I managed to do something… weird with my manix 2, I didn’t get pictures and I have it somewhat sharpened out But basically what happened was my tip gained a belly, it still met at a razor point but it sharply curved upward towards the tip instead of the leaf shape the manix 2 normally has. I’m guessing it has something to do with tip rotation or claim position?
I’d love to see a picture if you have a chance. Maybe you could mark on the photo to show how it was at its worst.
My artistic skills aren’t good enough to draw it how it was, but you can still see the tip angles up more sharply than a normal manix 2.
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It’s hard to tell from the photo. It looks like a positioning issue though without a close-up of the tip it’s hard to be sure. It could also come from rotation of the stones are you reach the tip.
Hows this? If were to guess it seems like the tip needed to angle downwards more or do I have it backwards.
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I think you’re correct. Tilting the tip downward more in the clamp would have helped keep the size of the bevel consistent. I’ll dig up Josh’s video on the subject for reference and post the link.
Here’s Josh’s video:
[center]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2T0wQDHKMR0[/center]
I watched that last night after trying to fix my manix, and that is when it occurred to me. Honestly what seems to happen is it grinds away at the very tip, but leaves a small patch of steel about 1-2mm from the tip, which really confused me how that could happen. But I could visualize that if the tip is too high, it seems like the tip would be ground before the steel around the tip which is exactly what happened.
try keeping more pressure on your thumbs as you approach the tip… don’t let the pressure be on the finger side as much. See if it helps!
I suspect my manix 2 will need sharpening in a few years being s110v 
But I’ll be more careful when I do my domino, honestly thinking of buying the ball joint arms before I do that though, the factory grind line is just so perfect.
Josh, as usual, is right. Such faults at the point are almost always caused by rocking the stones as they fall off the tip. Imagine the continuation of the sweep line of the stones and try to stay on that line for the entire length of the sweep, even past the tip.
Few Years?? You need to cut more stuff man. :evil:
I need to sharpen my zdp-1089 Cali every Month or so, and that is a tad bit harder than the s110V. Or are you one of them folks that carries a different knife every day and have like 50 of them? All the tips mentioned are great. It is more than likely a combination of them all making a difference. Biggest key for me was understanding the sweet spot and where the angles are the same and where and how they change in the geometry of the stones on the arms in respect to the way the blade is mounted in the vise.
This is new to me.. might help..
Maybe this will help also.. The old circle and line being at the same angle talk. the visuals is what helped me the most..
https://knife.wickededgeusa.com/forum/2-welcome-mat/13542-sharpening-the-zt-0900#23240
I just used Josh’s video to sharpen my Spyderco Native 5 Lightweight’s S35VN blade. It worked fabulously. Really easy to set up. And great results.
I’m new and I went slow. But I’m very impressed by the WE. I know I made the right decision to get one.