Well, if the marker is being taken off entirely, then your bevel should be set. While I’m new here, I can offer my experience that carried over from the Edge Pro to the Wicked Edge, and it seems to work. I don’t usually go all the way down to the 100 grit unless it’s a really hardy steel or I need to really reset a bevel. The 200 & 400 remove enough metal, especially new, to do the job on a standard steel. Well, what I would assume is a standard steel like 440C or 154CM.
Anyway, checking for the burr at the lower to medium grits I’ve found is a bit crucial, and taking your time with keeping your technique consistent will ensure that after you’ve apexed the edge you will continue to do so up through the grits.
Personally, I don’t really count strokes anymore. You’ll get a feel for how the scratch pattern feels under the stones as you pass over the edge. Alternating strokes until you’ve set that grit into the metal is my standard practice. Knocking off the burr with light pressure as well, at the final grit, I feel is also important.
I often only go up to 1000 grit, and while the edge is sticky sharp, it doesn’t do the magical phone book paper slicing thing until I refine it on the strops for a decent amount.
My condense advice is that you don’t need to go all the way down to the 100 grit and remove more metal than you need to. Check the edge with marker again, and then keep consistent through the grits. Use only light pressure to avoid excess metal removal and uneven passes. Take your time, and then strop until your edge is refined.
You’ll get it with a bit more practice. It just comes to you eventually. 😀
