Jim Mitchell

[Jim Mitchell]

Tuffy..
Just curious, what are you charging per (standard sharpening) blade..?
If you would rather PM me on that.. please do.

BTW, don’t worry… they can dull them faster than you can sharpen them..
:ohmy:

That would be great info to know. Please PM me as well if you don’t mind. Thanks Tuffy!

[Jim Mitchell]

If you sharpen at an event/show, do you keep a log book with the customer’s name and specific details for their knife (Top/Bottom depth key holes, measurement from alignment guide, angle of edge, etc) for returning customers?

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i have not at the fare, but i do on all that i bring home…..i am going to start maybe, but most just drop off and leave their knives – most do not even ask price – it is like…OH BOY a knife sharpener again…….last year they had another fellow and he only came every other sat, so now they are as happy as i am…. 🙂 🙂

i downloaded two from here and ended up using the one that says – wicked edge log – i changed it some to match the way i like to do excel.

it is a nice log whomever set it up by the way.[/quote]
Thanks Tuffy. Good info and nice videos. “It’s a Wicked Edge Kind of Day.” Love it!

[Jim Mitchell]

I have a three ring binder that I keep… for my knives, those of friends… or ones that I think I will see again.

Obviously, the bulk of the knives are done on the belt grinder… nothing on them.. That method is pretty much seat of the pants anyway!!
:woohoo:

Like Curtis, I kind of suck at “good” record keeping. When I remember I write down the basics.
Height gauge settings, length, angle, progression start and finish, type of knife and steel type when I know or can find it…

Doing that has saved my butt a few times and I am trying to get better at recording things consistently.
It is much quicker to know where to start and not have to mess with sharpies and angle finding exercises.

🙂

Thanks Phil. I completely agree. I like to keep a record of each knife’s settings so I know where to begin with it. I’ve only sharpened knives for friends and family so far. I have a little notebook on my bench next to the WEPS and write down just a few notes on each one. I think I will try the Wicked Edge Log, that Tuffy mentioned, or something like it.

And I’ve never tried to sharpen a knife on a belt grinder. I’m sure it takes lots of practice and many years of experience to become proficient with a belt grinder. Thanks again!

[Jim Mitchell]

If you sharpen at an event/show, do you keep a log book with the customer’s name and specific details for their knife (Top/Bottom depth key holes, measurement from alignment guide, angle of edge, etc) for returning customers?

I haven’t done shows… but knives I sharpen for others I don’t keep track for a few reasons….. one, I suck at keeping records :), but I can usually just mark and check a blade probably as quick as I could look it up. (I also noticed that most returning blades need more than a touch-up anyways.)

I did notice when I saw Bob Nash sharpening at a knife show… he handed them a business card where he had boxes printed for the settings he used, that he wrote them in. Would be interesting to know the “return rate” of knives, and if they still had the card.

Interesting to see what others do.[/quote]
Lol! I hear you on the record keeping!

That’s a great idea Bob Nash had using the backs of business cards. Maybe Bob will see this an let us know what his experience is with returning customers and if they still had the business card with the specific settings. Thanks!

[Jim Mitchell]

If you sharpen at an event/show, do you keep a log book with the customer’s name and specific details for their knife (Top/Bottom depth key holes, measurement from alignment guide, angle of edge, etc) for returning customers?

[Jim Mitchell]

Will do. Thanks Phil!

Clay posted that he uses his laether to the point that it is real ugly, only changing it if he was going to a show.
I agree, and the compounds last a really long time. Add a bit when you are not getting the results that you want. I have used mine when they have major slits and are pretty black. They just work.

I say, mess with them when you find the efficiency dropping off… you will be able to tell !!

Phil

I’m glad you brought this up. I was wondering at what point should the leather be changed out? I have the 5/3.5 and the 1/.5 strops and a couple of them are very dirty (black in color). Should I continue to add more diamond past to them?

Thanks!

[/quote]

[Jim Mitchell]

I’m glad you brought this up. I was wondering at what point should the leather be changed out? I have the 5/3.5 and the 1/.5 strops and a couple of them are very dirty (black in color). Should I continue to add more diamond past to them?

Thanks!

[Jim Mitchell]

Thanks Clay!

Thanks for bringing this up guys! Now that I’m in the office and looking at the new iteration of the joints from the prototypes I’ve been using, I see the difference. I’m working fast and furiously today to get the new base rods designed and I’ll get the drawings off to the machine shop today.

[Jim Mitchell]

Thanks Phil.

I really appreciate your input on this and I know exactly what you’re talking about. That’s a great idea to turn the bar around and file down the screws and I will definately try it out.

Thanks again,
Jim

Jim,
Just a thought on using the machines dimples on the base (angle) bar. I think if you check the forume you will find that many do not use them at all. In my case I reversed the bar so the smooth side is facing me. I filed the screws used to tighten the slider flat on the ends. They tighten up and stay tight ( no bracket movement). In addition, doing this allows for fractional degree settings much more easily. I know that the angle adjuster on the new arms allows this sort of fine adjustment, but has its limitations as to the amount you can adjust. I use lots of different stones with widely varying thicknesses. Sometimes, trying to set the slider adjustment using an indent just does not give enough travel to allow me to adjust for the difference stones. Using the smooth side I can set a base setting that allows me to not have to move the main slider again, but still accomodate all of my stones using just the fine angle adjustment feature. I am just trying to point out that you do not have to be dependent on using the indents. In some cases, doing so can actually be a liability, rather than an advantage. Just flattening the screws and maybe putting a little purple locktite on the screws will give you plenty of security against the adjustment moving.

