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Any sharpening solution for Spyderco Paramilitary style choil/plunge-grind?

Recent Forums Main Forum Knife Specific Discussion Any sharpening solution for Spyderco Paramilitary style choil/plunge-grind?

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  • #50088
    Tony Cho
    Participant
    • Topics: 3
    • Replies: 5

    The plastic block that holds stones in place are interfering with choil / plunge-grind (don’t know what to call it) of Spyderco Paramilitary 2, making it impossible to grind the edge from heel to tip.

    There are numerous knives that are produced by Spyderco that has this, and there are some other companies that have something similar.

    I don’t see any any solution other than to simply grind away the plastic block that holds the stones so that it no longer interferes with choil / plunge-grind.

    Would like to hear if there are any known solutions to this problem.

    #50089
    Marc H
    Moderator
    • Topics: 81
    • Replies: 2755

    Tony, altering your paddles as you suggest is one method.  I don’t like that it limits the effectiveness of a safety feature.

    The other method is to add a sharpening notch or sharpening choil to those knives that require it.  Then your stones will work just as they were designed.

    Here are several YouTube Videos on the subject you may want to view:  (there are many more)

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HeLiONHXmjQ

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vLr_GuafnEw

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PqRot7EtA6s

     

     

    Marc
    (MarcH's Rack-Its)

    5 users thanked author for this post.
    #50091
    Tony Cho
    Participant
    • Topics: 3
    • Replies: 5

    IC, thanks for the suggestions. Will check them out.

    #50111
    Jeff
    Participant
    • Topics: 3
    • Replies: 40

    Tony, I have about 10 Spyderco folders I maintain on the Wicked edge.  Some of them are the Paramilitary model but really all models I own have blades with that same pronounced ricasso at the rear of the sharpened edge.  I removed the plastic edge from the opposite side of each stone paddle to allow the stone to effectively get closer to that junction.  Cutting off only one side per grit but on the opposite sides so when you rotate on the guide rods the removed side is always towards the rear.  It can be done quite easily with a box cutter blade using the edge of the diamond stone as a guide.

    As Mark mentioned, I do agree that there is a slight increased risk of contact between your fingers and the blade but you have to take care regardless.  Honestly I’ve had knives bite me a few times that I always wear cut resistant gloves even before I removed the edge of the plastic paddle.

    Attached a few pics that show what I did.  I got the idea off of this forum from others who did it before me.

    Attachments:
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    #50116
    Tony Cho
    Participant
    • Topics: 3
    • Replies: 5

    Thank you Jeff for the example given.

    #50118
    tcmeyer
    Participant
    • Topics: 38
    • Replies: 2098

    I think one of the forum guys posted here another method of solving the problem.  He suggested grinding the ricasso down so that the stones clear it.  The idea is that such a modified ricasso would be almost unrecognizable.  Not having a blade like that, I’m not sure that ricasso thickness is also a problem.  On my Delica, the ricasso is both slender and low enough to clear the plastic edges of the stones.

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #50148
    Travis Johnston
    Participant
    • Topics: 8
    • Replies: 21

    Add a choil to your Spydie

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