Sharpen a very curved blade

I’d attempt it by clamping it centered in the jaws to balance the amount of the arc of the blade forward and behind and below the jaw center and jaw line, in a manner that a line imagined between the knife edge right at where the heel meets the handle and the tip of the knife blade is parallel to the jaw line.

Sounds like your describing a knife like this.https://www.amazon.com/Victorinox-Cutlery-8-Inch-Curved-Breaking/dp/B0019WXEO2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1533914485&sr=8-5&keywords=curved+filet+knife

If the knife ends, (i.e., heel and tip) hang too low below the jaw line when clamped so that the stones can’t meet the knife edge to work efficiently, you may need to elevate the knife higher above the jaw line still clamping it similarly but with the LAA.  Also if the radius of the arc is not quite uniform like this knife style I linked in blue above, you may need to adjust the knife clamping position by tilting the handle up or down, or possibly shifting it fore or aft in the jaws, (i.e., moving the imagined line between tip and heel off of parallel to jaw line), in order to position the knife it a “sweet spot”.  You can verify this position and stone efficiency with a sharpie on the bevel.

Michael which WEPS model do you use?  Is the top side forward of the spine and behind the tip beveled and sharpened, also?  If it is I’d do that part first.  Exercise care at the tip to keep from rounding it.  When finished with the top bevel, I’d tape it for protection because you’ll be clamping close to that blade portion when you flip it and clamp it to sharpen the main bevel, curve up.   It looks pretty dang symmetrical.  Shouldn’t be too tough to clamp it centered. I’d attempt it how I suggested above.  It can be sharpened with patient, care and due diligence.  It says 440 stainless which is pretty hard, (HRc 60), and should sharpen fairly well and not too difficultly.

1 user thanked author for this post.

David