I happen to be in @Organic’s camp due to lack of time and an acute lack of mechanical talent. I do have a Work Sharp Ken Onion contraption and plan on using it for re-configuring edges/profiles, that is if I ever find the blasted thing after the move.
I will have an update by the end of the day tomorrow, made great progress with some help from Redheads!
You have heard the saying; “It not the destination but the journey”.. it like that!
Nice work!
Nice cheap setup Reedheads. I wish I had this setup when I converted an old serrated bread knife to a smooth edged utility knife. Took me many hours and wasted stone wear so much so I just had to re-order the 100/200 stone set. Next time I pull out my 75 year old bench grinder for projects where I have to remove a lot of steel or repair a chip by re-profiling.
I’ll go a little bit off the belt sander path to announce that I’ve just purchased a low-speed (1800 rpm) bench grinder, as I had a need to grind wood plane irons and chisels more accurately in prep for sharpening on my WEPS w/ chisel adapter.
I chose 1800 rpm so as to reduce the chance of over-heating edges. I got the RIKON rig on sale at Woodcraft for $110. They had been on sale at Rockler the previous week for $100, but I failed to pull the trigger in time. With either supplier, I qualified for free shipping. The Rikon comes with white wheels; one fine, one coarser.
Holding chisels and plane irons for straight, cross-direction grinding requires some sort of rig. I bought a blade holder made by Veritas - an excellent woodworking tool maker, but tried to get by with a home made jig, but wasn’t happy with it. Then I found a complete rig for $33 on Amazon. Made in China, of course. I was quite pleased with it, but still decided to make a few mods to increase its robustness, which worked out very well. Then I made a maple version of the mounting base, so I can switch from side to side. Am considering a second rig so I don’t have to make adjustments with the switch. For $33??
If there’s interest, I’ll be glad to share details.
Keep it all in one thread! Please share!
I will be posting some pics of the finished belt sander when I finish it later this morning 
Looks great
Thanks, and thanks for your help and encouragement to follow this path! I did not add the buffer wheel like you had done, have another Treadmill and plan to build a free standing buffing station with the steel from the 2 treadmills. Was thinking I would use both motors mounted on the same stand with a single speed control and switch left right switch… something to do once the fall arrives! Probably should start looking for a 3rd Treadmill .. Drill press could stand a variable speed update!
Added these 3D printed tools, T-handle to tighten adjuster slide and a Bolt stop to hold the head, can put ratchet and wrench away!
I don’t remember what if any mod I made to the adjuster, but I don’t use a tool to change belts. I pinch the adjustment bracket, with my thumb at the front-facing part of the frame and the back of the adjuster, This moves the rear pulley forward, letting me slip the belt over the top pulley.
I think with a heavier spring it would not need to be tightened as I am doing. The other thing that is different about mine is the Drive wheel is ABS 3d Printed so less friction to grip the belt. I should probably find a semi soft filament and spin up another that is not so slippery. Doesn’t help I sanded the wheel with it running to get it as true as possible. Just used this last night to take a buster down on a knife that probably should be tossed out and it turned out very nice using the 800 grit belt .. Took a while but looks really good considering it was a 1/4 long or more. I took it down a bit father after this photo was taken but kept hitting the handle with the belt so stopped.. After I touched up the edge on the WE I presented it my wife with some Game of Thrones humor..
“Here you go Arya, Needle is ready for use again, stickem with the pointy end!”