Knife Edge
- This topic has 4 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 03/06/2018 at 6:20 am by
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Welcome to the Wicked Edge Forum Michael. Looking at your posted pictures I do see some minor difference. I think you have done a pretty good job with placement, overall. I see two different scratch patterns at the heel, just forward of the sharpening notch. One is at a more acute angle and closer to the shoulder then the knife edge. Reapplying the sharpie after each clamping position change will help you to see more clearly how your doing after each position adjustment. To decrease the amount of steel you’re removing at the curved belly behind the tip you can try to rotate the tip lower while not lowering the heel any. I would reinsert the depth key and rotate the knife while making contact with at least one pin. This will help you to record and recreate the clamping position for future sharpenings.
If you haven’t already done so, please read the pinned post at the top: “How I find the “Sweet Spot”.
When I first try to find the “Sweet Spot” I work with a very fine grit stone, such as 1000 grit or 1500 grit, very light hand pressure and I set the rod angle guides to a very wide or obtuse angle so I am just removing steel from the very edge of the blade. As I adjust and reposition the knife I continuously reapply the sharpie to see right where I’m removing steel. I move the knife edge up or down to place the edge in the position where the sharpie is removed while maintaining contact with depth key whenever possible. I don’t work with the Alignment guide in position. After I have found my best clamping position and I have clamped/locked the knife securely in place, then I’ll insert the key and place the Advanced Alignment Guide in it’s proper position to record the final clamping position.
Marc
(MarcH's Rack-Its)4 users thanked author for this post.
I think if you slide the blade back, tip toward the clamp, about 1 inch or so your bevel will even out. The further from the vise the tip is the wider the bevel will be relative to the drop in the edge toward the tip. If you have trouble clamping in the proper position then moving the tip down is your best option I think. I to have to manipulate the blade to even the bevel. MarcH’s thread on finding the sweet spot is worth taking some time on and understanding the difference the position of the knife makes when sharpening.
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One should also keep in mind that the thickness of the blade at the shoulders of the bevel determines the width of the bevel if the angle is constant. Manufacturers tend to leave the tip a little thicker to give it some added strength against breakage. The photo I have of my 110 shows the bevel width very uniform. I’ve done quite a few 110’s over the last six years or so, and they all have been pretty good as far as thickness is concerned.
Ideally, the curve at the tip should follow an arc described by the sweep of the stone. You move the blade forward or backward as sksharp explains above to match the curve to that arc. You can move the knife to any position that provides that match. The bevel angle will stay constant on a straight edge, no matter how it’s mounted. Curves, however, should be positioned to match the arc of the stone as it leaves that straight line. Of course, that’s not always possible, so you try to find an acceptable compromise.
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That’s a good point TC! Some knives that have a drop and have thick tips can be a challenge to get as even as possible. On some of these moving the tip close to the clamp and maybe a little down will actually sharpen the tip at a more obtuse angle but give you an even bevel.
Sorry for the late response.
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