1500 Grit Diamond Stones
- This topic has 8 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 07/28/2018 at 4:52 pm by
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Jon J, the 1200/1600 Ceramics long predated the relatively new 1500 grit Diamond stone now offered by Wicked Edge in the grit line-up. Many of us used the 1200/1600 ceramics, (now called the “Superfine Ceramics”), following the 1000 grit diamond stone. The ceramic stones were and still are sort of difficult to get a read on. They need a lot of use and have a long “break in” period till you’ll see they’re true benefits. After the 1200/1600 the 1.4µ/0.6µ, (now called the “Microfine Ceramics”), were released and these ceramics shared similar attributes as the 1200/1600. These ceramics were the finest grit polishing stones offered at that time. Now there are other routes and a larger variety of abrasive mediums available to use with the WEPS.
Today we have many mediums available to mix and use together in our progression to achieve the finest polished knife edges:
- Diamond Stones
- Ceramic Stones
- Abrasive Imbedded Lapping Films, (diamond, aluminum oxide, Silicon carbide and Silicon dioxide)
- Whetstones (Naniwa Chosera and Shaptons)
- Arkansas Natural Stones
- Stropping Mediums, (Cow leather, Kangaroo Leather, Balsa wood, Cardboard, Nano Cloth and Newspaper)
- and possibly others I may have overlooked
Choosing which grit, and which medium to use in your progression is the “art” part of knife sharpening. Logic suggests we follow a progression from larger abrasive particle size, (i.e., coarser grit) to smaller abrasive particle size, (i.e., finer grit) as we remove and smooth steel to sharpen our knives. This is basically true but not all mediums fit this rule so clean cut. Just because the grit number or particle size align doesn’t necessary mean you need to use it in your sharpening progression. I used to think, and I believe many of us thought, the more different grits in the progression and the more stones I could string together in a descending grit progression the sharper my knife would become. Now I know, through time and experience, how to pick and choose which grit and which mediums I choose to align together to sharpen a particular knife or a particular steel.
Today with the use of lighted magnifying devices, (e.g., USB Microscopes) we can observe the size, depth and width of the scratch patterns laid down by the medium grits and use this visual results to help us to choose how we string together our grits and mediums.
I hope the long winded explanation helps you put it in perspective.
I just last week bought and received the axle boots from Amazon.
Marc
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Marc gave you the philosophical answer and I agree with everything he said. Ultimately, it will be up to you to decide what progression gives you the results you seek.
I will attempt to give you a practical answer. The 1500 grit diamond works very well after the 1000 grit diamond. It can essentially replace the 1200 / 1600 grit ceramics in your progression. The advantage here is that diamond abrades more rapidly than ceramic, so it takes a lot less time to get you to a similar level of refinement as you would get with the 1200 / 1600 after the 1000. If you want to use the 1500 in conjunction with the 1200 / 1600 ceramics, then I would suggest using the diamonds up to 1500 and then using the 1200 / 1600 afterward. It seems counter-intuitive, but it is often helpful to drop back to a lower grit when changing from one type of abrasive media to another (diamond to ceramic in this case).
If you want to add more options, get some 5 micron aluminum oxide or 6 micron diamond lapping film to put on the glass side of the 1500 stone. It works very well directly after the 1500 and produces an astonishing polish (although not scratch free) with even just a few passes.
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Unbeknownst to me MarcH had written his response here when I was querying him along similar lines off forum. It’s a great reply. Organic touched on the “counterintuitive” aspect of going back up in grit size when you change medium and abrasive.
Theres a great article in the Wicked Edge Knowledge Base about grit progression and perhaps you’ve read it but I found it incredibly helpful. For starters Clay, and I assume it was Clay, indicates a basic progression for working blades then goes on to give a progression for the Wicked Edge Mirror. Sharpening Grit Progression for All Wicked Edge Abrasives
Additionally If you want a visual idea of the “final” product of each of the Wicked Edge abrasives (and you haven’t seen it already ) Check out Grit Comparison Chart
Leaving the Wicked Edge site I found this article, Wicked Edge (WEPS) Stock Diamond & Ceramic Microscopic Progression Please note that article is more than 6 years old and may not show all the current abrasives offered by Wicked Edge. However for those abrasives he does use the author offers some helpful insights as to the thought process as he moves through his WE abrasive library. Photos are very clear and helpful. That kind of Master’s level sharpening is far beyond me. Frankly at this point I’ll be happy to crack open the box with my new WE130, find a few sweet spots, begin to break in my stones , then start sharpening kitchen knives & work folders for family and friends.
Wow talk about coincidence my Email gong just went off with an email from WE informing me my order has shipped. Next week it is! I’m excited to stop stuffing my head with the theoretical, start using what I’ve learned and begin to get my hands and handles dirty.
George
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Did you buy a box of Band-aids, George? The flexible kind work well. I think you’ve got everything else lined up. LOL
Marc
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Ha Ha Ha! Funny man Marc…but…I DID!! Lol! Actually on your and other’s recommendation I got gloves and the safety shields PLUS I’m bringing in some dude from Florida to do the actual sharpening…no safety issues here! and you better believe the edges are going to be crisp!
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No knife sharpeners in FL. Those guys just go to “Early Bird Dinners” and play shuffleboard.
Marc
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