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Best knife lube for pivot and washers?

Recent Forums Main Forum Off Topic Best knife lube for pivot and washers?

This topic contains 25 replies, has 15 voices, and was last updated by  Expidia 11/07/2019 at 5:10 am.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 26 total)
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  • #9369

    Daniel Saucier
    Participant
    • Topics: 6
    • Replies: 30

    Any suggestions for lubrication for pivot points and washers on folders? Most of my folders have phosphorus bronze washers. Dry lube vs others?

    Thanks for any info

    Sauce

    #9371

    Tom Whittington
    Participant
    • Topics: 4
    • Replies: 159

    I can’t comment on anything knife-specific, but in my shop the two grease type products that get the most use are molybdenum disulfide type grease or RIG universal. The moly (make sure to get high moly content, similar to automotive wheel bearing grease if I’m not mistaken) will embed in low spots and further smooth out friction points. RIG is a light grease that works well on just about everything in my experience.

    I have some moly on my CRKT pivot and washer and it has helped smooth it up considerably. I may also try Frog Lube at some point on a knife to see how it compares. At any rate, that should give you some options!

    #9372

    Geocyclist
    Participant
    • Topics: 25
    • Replies: 524

    I use Breakfree CLP (Clean Lube Protect). It works well for me. I have seen some home made tests and this did the best for preventing rust on raw steel plates compared to other lubes. I also use it to protect the blade. Especially my M4 steel.

    #9373

    Daniel Saucier
    Participant
    • Topics: 6
    • Replies: 30

    Geo, I like the Breakfree CLP idea. I use Ballistol(lube/cleaner similar to CLP) on firearms, works well. Last night I used Hoppes gun oil on 2 folders I took apart and cleaned. Seems ok so far, we’ll see in a few weeks how it holds up to pocket lint and so forth. That was the first time I disassembled, cleaned, reassembled any folders. Guess I should have done more research before hand, as I didn’t pay attention to washer orientation relative to which side faces the blade to keep them that way. They went back together and operate fine. Watched some videos after where there seems to be agreement that you need to pay attention to the washer orientation. Any thoughts on that? Other than that, the maintenance seems pretty simple.

    Sauce

    #9379

    Joel Fiorentini
    Participant
    • Topics: 3
    • Replies: 26

    I recently purchased some 10w nano-oil and am very satisfied. You can read about it here:http://www.spyderco.com/forums/showthread.php?55431-Nano-Oil-for-Sal

    #9382

    Mark76
    Keymaster
    • Topics: 179
    • Replies: 2760

    Yup. I use nano-oil too. Despite its name it’s not an oil. In their marketing they look a bit like Tell-Sell (I don’t know what that is in the US, but I mean the TV channels that 24/7 broadcast commercials with the most fantastic promises). But I’ve found it actually works.

    I’d never use something fatty on my pivots/washers, whether it be natural oil or synthetic stuff like Ballistol. (I do use Ballistol though for rust-prevention: synthetic fat doesn’t get rancid.) It gets dirty, because it attracts dust.

    The alternative is to use something that repels moisture, like WD-40. That works, too, but I’ve found that nano-oil lubricates better.

    Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge

    #9395

    Phil Pasteur
    Participant
    • Topics: 10
    • Replies: 943

    Yup. I use nano-oil too. Despite its name it’s not an oil.
    The alternative is to use something that repels moisture, like WD-40. That works, too, but I’ve found that nano-oil lubricates better.

    Just curious Mark… if not an oil, what is it? It looks like oil, acts like oil…and smells like oil…
    You know the one about the Duck right…If it walks like a duck and quacks like a duck… well it probably is a Duck..
    🙂

    I bought six containers ( 3 ml each maybe) in three different grades (5. 10. 15w IIRC.. the bottles are not labled 🙁 a few years back. At the time it was for lubicrating threads on flashlights. I have tried it on lots of things since, including pivots on folders. While it works well, I don’t find that it works that much better…nor lasts that muchlonger than other lubes. At least not enough so to justify the price. If it weren’t as expensive as it is, I would use it more.

    http://www.diamondlube.com/NanoLube.html

    Now, back then, I remember that there was a raging battle between a couple of guys about who owned the trademark.. The oil I got is labled “Quicken ATM” “Nanotech lubrication with hyperdiamond”. I am not sure if this is the same thing people talking about or buying now. There may be differences.

    I have also tried toughglide lube, seems to be a good anti corrosion agent, but maybe not as slick as some… does seem to last.

    I have some Militec 1. You apply it and heat the material, to maybe 200 F for a few hours. It is supposed to plate the substrate with a dry lube. It is meant for treating the slides and barrels of guns. I have done that too. They say to coat multiple times. I have done some pivots with up to 4 coats. It seems to work quite well, very slick, and so far (years) has not lost its slickness. It also does not attract dirt.
    Great stuff, time consuming to use and real expensive. If none of that bothers you, get some!

