Belt sander/grinder/sharpener

Not sure what they are called.. see them in videos of knife sharpeners.. would like to buy something I can use to fix tips, fix the bolster as well as other non knife uses. Want something versatile that I can get belts for and won’t take up a lot of room. won’t get used much and will probably look to buy used

 

Airscapes, are you thinking of something made by Worksharp?

I have no clue, it is like a 1.5" or so belt sander, something like what this guy is using.. https://youtu.be/oRWjeDiLw_c Maybe not as large as I am limited on flat surfaces and places where things can free stand.. too much stuff already but I need more!

Check out : https://www.harborfreight.com/1-in-x-30-in-belt-sander-61728.html?_br_psugg_q=belt+sander

It’s cheap but you get what you pay for. For the light touch up jobs you suggest it’ll probably be sufficient. It’s a little too narrow for edge grinding.

For that I’d look to: Central Macinary 4" X 36"

Both machines are light duty, inexpensive and lack features like variable speed seen it better price point models.

 

Airscapes,

Below is a well written article on belt/grinder sharpening. It’s a long detailed article so I posted the conclusions for those who want the CliffsNotes.

I have 1X42 Kalamazoo belt sharpener that sees very little use. Even using a knife rest, I just cannot get a nice even bevel or an evenly sharpened knife. When I have a knife that has significant edge damage I use a WEN and the Kally. Once the edge is uniform, I then use the WE to do the sharpening.

The knives in the pictures were “fixed” using the WEN sander. The gentleman was very happy with the result but I probably did over heat the edges.

Ed K.

Summary and Conclusions

Knife edges are easily overheated during powered grinding due to the small volume of the edge and the friction buildup from grinding. This softens the edge and worsens edge retention. The use of steels capable of high temperatuhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D4aFy3tRpI4re tempering treatments help to some extent since they can withstand more heat. Hand sharpening or water cooled sharpening are the best methods for preventing overheating of edges.

https://knifesteelnerds.com/2019/04/08/does-sharpening-with-a-grinder-ruin-your-edge/

 

There’s also this one:

http://amktactical.com/AMK-75-1x30-Knife-Sharpener

 

I just ordered a Dewalt DW-756 6" bench grinder with a 5/8 HP motor. I also went with the Razor Sharp Edgemaking 8" Deluxe Blade Sharpening Kit. Everything was under $200 bucks. Got awesome reviews.

I had the same need for a reasonably cheap grinder to fix chips, tips, bolsters, thinning, polishing, etc before going to WEPS for fine tune edging. I wanted flexibility and variable speed. Viel and the like started at $300 & up (way up). That wasn’t for me as a garage once in a while sharpener. If I was trying to make $$, then I understand investment.

So after a bunch of Google help, I found a $75 solution, it takes a HF 1×30, throw out the motor and get yourself a treadmill motor (DC, variable speed, reversible, high torque/low speed). Pretty much every other house in America has one and most are not used. Plenty of people give them away and the motor +electronics (important) are easy to rip out. It takes some reasonably straight forward wiring, mounting, redrilling, etc but is very doable.

You end up with a 1×30, DC, variable speed, reversible, vertical or horizontal setup for $75. I’ve even used it to remove serrations. As a bonus, there is a second output shaft for a buffer.

I am not the first and definitely not the last.


A vidInShot_20190713_211824059.mp4

Check out Cliff Curry’s Youtube videos. He’s done a ton of mods for a bunch of HF 1X30’s he has. He’s CurryCustomCutlery here on the forum as well as on Youtube as Curry Custom Cutlery.

That was very helpful! The more I watch the more I just want to go buy a quality machine and be done and happy. After googling the WEN and Rikon It looks like they are all set up for wood working with tables. I don’t see that sharpening guide in any of the literature, is that an after market part or something custom?

 

Got a Free Treadmill, or at least an offer to come and get it!

I think this is what you’re looking for: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HVXFP80/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[quote quote=51081]

I think this is what you’re looking for: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HVXFP80/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1[/quote]

HA! Almost as much as the machine! :slight_smile: But probably the most important part for me to have! No way in this old green earth I can hold something at the same angle for more than 2 seconds when using a belt or wheel..

Thanks for the link!

 

I have one of the guides, but to tell the truth, I think I could do as well with a small wedge of wood to give me an idea of what the right angle to start with looks like.

Another note: If the knife has angles ground onto the sides, you should take these into account when choosing the angle for your guide. For instance, if there’s a 6 degree displacement from one side of the knife to the other, deduct three degrees from the angle guide setting. This is especially important if you are grinding a new bevel profile on a damaged knife to prep it for finishing on your WEPS. If you’re planning to finish the edge on the belt sander, 3 degrees probably won’t matter.

Well got my threadmill and have it apart enough to see I have what I need. Once I get the motor and electronics ripped out and functional on the bench I guess it will be time go buy a HF belt sander. Felt bad ripping apart a functional treadmill but it was not being used so at least part of it will be used! Scrap guys will get something for the rest of it..

Must be older than RedHeads as everything seems bigger in the electronics end.. but beggars can’t be choosers..

Back to the motor search, this one was just a bit too big for the HF. In the mean time I 3d Modeled the drive wheel of the HF since the original was molded and not very well round. Not sure how it will hold up as it is ABS and more slippery than the molded wheel. Could not stall it with 1" bar stock and a good bit of pressure, so should be great for what I want to do. There is still some runout will put a DI on the shaft to see if it is shaft or wheel. At least if I do find a TM motor, it will be very simple to change the shaft size in the model and reprint. If anyone needs a rounder wheel for their machine let me know.

New Wheel running

I’m enjoying seeing the process of the conversion, but that looks like tons of work.

For the amount of effort it takes to modify a Harbor Freight belt sander into a suitable sharpening platform I’d gladly just pay more for one of the name brand setups that’s ready to go out of the box. I’m lazy.

Like airscapes, I sometimes embark on projects more for the journey than the destination.

Yup, I have no knives sitting in need of sharpening, so leaning how to model this wheel was useful to me. Learning about the motor in a treadmill and how it is controlled and wired is interesting to me. My first career from 1984-95 was an automotive repair tech (mechanic) so I like to rip apart things, fix things and fabricate things.. Personally prefer modification and improvement of things most of all. Yes, I almost just bought the quality machine but needed something to occupy my mind and hands, so went for the Frankenstein method. :slight_smile: