A question about VG-10 Steel

Hi,
I didn’t see anything like this anywhere…so here goes. (I just guessed ata category)
I’ve got 3 different companies knives, all claiming to be VG-10 at the edge. In profile, they are all kitchen knives, Shun, Calphalon (sp?) and one from AG Russell.
Interestingly enough, I sharpen them all the same, and they retain the edge COMPLETELY differently.
So my question (I think) is there wide variance in VG-10 steel, like you’d find in say 1095?
Call me curious.

"question with a sebenza.."Oh, man,.. you are prying open the lid on pandoras’ box.. last time I got near this subject the topic ran on for days.. see:

the towards .1 micron Forum..Although there are many knowledgable “steel junkies” that hang around this forum, i would suggest you also cross post your above “curious” to Cliff at:

[quote quote=“FredHermann” post=5084]Hi,
I didn’t see anything like this anywhere…so here goes. (I just guessed ata category)
I’ve got 3 different companies knives, all claiming to be VG-10 at the edge. In profile, they are all kitchen knives, Shun, Calphalon (sp?) and one from AG Russell.
Interestingly enough, I sharpen them all the same, and they retain the edge COMPLETELY differently.
So my question (I think) is there wide variance in VG-10 steel, like you’d find in say 1095?
Call me curious.[/quote]

The heat treat can make a huge difference.

So yes, VG-10 from different companies can vary a lot.

Correct me if I’m wrong, but I believe the Cephalon Katana series is VG1 not VG10.
And like others said the heat treat makes a huge difference in the performance of the metal.

All of them say they are RC 61-63, but wow are they different.
But thanks, it’s good to have you confirm my suspicions.

Every VG-10 I do is a new experience.
Caphalon’s VG-1 not so happy with. Very bad choice for things that touch water.
No matter how many times I tell clients “hand wash right after use, hand dry, put away” …
Loop them and you’ll see pitting and chipping, especially if they are not taken care of.
Have seen similar pitting though not as bad on Shun VG-10s.
Also, the acute angle of Shuns, IMHO, VG-10 not a great choice for it. Like I’ve said before got to be delicate with them, chippy, and don’t dare drop them on a ceramic floor :slight_smile:

Hey David, you’re right. All this time I had thought they were vg-10. Well at least that mystery can be solved. I swear one of these days I’ll actually read the d@#m directions. This also explains the fact they rust if you look at them crosseyed.
My apologies. Now to really look these up…

I actually just got my hands on my first VG-10 blade, by way of a customer here at the shop. Now that I have the WEPS kit I’m always getting customers and friends to find a solid carry knife that fits their needs, or just add another neat design to the collection :slight_smile:

This SOG Toothlock is VG-10, and has a fun recurved shape that isn’t quite drastic enough to require the curved ceramics (which I do not have… yet!) so I was able to retouch the unimpressive factory edge.

Haven’t gotten to use it especially hard but I suspect the less acute angle compared to some of the other knives mentioned here will hold up far better for general utility cutting. Sharpened up well, at least!

VG 10 steel does sharpen up really nicely, but it does do better with less acute angles IMO because in my experience, it can chip and fracture slightly on very thin edges. I think it may vary with the VG10 and the heat treatment given. I give my Fred Perrin Street Beat blade an edge of 20 degrees per side in place of the 15 degrees I used to use and I found much less in the way of damaged edges.
My 2 cents worth.

Cheers
Leo