I own a number of small folders, an assortment of kitchen knives, and I am looking for a productive pastime. I am looking for versatility and I have always preferred a mirrored edge. I can afford any WEPS system currently offered (I’m not rich but I do have a hobby account that I haven’t touched for a while). I just don’t know what to buy or what accessories. So I am looking for some help.
Hello George, there’s a WEPS to fit every need and every budget. To help you decide consider the amount of space you will have to sharpen knives. Will you have a dedicated area with plenty of room to have a sharpening station? A place where your WEPS can sit out all the time, or will you need to put it up, out of the way? Will you be limited in space and need something more compact? Will you sharpen only at home so portability is not important or will you prefer a sharpener that’s more easily dismantled to pack up for travel? Will you sharpen out side or maybe while camping or hunting?
All the WEPS do essentially the same thing and work the same way. The difference is in how you will use it. They range from very simple with only the basic necessities and basic adjustments, (the least expensive), to very complete set-ups with all the attachments, accessories, and are more comprehensive and easily adjustable, (the more expensive). The same abrasive sharpening stone handles are used with all the different models, from the most basic to the most elaborate so whatever you purchase to begin with, will incorporate well with any other setups if you decide to expand or upgrade your WEPS over time.
If you consider these things and maybe share with us a little more details we’ll try to help you pick what will best meet your needs.
Welcome
Space is not a problem. What I am looking for is versatility.
IMO the WE130 is the most versatile sharpener of all of the models. It allows for the widest range of angles, with the highest accuracy and the ability to sharpen the widest knives, and knives with uneven bevels because the left and right rod arm angles are set independently of one another. If you want all the bells and whistles the Pro-Pack III is the way to go. It’s the WE130, including everything for the basic sharpened edge, to what you’ll need for the mirror polished edge. It has a sturdy, heavy base for stability and carry case for portability.
I started with the Pro-Pack II, and have added accessories and upgraded over the years, which converted it into the Pro-Pack III. The Pro-Pack III is the latest, best vice setup already including many of the accessories and upgrades I bought separately and added along the way.
Hello GeorgeH and welcome.
If price is not a factor and your willing to spend the $ I bought the pro pack 3 in march 2017. Since I purchased it they have made several improvements to the sharpener as MarcH stated and it is the same price I paid for it. It is the most versatile and complete offering WE has in my opinion. Comes with most of the “goodies” that you will need. The case that comes with it will blow you away and makes it very portable as well. The reason I went that way was the ability to set each side independently for asymmetrical grinds and the range of angles. I believe it’s the most versatile and complete of the systems. Good luck!
I agree with what MarcH and sksharp have already stated; the WE130 and pro pack 3 are going to be the most versatile setups. The generation 3 pro and commercial series sharpeners will have the advantage when it comes to set up speed, but they can’t as easily handle asymmetrical grinds as the other models.
Yeah, pro-pack 3 sounds like your best bet - get it all at once and the 2017 gen 3 vise is REALLY nice!
Welcome to the forum, George! I think you already got some good advice (both Pro Pack 3 and the Gen 3 Pro are great, but there’s a WEPS for every budget) and if you have more specific questions, I’d happily answer them.
George,
This link may help. I think you will be happy with any of the WE products … I really believe that the most versatile solution would be the WE 120 or Pro Pack II. As far as I am concerned, a lot has to do with the type of knife you will be sharpening the most. There is no debate that the new design jaws on the 130 and Gen 3 are fantastic and the ease of angle adjustment is convenient and very quick. However, when it comes to sharpening small / narrow blades, I find myself using my older WE (similar to what is now the 120/PP II). It just clamps/handles narrow blades so much easier than my Gen3. So, first step would be to evaluate what types of knives you will be sharpening most. If you aren’t going to sharpen many narrow blades … you will be in love with the 130/Gen3.
Hello Dennis, Was wondering why you have trouble with thin(narrow) blades on the gen 3 vise. I use the Low Angle Adapter that comes with the PP3 and haven’t had to much of an issue. I have had to use tormeks small knife adapter on some small case knives and pocket knives of that type but it has not been an issue for me at least. Just wondering if you use a low angle adapter, that should take care of most issues with narrow blades.