Phil

[Jim Mitchell]

Thanks Clay. I am looking forward to receiving one of the longer angle bars. Do you have an ETA on them? Once I receive it, I will take more photos and report the results back to you.

I re-calibrated my angle cube and used a square to confirm it is reading accurately. I really believe the longer angle bar will take care of the issue. If you can have the indents along the entire side of the angle bar to allow for a wide range of angles, that would be great. It will also help keep the arm brackets securely in place.

Thanks again,
Jim

Hi Jim,

It’s not the angle bracket causing the difference. I’ll post pictures with brackets like you have. I’m pretty sure it’s your angle cube because both brackets have the same geometry meaning that the pivot point is the same relative to the knife. That said, I am getting ready to make a run of longer angle bars and get one to you once their ready. The riser in the new set does lower the angle, buy only by 2 degrees on average and pivot points still have the same relationship they’ve always had. You might be able to calculate your angles by measuring the distance from the center of the vise to the pivot point i.e. the center of the ball joint and then the height of the edge of the knife from the same elevation as the center of the pivot point.

Clay,

Take a look at the photo comparison Billabong posted. There seems to be a difference in your arm brackets and mine. It appears that yours are longer on the bottom, allowing for wider angles. I’m sure this is where the difference in angles is coming from.

Was the upgrade I received last week was supposed to have the longer brackets as shown in your photos?

I think either replacing the brackets or making a longer angle bar would solve the problem. I hesitate to go out beyond the small indents on the angle bar because the bracket screws don’t feel like they’re “biting” into the aluminum bar and could easily become loose. Whereas, with the indents, the bracket screws feel very secure and the brackets don’t loosen up as easy.

Have you thought about making a longer angle bar with indents along the entire side to accommodate a wider range of angles as well as keeping the bracket screws tight and secure?

I’d be happy to use the same angle brackets that you’re using and/or try a longer angle bar.

Thank you.

Jim

[/quote]

[Jim Mitchell]

Clay,

It’s hard to tell angles and distances by looking at pictures.
But I’m thinking you want the two arrows to be the same length? (to ball pivot centres)

I see you have added some more angle holes on the bar. (16 vs 19+)

Appreciate you letting us in on the development/improvement of the WEPS.

Thanks Billabong. I thought I noticed a difference in the angle bar but wasn’t sure. I’m sure the issue will be resolved with a longer angle bar and several more indents (angle holes for the screws).

[Jim Mitchell]

Clay,

Take a look at the photo comparison Billabong posted. There seems to be a difference in your arm brackets and mine. It appears that yours are longer on the bottom, allowing for wider angles. I’m sure this is where the difference in angles is coming from.

Was the upgrade I received last week was supposed to have the longer brackets as shown in your photos?

I think either replacing the brackets or making a longer angle bar would solve the problem. I hesitate to go out beyond the small indents on the angle bar because the bracket screws don’t feel like they’re “biting” into the aluminum bar and could easily become loose. Whereas, with the indents, the bracket screws feel very secure and the brackets don’t loosen up as easy.

Have you thought about making a longer angle bar with indents along the entire side to accommodate a wider range of angles as well as keeping the bracket screws tight and secure?

I’d be happy to use the same angle brackets that you’re using and/or try a longer angle bar.

Thank you.

Jim

[Jim Mitchell]

Clay seems to be using a different angle bracket, allows a greater distance out?

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n34/chrisbillabong/Bracket.jpg%5B/quote%5D

Thank you Billabong! Those pictures show a noticeable difference in the brackets and that is most likely where the shortage is coming from. Thanks again for picking up on that and posting!

Jim

[Jim Mitchell]

Clay,

I couldn’t get the photos to load in the post so I have attached a link that will hopefully work. The 23.70 degree angle is at a setting of 30 degrees on the bar. The 26.65 degree angle is with the collar all the way out to the end of the bar.

https://picasaweb.google.com/105745338258426174805/WEPSAngleCube?authkey=Gv1sRgCK2Lg8rG88K9FQ#

[Jim Mitchell]

Clay,

Thank you checking your set up and sending the photos. I re-calibrated my angle cube following the step by step directions that came with it in the box. The re-calibration worked great; however, my readings on the angle cube are still off by quite a bit.

Here is a photo of my Kershaw Needs Work using the lower set of alignment holes at a setting of 30 degrees.

[attachment:1]DSC_0005-001.JPG[/attachment]

Here is a photo of my Kershaw Needs Work using the lower set of alignment holes with the collar moved out to the end of the bar.

[attachment:2]DSC_0003-001.JPG[/attachment]

I’m confused as to why the reading on my angle cube are so far off from the readings you’re obtaining on your angle cube. Maybe you can tell, by looking at my photos, if I’m doing something wrong.

Thank you for all of your assistance in resolving this issue.

Jim

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