bevel problems- uneven bevels?

[gil]

Hey so i sharpened my three knives with this process 16.5, 19, and 21 degrees and all three have the same uneven bevel. the right side is much skinnier than the left. my sharpening process is as follows:

1) zeroed the angle cube to the base of the weps. measured the arms with the angle cube just like in the videos, then i even measure the angle that the knife sits in the vise for each side and and repeat all these measurements after every set of stones. they stay constant. I also marker the bevel before changing stones

2) sharpie bevel, then create a burr throughout the right side with the 100grit until it is significant, double check with jewelers loupe then do the same on the left side, then do acouple light strokes on the right until the burr is gone

3) sharpie bevel and sharpen with the rest of the stones using minimum pressure and changing from leading to trailing edge throughout the rest of the stones down to 1000grit. Check with jewelers loupe to see when the scratch marks are removed. measure with the angle cube as stated above after every change of stones.-never had any change of angle

as said before im not sure why but my right bevel is about 3/5th the size as the left. This can be see right from the 100grit stones. any ideas why? I have read acouple post on here but they have not cleared up anything for me

[wickededge]

Good question! It could be that the knife started with uneven bevels and you need to work longer on the side with the smaller bevel. It could also be that the edge of the knife is not ground down the center of the blade stock. Those would be the first two things I’d look at if you’ve verified with the angle gauge that the knife is vertical in the clamp and that the angles match.

-Clay

[Mark76]

On “the other” forum Leo, Josh and myself posted replies. They are not visible here, so I thought I’d transfer them.

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Leomitch

3/5 larger is 60% bigger…that would be quite an error if you are being as careful as you have described. I would have to suspect a bent arm or a bent vise tip or the degree bar is one of the badly calibrated ones that sneak through quality control from time to time or some other part that is off.
Try one more time with another knife. If it recurs give phone call to the WE or PM Clay and see what he thinks. He may get to it here but a PM is surer. Whatever the problem it will be looked after…it always is. 🙂

But before I finish, once again describe how you do the whole burr thing please…I got confused with you description in the post:
“2) sharpie bevel, then create a burr throughout the right side with the 100grit until it is significant, double check with jewelers loupe then do the same on the left side, then do a couple light strokes on the right until the burr is gone”
Then do a couple of strokes on the right side you say, but what about the left side, you don’t say.You have to do both sides of the burr. Maybe you just forgot or I am missing something.

Leo

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Razoredgeknives

It could be as simple as you grinding too much on one side and not enough on the other… Look up ken Schwartz’s video on asymmetrical bevels and he explains it well 🙂

Josh

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Mark76

Hey Captain, welcome to the forum!

I think Leo and Josh give sound advice. In fact, I was just gonna post what Josh has written 😆 .

You may want to try to establish a simple single-bevel adge. Not that there’s a fundamental difference with a multie-bevel edge, but it might make diagnosing a little easier.

Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge

[wickededge]

“2) sharpie bevel, then create a burr throughout the right side with the 100grit until it is significant, double check with jewelers loupe then do the same on the left side, then do a couple light strokes on the right until the burr is gone”

This can cause uneven bevels- If you only work on one side until you get a burr, you will have spent the majority of your time on that side. It’s often very easy and quick to get a burr on the opposite side, resulting in a smaller bevel. I like to start by coloring the bevels in with a Sharpie, then work using alternating strokes until almost all the marker is gone from both sides. Then I’ll start to work on one side only until I am able to raise the burr.

-Clay

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