of pine.

[Ted S]

I use a pencil eraser

[Chris]

After each grit, I use a soft dowel rod. Could use any soft piece of wood/cork that you have on hand.

[Zach Thompson]

Doesn’t seem to matter what steel. VG-10, D2, S30V, 154CM, AUS8, 440C. Spyderco, Benchmade, SOG, Cold Steel brands. They all are doing the same thing.

I’ve got a pile of old wine corks. I’ll give that a try.

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[Blunt Cut]

You can adapt my freehand burr/wire-edge removal method for WE. Use a solid smooth grain round stick – such as olive wood – to file perpendicular to the edge. Yes, laterally to fold burr and or wire-edge 90* to the apex. Then use WE pull down stroke to cut off the folded-over burr/wire.

Here is a video I posted 8 months ago. This is my go-to deterministic burr/wire removal. Heheh maybe worth a try or :huh:

[cbwx34]

I’m more with Bluntcut on this…. I’ve never found pulling a knife thru wood/cork/etc. very effective. For me, either an edge leading stroke at a higher angle, (usually with a ceramic stone), or some stropping at a higher angle (edge trailing of course) is more effective. His method pushes the burr to one side, where you can then remove it.

But there’s more than one way,,,, try a few and see what works best for you.

[Lukas Pop]

What angle do you use? Sometimes I had problem with removing the burr in case of too steep angles. I solve it by adding the microbevel.

[Joey]

I’ve always wondered about how to fully remove a burr and bluntcuts method seems to makes sense.

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[Leo James Mitchell]

I’m with you Lukas. Doing it this way I never have a burr problem anymore. Good advice!

Cheers
Leo

[Ken]

So no one has a method using the WE? Can you just polish the bur off or is that too time consuming? I always have bur issues.

[Marc H]

Welcome to the W.E. forum Ken.

To remove the burr I use alternating side edge leading strokes as my last sharpening strokes with each and every grit stones I use in my sharpening progressions.  That is a left hand side stroke – a right hand side stroke – a left hand side stroke – then a right hand side strokes with the sharpening stones directed down and onto, or down and against the knife’s edge.  These edge leading sharpening strokes remove any burrs that were created while using each and every grit stone while also exposing and making the edge’s sharpness more pronounced.

I do this while the knife is still clamped in the W.E. vise as a regular part of my sharpening routines.  When this process is done well there will be no remnants of a burr after your last finest grit stone has been used.

You must exercise care whenever using edge leading strokes which may bring your exposed fingertips down and against the sharpened knife edge if you’re not careful.

Marc
(MarcH's Rack-Its)

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