Joey

[Joey]

Think this is all on the grit comparison chart under the resources tab.

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[Joey]

Small is now on eBay… http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=141105845388

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[Joey]

I’ve always wondered about how to fully remove a burr and bluntcuts method seems to makes sense.

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[Joey]

Sorry bout that. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YEzUYSCojjw&feature=youtube_gdata_player

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[Joey]

I don’t have any experience actually etching a blade, but I do have an acid stonewashed blade (see my alias for sale here)…Personally I haven’t noticed any ill effects. Seems like it would take quite a bit of negligence to mess the process up…
Heres a pretty good video on the process…It has a good bit of extra entertainment (if you see it that way) but, the process is covered pretty well.

[Joey]

Nice…Now if only I could get out this apartment and into a house with a garage I could build something like this.

[Joey]

I think I have been good enough this year that if there were a sale on the pro-pack II upgrade kit and strops, Santa might have them under the tree come Christmas morning. :whistle:

[Joey]

The google search and checking out razorsedge’s website was helpful. I don’t plan to make this any kind of business but, still wanted to see how others handled the wide variety of blades out there. Most of what I will do will be for family, friends and maybe friends of friends. I’m not at all desperate for money, I get paid quite well at my job so this is more of a hobby/favor for some family and friends. I would however like to recoup some of the cost of the WE. The competition is literally none in about a 100 mile radius other than some machine shops doing industrial cutters (mills, reamers, etc..) and some saw shops doing band saw blades and other saw mill cutters. If I wanted to set-up shop I would have a locally monopoly. Cost of living in my area is higher than the surrounding areas but on a national level probably falls closer to the middle somewhere.

As for learning on other peoples knives…I have now sharpened 10 knives with the WE and while I don’t claim to know everything but, I will say I learned a quite a bit from them. I own and have used my WE to sharpen all those knife types with the exception of a Japanese knife. Honestly I don’t expect to run into anything too odd and if I do, I have no problem turning away a knife I don’t think I can tackle properly. I only plan to sharpen plain edge knives, no serrations (yet anyway, don’t have the proper equip.), no swords, machetes or Karl’s “Sling Blade”…

I think I’m leaning more towards a $1.50 per inch pricing scheme with a $5 minimum per knife and $2 minimum per blade on multi-bladed knives.

[Joey]

There are several definitions out there of the word and times when the true value can be known or accepted as true but, as you say it may be best to just let sleeping dogs lie. Didn’t realize this thread was so old, was doing some research into the angle cube and considering my options when I found this thread. :silly:

The Angle cube test is definitely interesting. I would have expected it to push the limits of their published specs a little more than what you found.

[Joey]

….(This sort of raises the question of “how accurate is accurate?” but that’s probably for another day and another thread!)
-Pie

Bah. Easy Peasy. Why wait.
Always know that accuracy is a qualitative term, not quantitative. So, very accurate, quite accurate, good-enough-for-government-work accurate, and this-thing-ain’t-worth-a-crap-because-every-time-I-lay-it-up-against-my-knife-it-changes accurate and so forth are all accuracy statements. Period. No numbers required.
Precision, error, repeatability and reproducibility, on the other hand, are all quantitative terms and are expressed numerically.
So the question we really want to ask is: “How much error can I tolerate?”
See? Easy Peasy.
:silly:[/quote]

Accuracy is a qualitative term when used in that manor, but it is not by definition a qualitative term. Accuracy is a quantitative term when described properly. Accuracy refers to how close a quantity (measurement, count, etc.) is to it’s true value and it can be expressed numerically just as precision, error, repeatability and reproducibility. For instance if a thing is known to be 10 units in length and I measure it to be 11 units my accuracy is 11-10= 1 units when expressed with absolute deviation. I could also express the same accuracy in relative deviation by stating that my accuracy is (11-10)/(10)=0.1 or 1% relative deviation. There are two problems at work here, the first and most fundamental problem is that often times the true value is not known. The second problem is how the terms are used. Many people don’t fully understand the terms and miss use them frequently.

An easy way to test the accuracy of your angle cube is to attach the cube to a bubble level and align the level in a horizontal or vertical position using the levels bubble. The cube should then be zeroed and the orientation of the level changed by 90 degrees(aligned again with the bubble). Any deviation from 90 (or the divisions of 90 depending on orientation of the cube) displayed on the cube can be used to describe the angle cubes accuracy. However, there are some problems with this method that lead to error. Mainly being the accuracy and precision of the level itself. Doesn’t do much good to compute the accuracy of a tool if your aren’t actually comparing it to the “true” value. I’m not sure how accurate a bubble level really is but, my guess is that its pretty good (coming full circle with the qualitative use here..lol) and if used correctly should be good enough (see how easy it is to qualitatively describe accuracy) for testing an angle cube.

To test the precision just simply place the cube in the same exact spot repeatably and note the different readings. Again there are some problems with this method that lead to error but, that’s another lengthy discussion about repeatability and a whole other mess of errors that go way beyond what is needed here.

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