    The thing I use most is Superlube. I have it in a heavy oil and a grease. It is all synthetic, I believe silicon oil, with teflon. It may not have the ultimate slickness of some fo the others (militec 1), but is is real cheap, so you can apply it often if need be. It also does not seem to me to attract dirt near as much as the other liquids. I use it on the pivots of all my new folders when breaking them in.

    So that is my take. I have used lots of lubes over the years…these are the best of the bunch for knife pivots.

    BTW

    WD-40 is not much of a lubricant. What lube it has is mineral oil, not exactly know as a super lubricant:).
    It is mainly used to displace water and give some corrosion resistence. It does penetrate pretty well. I use it to coat my machetes and axes after cleaning. It does help keep the rust away on steel.

    Interesting links about WD 40

    http://www.wired.com/science/discoveries/magazine/17-05/st_whatsinside

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WD-40

    #9402

    cbwx34
    Keymaster
    • Topics: 57
    • Replies: 1505

    What about…. nothing? Aren’t some of these washer types designed to be used dry?

    One I don’t recommend is Tuf Glide… I was surprised after all the reviews I’ve read, how poorly it worked. My knives would actually squeak a short time after applying.

    Most knives, I don’t use anything… seem to work fine. If I feel one needs it, I have a concoction a friend made a few years ago…. don’t know what’s in it, but it works great. I’ve also used the dry lube I use on my bicycle… seems to work well too.

    If you take a knife apart… polishing the washers and corresponding areas on the knife, will show a noticeable improvement too.

    #9404

    Phil Pasteur
    Participant
    • Topics: 10
    • Replies: 943

    What about…. nothing? Aren’t some of these washer types designed to be used dry?

    quote]

    Well…that is just no fun at all…:)

    But yes, often I have seen teflon washers and those, as well as the phosphorous-bronze washers are used because the materials have a low coefficient of friction. If one is happy with the way their knife opens and closes, absolutely, “nothing” is the correct answer. Still, I think the right lube can make a difference when you are not happy with the action.

    I have met people that obsess about just the correct amount of tension involved in opening their knives. They will constantly be adjusting the torque on the pivot screws. If a person is so afflicted, lubrication is just another tool to be used in obtaining the goal. That would be, no side play with a smooth
    and light action.
    In other cases, I have been around people that will continually flick their knives open and closed. Long term, the right lube will reduce the wear produced by this compulsive behavior. BTW, I am guilty of both of these activities. At least, I typically only do the latter with a new knife…until the novelty wears off and it is “broken in”. The former I typically do once per knife and just leave it until soemthing drastically changes.

    In any case, I like playing with different lubes. It is just part of the hobby and my OCD streak.
    In my case, Nothing is not an option.

    😆

    Phil

    #9457

    Daniel Saucier
    Participant
    • Topics: 6
    • Replies: 30

    I tried using no lube when I first reassembled my Delica 4. Even after adjusting the tension on the pivot screw, it was apparent lubrication was needed. Action was much smoother. Cleaned and lubed a Kershaw next, action seems it can only be improved with a little lube for me so far!

    Sauce

    #9484

    Geocyclist
    Participant
    • Topics: 25
    • Replies: 524

    Tom, Others,

    Anyone that uses grease, how do you apply it? How can you get it on the pivot without disassembly?

    #9490

    Fred Hermann
    Participant
    • Topics: 30
    • Replies: 188

    I’ve tried a number of lubes, but I seem to always go back to dry teflon/graphite lubes. I fiddle with my knives enough I don’t have to worry about rust, except on a very small number.
    Anyone have a reason to avoid the dry lubes?

    #9492

    Phil Pasteur
    Participant
    • Topics: 10
    • Replies: 943

    Other than the fact that they don’t really penetrate much, I can’t see a reason to avoid them,. Especially if you have the knife disassembled. If you don’t, I can’t see how the dry lubes would ever get to the places that need them.

    Phil

    #9516

    Fred Hermann
    Participant
    • Topics: 30
    • Replies: 188

    I dunno.
    The few knives I’ve bothered to fully disassemble that I use the dry lube on, always have it in every crevice.
    My point, it’s cheap, and worth a try. Not food safe though. Assuming thats an issue…..

    #9518

    Geocyclist
    Participant
    • Topics: 25
    • Replies: 524

    Just my 2 cents: Food safe is not a concern for the pivot. (I am OCD paranoid about getting anything other than lint in the pivot). When I do care about food safety I have Mineral Oil USP to wipe on the blade. I don’t use it on the pivot. This is supposed to be food safe and won’t spoil. (like canola, olive, etc.). Even then I only use on M4 and 1095 for rust prevention.

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