Buck 471 2001- blade chipping
- This topic has 12 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 04/08/2017 at 9:11 am by
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Could be anything. Has it always been your knife?
One thing you can do is grind the edge 90° to the stone until the chip is gone. (But you can’t just grind that area or you’ll end up with a recurve or dip). Once the chip is gone, you can sharpen in a new edge.
Alternatively, set the W.E. at the highest angle you can and sharpen the chip out that way… then sharpen in a new edge at whatever angle you want.
If it returns after either method… my guess is there is something wrong with the steel.
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I’d have to guess that there’s a bad spot in the blade steel – too hard or bad crystallization. What grit were you starting at, after the flat-filing?
Yesterday I sharpened a low-end SOG folder for my nephew. The fit & finish were poor enough that I thought it might be a fake copy, kind of a small Buck 110. There were a couple of severe chips and dents at the belly, so I filed off a good bit to rid the blade of the damage. After stoning for about 15 minutes with my 100/200 stones, I took mirroredge’s advise and took to my Worksharp belt sander. Only took a few minutes and the finish work on the WEPS went zip-zip-zip, finishing at 1000. I was thinking about giving my nephew the WorkSharp, but not anymore. There’s some evidence of the belt work, but if you’re not fussy over the bevel appearance, it worked great.
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I think the worksharp has it’s place for some tools, but I don’t like it for knives
There’s some evidence of the belt work
for the reasons indicated. It’s too aggressive and I don’t trust the angles at all. However, for quick damage removal with intent, it works just fine. All of these tools have a place in the arsenal. Grind it on the work-sharp (With Blade Grinder Attachment) and refine it on the WE. I have chosen the AMK-75 to speed repair and to provide precise cutting angles. I then take it to the WE after all the evidence of the lower grits is removed. The different grit abrasives for the 1×30 are tremendous these days and you can swap the belts quickly on the AMK. They have structured abrasives, diamonds, felt and leather. This allows one to virtually eliminate any repair “Evidence” before putting on the WE. For me it’s become about the time I spend on each blade. I like the flexibility that these two systems offer. I can burn through my work quickly with outstanding results or I can slow down, take my time with the WE without the need for power. I needed to add; Sharpening is a different “animal” than blade repair (Grinding bolsters, Tip Damage, major edge defects, re-profile work, etc.). I use both of these systems for different procedures. Blade repair AMK, fine edges and shiny edges WE. The combo is just amazing.
Eddie Kinlen
M1rror Edge Sharpening Service, LLC
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Advanced Manufacturing Koncepts (Click Here).
Eddie Kinlen
M1rror Edge Sharpening Service, LLC
+1(682)777-16221 user thanked author for this post.
Do you worry about heating up the cutting edge with the belt?
Nope, Not at all. That is the most common response I see. Almost every knife edge on the market was “birthed” on a belt grinder. The adjustable speed offered and modern structured abrasives available reduce the risk of heating up the blade enough to destroy the temper. Of course, if one wants to destroy a blade, they could do it pretty quickly on any of these machines. The blade never gets hot enough that I can’t touch it.
Eddie Kinlen
M1rror Edge Sharpening Service, LLC
+1(682)777-16221 user thanked author for this post.
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