I just had a new blade installed on a Benchmade 710 McHenry & Williams. I want to fine tune the factory edge (Never knew how crappy a new factory edge was until I found the WEP :P), but I’m not sure how to mount it because it has multiple curves.

I just had a new blade installed on a Benchmade 710 McHenry & Williams. I want to fine tune the factory edge (Never knew how crappy a new factory edge was until I found the WEP :P), but I’m not sure how to mount it because it has multiple curves.

I owned one of these before, but sold it before I put it on the WEPS. There is previous post I started on the same topic, link below. Long story short, the 710 recurve is mild enough to use regular stones. Knives with a more sever recurve may need the curved stones. Disclaimer, I have never sharpened a recurve and don’t own any. I am a Benchmade nut though. Hopefully others will chime in here.
710 Post Here:
Thanks. So I just try the sharpie and finest stone process to set the mounting position?
I called BM and asked them what angle the edge is and was told that it is 15-17. I’m thinking I should set up for 17.
I’ve done a couple of well-used knives that had curves similar to your photo. But they weren’t factory curves - just had accumulated the profile over years of resharpening and not getting the same metal removal near the heel. If you’re careful not to put excess pressure on the edges of the stones as they move across the inside curve, you should be OK.
I just sharpened one of these recently: an Aaron Frederick SMK-2

I just mounted it in the vise very slightly forward of center and then tilted the tip up ever so slightly so that the radius motion of the stones would be perpendicular to the main curve of the belly/tip, see this video for further explanation:
Thanks. Did you adjust any differently to get the curve at the base?
Josh,
Great tip with the tape!
I’d be very surprised if the 710 came from the factory with a 15-17 degree edge as most every Benchmade I’ve ever received was north of 20. I’ve had a 710 for awhile, but actually have never sharpened it but am glad to hear that the stock stones will work for the recurve, which they should because it’s a pretty mild recurve.
I’ve not tried to mount this one, but I was considering possibly removing the blade from the handles to sharpen as (if memory serves me correctly) the heel goes back pretty close to the handle. Good luck and be sure to post your results. ![]()
I took a 710 apart before and remember that is was a PITA to put back together.
sorry I missed this! no, I just sharpened like normal! you just have to give a little more care at the very base of your edge near the handle… but it’s not hard.
it should just be a basic disassembling/reassembling of a normal benchmade knife… if so, then this video may help…
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SHMWDN5evDg
also, you will probably have to remove the thumb stud. To do this find some semi-thick leather (like 1/8" thick) and wrap it around the stud on each side (if it is the screw on type). then you can grip each side with pliers and unscrew. this is the only way I have found that will not damage the thumb studs.
So you only postioned it once and did the entire edge?
After shaving a few thumb studs, even through the tape I now take them off. For Benchmade you need 2 - Torx T6 drivers. They are not that tight.
Here is good video on how to disassemble/assemble Benchmades. He is putting custom scales on but it is the same.
Video Link
A few tips:
Disassembly: Remove the pivot screw almost, then pull back on the axis lock to remove all the way.
Assembly: loosely assemble all scale/back spacer screws. Put the pivot screw in one side, pull back on the axis lock to install first washer. Then the blade, last washer. The key is the washer + blade will only line up 99% without pulling back on the axis lock. You have to pull it back to get them in. Tighten pivot screw snug, with paper shims to center blade. Tighten up all other screws.
yessir!