I also have the Tormek … just don’t like it very much, as I sometimes have to steady one side of the blade (on a small/narrow/thin blade) to prevent flexing. Considered the low angle adapter … but it kind of defeats the self-centering beauty of the Gen3 jaws. Also, with the limited micro-adjustment, it is sometimes difficult to impossible to match an existing edge bevel when the low angle adapter does not self-center. I find I just get better clamping and better results on a narrow blade using my version 2 … which I why I kept it when I purchased the Gen3. Truth be told, there isn’t a single knife I own that can’t be sharpened perfectly with the old WE … it is just that it takes a good bit longer in the set-up process because of the jaw design. That said, I still think the 120/PP2 provides far more flexibility over a wider range of knives. For me (and my uses), the biggest advantages of the Gen3 are the quicker set-up and quicker angle adjustments when switching to stropping and adding a micro-bevel.
Dennis, have you update your PP2? I too started with the PP2. This year I renewed it with the newest tension adjustable lever cam vice with split jaws, and matching degree bar? Now I have all the preferences from the WE120 with the all new enhancements associated with the Gen 3. With these updates/upgrades it then becomes the WE130. The added advantage, of the WE120/WE130 is the ability to sharpen uneven beveled knives and chisel grinds.
I, 100% agree with the quicker set-up and angle adjustment advantages of the Gen 3.
All good comments, Gents. Like most of us here, I took the upgrade route. I started in 2011 with what is now the WE100, but back then the pivot joints were simple universal joints. I next upgraded to the PP2, which added a riser block, the spherical rod end couplings, longer rods and micro-adjusts. Big step up. Next I bought the Gen 3 vise. Having both vises now, I decided to buy an extra base and now had two rigs, one with the old vise and one with the new. I could switch back and forth easily, depending on the circumstances. Now I have a Gen 3 Pro (2017 version) and I love that too. I use all three systems. Along the way, I added personal touches and gadgets to enhance the experience. Some of the guys here are really creative so there’s no shortage of ideas.
For most people thinking about getting into the “sport”, I think cost will be the driving factor. The Wicked Edge sharpeners are top tier systems and come with an appropriate price tag, so you’ll judge your investment by the commitment you have to the hobby. These are serious knife sharpeners, and any of the versions will produce the same quality of edge. If you think you’d like to jump in with both feet, it’s just a matter of what your budget is. I’m retired and I don’t golf or restore muscle cars and I only shoot a half-dozen rounds of skeet per year, so I can measure the cost of my sharpening entertainment in a few dollars per hour - if that. I love it.
Maybe some confusion here, I have a WE 130 which is exactly the same system as your 120 only with the gen 3 vise. I really don’t understand why you think that the PP2 is more versatile, the PP3 has more of the attachments, and the gen 3 vise plus a great case. The PP2 with the 120 has the same clamping problems as far as centering as does the LAA. With thin flexible blades the centering problem is not an issue with the LAA. I mainly use the tormek for pocket knives (usually multi-blade) that are so tiny I have to move them out and away from the vise to sharpen all though there are some fillet knives that I have used the tomek on. I think your confusing the gen3 pro and the gen 3 vise. The 130 and the 120 have the same exact angle range, independent angle adj., but the 130 has a gen 3 vise and it comes with the PP3 not the PP2. Thanks
No confusion. Glad you are as happy with the 130 as I am with my Gen3 (same vise, different base/adjustment controls). As I said, any WE system will well-serve GeorgeH (the OP). Which is best for him (IMO) is a factor of budget and what types of knives he will be regularly sharpening. My opinions are based on having used the WE systems since very early 2012 (every one since the original with the basic joint arms … to the upgraded ball-joint arms with riser … to the Gen3 (pre-2017 … and with the new 2017 vise). Have used these systems to sharpen virtually every knife in my collection (which primarily consists of pocket knives, with a few fixed blades). While those knives currently number 132, my collection since buying my first WE has numbered close to 300. I still maintain that the most versatile configuration out of the box is the system with the original vise with riser block, combined with the ball-joint arms … which, I guess would be the 120 (or one of its PP configurations). The system which is the quickest to set-up/adjust (and frankly, more pleasurable to use) is the Gen3 . Hope the OP comes back to tell us what his choice was and how he likes the WE. To get an idea of the types of knives I sharpen, you can view my current collection here.
Gotcha Dennis and thanks. I didn’t mean to challenge you, just trying to understand your thinking on this subject. I understand being comfortable with something so I think I understand your position. I purchased my Pro Pack 3 in March 2017 and have done over 200 knives, at last count, mainly for friends and family. Have sharpened only about 25 or so for myself. Most of the ones I’ve done have been inexpensive ranging from hunting, kitchen, edc’s, scissors, chisels, wood carving blades and even a couple sets of blades from paper cutting machines. I have found from the few, more expensive knives I’ve done, that the inexpensive knives have challenged me more than the “good” ones. You have a nice collection of knives and you have experienced more systems than I and have been at this longer so I digress. I agree that $ is a determining factor and I also believe that what ever system is chosen you can get amazing results.
I think the LAA in the older vise can compound the clamping issue as far as putting the knife further off center but if you orient the LAA so the floating side is opposite the floating side of the older style vise it brings the knife back toward center as both clamps use the same clamping system. In my experience using the LAA, in the WE 130 which has the gen 3 vise, it gives me 3 to 7 degrees lower angle to work with without hitting the jaws depending on the knifes profile and allows for a wider range of knives to be sharpened at the angle that I would like to sharpen them at. The LAA also makes getting a better sweet spot easier on larger blades (8 to 10") that are swept, like a chefs knife, because it widens the arc and helps keep the angle more consistent along the entire blade. The smaller drop point blades seem to benefit from a lower height as the arc is smaller or tighter if you will. This is just my “opinion” and not meant to confront anyone else’s opinion.
Hope the issue isn’t confused for you George. Spend what is comfortable for you, consider options and the types of knives that you will be sharpening for the most part. My minimum would be diamond stones 100 thru 1000 and one set of strops either 5/3.5 paste or the 4/2 diamond emulsion on leather or my favorite, kangaroo leather. After that the 1500 stone with 6 or 3 mic. lapping film for the platen side and then an additional set of 1/.5 strops. For me at least the LAA has been a must, but again, this is my opinion. I and several others have stated our opinion and all I can add is if I had to do it all over I would make the same decision. I don’t think you will be disappointed with what ever decision you make. Good luck and happy hunting.
I pulled the trigger and got the pro-pack 3. Amazing product. But how can you tell what the angle setting is without using an angle cube?
When I was setting it up the first time, I put the arms on and noticed you really can’t see the numbers on the bar. I didn’t use the cube that came with the kit but I ended up using another. I used the micro adjustments and it worked great.
I used a small pocket knife that I didn’t like to give it a go. I got it sharper than it was but I know I need some practice. I ordered nine of the cheapest dinner knives from Amazon as my practice fodder.
Any tips about practice?
George ..
I’m sure you will be happy with your WE purchase. The sharpening angle should be marked on the degree bar relative to the dimples in the bar. Keep in mind, however, these are only approximate angles. Actual sharpening angle will be affected height of the blade edge in the vise. If you are going for a specific angle in sharpening … you are always better off using the angle cube to determine the sharpening angle.
Take your time. You’re trying to learn and develop a technique that allows you to maintain a constant even contact between the stone and the knife’s beveled edge. Let the stones do the work. You don’t need to apply a lot of force or pressure. The stones will greatly improve as they get broken in. By my experience the break in period is easily 8-10 knives.
Use your senses. Listen to the scraping sound. Over time you’ll hear the difference in the sound as your reaching your desired results. Feel for the feedback, through the paddles. Again, with time you’ll feel the difference as your reaching the desired results. A handheld jewelers loupe or USB Microscope is a tremendously helpful visual aide I wouldn’t want to do without.
The inscribed angle numbers on the WEPS are just a guide. I always use the Digital Angle Meter to determine the set angle.
Lastly, be very careful. You are working with a sharp exposed edge that will cut you. Orient you sharpening station so you avoid reaching over or across the knives edges. Be aware of your finger tips, dangling down on the expose knife edge. Safety is first.
Hello George, My best advise…take your time and don’t hurry. Learn to hold the stones in a comfortable, consistent position that will keep your fingers out of the way and keeping the stone oriented the same all the way thru each stroke. I agree with MarcH…SAFETY FIRST!!! Thru time you will develop a rhythm that will help your feel and your hearing of the stones against the metal. This will become a big help in determining when it’s time to look at the bevel to determine when to move on in the progression. The markings on the bar are something that I use just for a general starting point and then I gauge everything, every stone, all the way thru. If you don’t want to use the angle gauge on every stone you may find as I did that only 1 or 2 tenths of a change can cause you a lot more time than checking every one all the way thru. With the stones I have there is about 6 tenths of a degree difference from the low end to the high end and changes depending on which way each stone is oriented. I went thru them all and marked them top and bottom, left and right and was only able to get that number down to 2 tenths, still not acceptable for me, and I didn’t want them directional so I gauge each one every progression, every time. This insures me that I’m sharpening at the same relative angle on each stone. Also USE A SHARPIE when profiling at the start and remove it all to insure your bevel is even and all the way down the blade. Good luck George and please ask these folks any question you might have, there are a lot of great ideas that these guys have come up with and is a great resource for me. I’ve learned so much from pretty much all of them. Glad you decided to join are little family!
Steve